How much does it cost to replace a torque converter?
More, probably, than you think it should. The torque converter itself is relatively inexpensive, but the labor is extensive; either the engine or the transmission (or both) needs to be completely removed from the vehicle to get that job done. The job is far less expensive for a rear-wheel-drive vehicle than for front-wheel-drive or four-wheel drive because the transmission can relatively easily be removed far enough to replace the torque converter while the vehicle is on a split four-point lift or up on jack stands.There's also one hidden cost: If the torque converter gets replaced, then the entire transmission and its cooler should be thoroughly flushed and the filter replaced.As long as the transmission is out, it may well be worth doing to rebuild it at the same time; this saves on removal / reinstallation labor costs. If the torque converter has failed, the transmission itself is probably nearly due for a rebuild anyway.
What happens if I overfill my power steering fluid?
Most modern power steering system has a pressure relief built into it. Most are in the cap. The fluid will expand with heat and the pressure relief will let it over flow out of the system. Then you have a mess. That’s it. No harm done. To the system at least, but not good for the environment.
Transmissions that will fit a 2007 Uplander with a 3.9L engine?
I have a 2007 Uplander Cargo mini-van with a 3.9L engine. I bought this van cheap as it has a bad transmission. When I went looking for a used transmission everyone says that ONLY a 2007 year will work in my van, but when I look at rebuild kits for the van they say that my van has the same transmission from 2005 to 2008? which is a 4T65-E I have found a low mileage transmission in a 2005 Uplander with a 3.5L engine but I am concerned that it wont work. I need someone who know about transmissions to help me out.......thanks.
How much does it cost to replace a tie rod?
As with many of the More Useful Answers already left here (some are just snide remarks from people who feel better about themselves when talking down to others!) it really depends on the vehicle & the specific part in question.There are “Tie-Rods” & “Tie-Rod Ends”, then there are Inner & Outer Ends, also Left & Right. So, you must know which component needs to be replaced. Once you have established which one you need, most retail auto parts supply stores have online websites to assist you with the part lookup.If you are mechanically-inclined, you should be able to replace the part yourself, come away from the job with a sense of accomplishment & some extra coin in your pocket! Of course there will be Tools required, Direction & your Time. (Purchase a Haynes or Chilton’s Service Manual for your vehicle… there are also Videos Online to assist you visually.)Unless there has been Physical Damage (Car Accident, Curb Collision) & your vehicle steering is out of alignment, requiring Alignment Service at a Repair Shop, you can avoid this added expense if you make the repairs yourself; When I am replacing a Tie-Rod End on a vehicle which is within Alignment Standards for Steering & Tracking, I clean the threaded areas of the rod with a Wire Brush to remove any buildup or corrosion, then apply a light coat of Aerosol Spray Paint to the area. Once dry, I will remove the part to be replaced, leaving a definite line so I know the reassembly limit for the new component. With everything reconnected & properly torqued, job is complete & no alignment is required.Bottom Line: Unless you are working on an Exotic (Ferrari, Porsche, Rolls/Bentley, BMW, etc) a single Outer Tie-Rod End should cost you no more than $40. Most newer cars have Power-Assist Steering Racks & the Inner Tie-Rods are contained within the Steering Rack, making it much more expensive & labor-intensive, meaning it should be replaced by a shop unless you are an accomplished technician.Best of luck, I hope this is helpful!
Why do you have to change a car's alternator when changing the battery?
Well, three possibilities here.One. You alternator failed, killing the battery. Replace the battery, test the alternator. You can't test an alternator with a failed battery. Start the car with the new battery, voltage should go up from 12.5ish to 13–14 volt range.Rev the engine slightly (2500–3000 rpm). Turn on all the electricals, lights, air conditioning, etc. If the voltage drops below 12.8 for more than a second, look at replacing the alternator. It should spring back to 13ish.Often alternators will have a modular regulator. Most parts shops can test and determine if the alternator itself is blown, or if it's just the regulator. The brushes may be gone, and are sometimes integral to the regulator. Either way, it's cheaper than a full alternator.If the alternator is bad — doesn't make voltage; or is weak — doesn't hold voltage: then fix or replace it with the battery.Check the feed cables and battery connections on the off chance they're bad. You should do this regardless.Two. This is a low probability. Your battery failed, killing the alternator. This can happen in the case I forget a dead short in one of the cells of the battery, or a near total loss of liquid in your battery. Either way the battery case will likely be distorted, or even cracked. It will have a voltage less than 9. It may even stink of rotten eggs, with a slight taste of chewing on foil.Three. Your mechanic is a liar and a thief who's trying to get more money out of your pocket and into his. If he says that you have to replace the alternator because the battery is bad, this is the case.
The steering wheel is not locked, but the key won't turn. What could be the issue?
Only one of two issues assuming the correct key is being used. Either the lock is defective i.e. wafer (tumbler) out of place, or transmission shift interlock cable not fully in Park. On occasion I have run into both situations.Correction for the lock is to have a locksmith come out and inspect the lock. There have been times that the ignition lock has to be drilled out and replaced.As for the interlock cable, physically make sure the transmission shit lever is truly in Park. Adjusting the lever might surprise you because now the lock will turn with the key.
Is it safe for me to use 5w20 when the manual indicates 5w30?
After speaking to an engineer that works for Daimler Chrysler, I found out that the 2011 Jeep Wrangler is supposed to use 5w20 oil. I live in Canada, and we get the best of both worlds. +40°C and -40°C. I was experiencing oil shear in hotter weather, so he told me to run 5w30 and it won't make a difference. It actually made my fuel mileage better by almost 2 full points, and the engine noise quieted down dramatically. The Canadian model of the Jeep Wrangler is supposed to be running 5w30. 5w20 is for the California models, so the emissions levels are lower and it meets their stringent standards. Running a thinner oil is not a good thing, but in the short term, it may not do serious damage, but it's definitely not a good idea, especially if the temperature is on the warmer side.
What problems go along with a bad catalytic converter?
A clogged catalytic convertor causes the symptoms of a loss of power when accelerating or going up a hill. This is an often overlooked cause of loss of power, can cause check engine fault codes and lights, and mechanics will often change a few parts unnecessarily , especially if it is only partially plugged. A couple ways I check for plugged cats when a low power complaint is a symptom, and other obvious basic maintenance items have been checked for service is to have someone hold the rpm at about 1800 to 2000 steady. Then check for a good push of exhaust with my hand from behind the tailpipe. A plugged or partially plugged cat typically leaves a hot sickly feeling exhaust flow from the tailpipe. Compare to a known good working car nearby, known to be performing properly and with the same amount of cylinders. That slow , hot sickly flow at 2000 rpm compared to the hard push blowing your hand away of a not clogged cat is a dead giveaway, and I have NEVER misdiagnosed a plugged cat , or made false diagnosis with this method. Another way is watching a vacuum gauge connected to the intake manifold. When revving up, if the exhaust is plugged the gauge reading will climb then begin to slowly drop as the exhaust pressure builds up. Further testing will be needed to verify which part of the exhaust is plugged. Diagnostic by codes is unreliable and until now I had not heard of it. A code p420 only refers to catalyst efficiency. And can be set by faulty o2 sensors. Removing the exhaust and testing for engine power returning to normal works. But the hot sickly flow has been most accurate with my experience, in several cases where shops had missed it, were stumped and called me to come check. They are always embarrassed for missing the simplicity, but need not, as cars and their complicated electronics and even age old problems can lead to loss of power without any immediately obvious cause.
What are the symptoms of a bad inner tie rod?
Symptoms of tie rod failure can include clunking or clicking when turning the wheel or while traveling over a bumpy surface, noticeable steering slack (moving the steering wheel left to right when the wheels are straght), vibrations when driving, reduced turning radius either left or right and a simple way of checking for wear is to turn the wheels to the left of checking the left wheel and to grab the tie rod with both hands and to move it about. If it moves freely then it needs replacing, if not fixed soon complete tie rod failure would release either wheel from any steering input leaving you stranded and in a dangerous situation if it fails at higher speeds.