My transmission in my 1995 f-250 3/4 ton ford will only pull in reverse what could be wrong?
So...NO forward gears/movement at all i assume. Could be a few or many things. Could be a bad valve in the valve body,could be a obstruction in the transmission,burned clutches inside the transmission,forward gear(s)worn out,or any gear worn out along with MANY other items inside the case big and small. There's ALOT of parts in there to go bad. Does the transmission FLUID have a bad or burned smell,that's not good. The fluid should be pinkish or reddish and have no bad smell. Is there proper fluid level in it,check it while the truck is running in park,and see what the fliud level is. Does it have to pull loads often,that may have worn it all out. Miles on it,you didn't say. Get a "shift" kit installed in the valve body during the transmission rebuild,this can really help fluids move around much easier PLUS,you might want to think about a transmission oil(fluid)cooler,this can help reduce the heat of the fluid and they work well. Hope some of this helps you out but...sounds like it going to go into a shop for repair and depending on the shop it could be costly,make sure you get a warranty with it!
How to remove the pump on a 4L60E transmission?
can't use a slide hammer on that pump. no where for it to screw into on the pump. of course the transmission has to be out. the pan has to come off and the filter removed along with the lock up solenoid. two 10 mm bolts.then take off the pump bolts. stand the transmission up and VERY CAREFULLY pry the pump up where you see it meets the case just behind where the filter goes into the pump. if it does not come out easy then will have to find someone with pump puller and you would have to watch out so you do not ruin the ball/capsule in the output shaft. also will have to make sure the band does not come out of its area along with the input drum moving from its location or you'll never get the pump back on. if planning on taking the pump apart you'll need a pump alignment tool if not aligned correctly won't get that pump installed back into that case
Ford Transmission Pulling Question?
I have a Ford F350 Powerstroke (7.3) (1997) The truck itself is a excellent pulling truck but I am having issues with my Automatic Transmission. Whenever I have a load behind it (ie: Last weighed truck, trailer, horses, and equiptment. I was hauling 15,360 pounds) My Trans is shifting back and fourth when I hit any type a hard hill, and will not shift down till the truck hits 1,000 RPM's totally (for lack of better words) "Lugging" it down and dropping all the momentum I gained before hitting the hill. I do not pull in OD unless I am running over 60 MPH. I am not sure what to do I wanted to change from auto to manual in it, but that no longer seems feasable after what I have heard it involves. Can anyone recomend what to do, or what type auto trans for me to look at that WILL with stand this type pulling? I pull heavy loads that is why I got the 350 powerstroke, couldn't find it in a manual or I would have had that too. Any help would be greatly appreciated... Thank You soooo much!
What would make an Automatic Transmission "No Pull" after putting Fluid back in? New, or Old, or 50/50 Mix?
HI New or old fluid if it is full now well NOT make it pull. If you do not have a drain plug in the Torque converter (between the motor and transmission) you well not be able to get all the old fluid out with out using the flush method at a service/repair shop. A transmission holds around 11 qts of fluid when empty. When dropping the pan and CHANGING the filter (do not cleaning it) well only change out 3 to 4 qts. If it is full now and not pulling then there is other problems that new fluid well not fix. You may be able to get by with just a band adjustment but once it starts slipping it well eat up the clutches purity quick then its rebuild time. To check the fluid level the motor needs to be running, shifter in park and the motor and transmission to operating temperature. good luck tim
Who knows about CVT transmission and towing?
shouldn't be a problem, John Deere's been using the same Technology for years just to get an edge on the pulling capability's of it's tractors, simple set up once you understand the concept behind a constant velocity transmission, but your owners manuel should have a max tow load in there somewhere
You might be lucky.If this is a fairly modern vehicle then there are two potential problems that are relatively easy fixes and relatively inexpensive …as opposed to your transmission failing internally which is seriously expensive.Many automatic transmissions have a linkage and/or an electrical switch used to control the transmission gear selection. If the linkage and/or switch have gotten out of adjustment, then it’s a simple repair to readjust or replace the malfunctioning switch.In addition, there are electrically operated hydraulic control valves used to direct hydraulic pressure to the appropriate “circuits” of the transmission (in this case the reverse “circuit). If the reverse circuit valve has failed then you won’t get the vehicle into reverse. Again, this is a relatively easy repair and one, in the scheme of things, that is not too expensive.Neither of these two scenarios will result in having to replace the transmission or require any serious tear down.If you’re lucky.Unfortunately you’ll have to have your vehicle put on a flat bed and taken to your shop or the dealership. And once it’s there you’re kinda stuck. Because if it is an internal failure of some sort ….it’s gonna be expensive.Do you feel lucky?
The most obvious sign is the clutch 'slipping' that is, an increase in engine revs with the car in gear isn't matched by an increase in speed.(So the engine revs seem to 'run away' without the car getting faster).If you've been slipping the clutch deliberately but to excess, you'll often get an acrid smell of burn clutch lining, in an extreme case you'd get smoke! This is not good....!If your clutch is hydraulic & the slave or master cylinder fails, you'll find that the clutch pedal just goes straight down to the floor, without you being able to select a gear. If it's cable operated & the cable breaks, same symptom.Another sign is noise. Such as: rattling, whining, screeching etc. It's mre likely that noise will come from the gearbox, not the clutch.Difficulty in engaging gears is also a sign of various problems. Syncromesh hubs could be worn/failed, oil level low, bearings breaking-up etc.. (The latter with noise too).However, a sloppy, imprecise gear selection is more often a sign that the gear linkage is worn, not necessarily a sign that the gearbox itself is damaged. New rubber bushes etc., can make a work of difference to a sloppy/imprecise gearshift mechanism...
Once our transmission gets hot, it quits pulling; why? If you let it cool down, it will start pulling again::?
We have a Front-Wheel Drive, 1994 Buick LeSabre and it recently started acting up. As we were driving it, we could feel the transmission slipping. Shortly later, it completely went out (wouldn't pull at all). We added transmission fluid, but it didn't do the job - it pulled for about a minute, then stopped pulling. We let it set over-night at a gas station, and the next day we were able to drive it back home (about 1 mile away). Looking inside the transmission, it looks like it's a little bit over-full, but we did add that transmission fluid. Looking inside the radiator, the water is real red; we're not sure if it could be rust, or transmission fluid, and we're currently leaving the car parked in the driveway, out of fear of breaking down out on the main road. Does anybody know why the tranny isn't pulling? Could the pipes, inside the radiator, be busted? Any advice or tips would be greatly appreciated! Thanks for your time! -Jeremy
Why is my automatic transmission pulling and hitching??
Not too sure what you mean by "pull". And "hitch". A whine would generally mean that it is low on fluid and this would make it hesitate and then catch the gear or shift. If yoiu have noit had the transmission serviced in seven years it is high time for one of those $100 complete tranny fluid changes which includes the fluid in the torque convertor. When there are residues (gun powder like metal residues) in the transmission you can lose some hydraulic pressure even though there is nothing wrong with the tranny fluid pump or tranny. The internal wear creates small slivers of gear metal that end up in the pan and stuck to the magnet or the internal filter. But just like filtered water, this filter can't pull everything out of the fluid and the nearly microscopic metal residue stays suspended in the fluid and settles in different parts of the tranny including the pump. I saw a piece on Motor Week (Public Broadcasting Station) where they also recommended pulling the external transmission cooler (if your car has one) and flush this as well. If this simple tranny service does not fix your problem then they need to check the hydraulic pressure (pump) and make a recommendation from there. It is not uncommon for the tire shop service centers to under fill the transmission and cause this problem. My brother-in-law was three quarts low after a tranny service. It ran like a champ after I poured three quarts of fluid in the tranny. It has to be checked while the motor is running. Good Luck!
Excess transmission fluid will cause foaming in any transmission. Foam does not flow like oil, reducing cooling and lubrication. It also implodes on compression between gears or in the hydraulics of automatic transmissions, causing severe damage (pitting).In an automatic transmission, you will have higher temperatures and poor shifting, as it depends on solid hydraulic pressure, not spongy foam to move the clutches and bands.Automatic transmissions with dip sticks should be measured with the engine running, and consider the operating temperature. Note here how the heat affects the measurement. It should not be filled to the top when cold, or checked not running.If it does not have a dipstick, it is measured with the plugs on the side, depending on specific instructions per brand of car.Manual transmissions normally don't have dipsticks (some do). They are checked from a plug on the side of the transmission, and the level should normally be at the level of the plug, not above.