Why won't my car start after fixing a broken serpentine belt?
Ok so first question is the starter rotating the motor like it should and it just wont start or are you turning the key without getting any results. If its not turning over id first off hit the starter solenoid with a soft hammer a few good raps may dislodge a stuck solenoid. Now if the motor is spinning but not firing up my first place id look is the distributor wiring unless it runs coil packs then i would guess that you knocked the wires off the crank sensor or maybe even broke the crank sensor. I am at a disability here not knowing what the vehicle make is., if it died while driving because belt fell off and you ran on battery till it ran out of power. ( a jump start is the ticket in that case ) Honestly im going with the crank sensor or crankshaft position sensor.being the root of your problem because if the belt broke it could easily take out the sensor as belt flew around the front of the motor. But check all your connections and research the crank sensor ..its usually a cheap and easy part to replace if its in a area where belt passes by it that makes sense as to your problem. Ok let me know a bit more info if possible. Dont give up the answer will come
What causes black smoke in petrol cars?
Black smoke in the exhaust of petrol (gasoline) powered cars is caused by incomplete combustion of hydrocarbon fuel resulting in black carbon particles. Incomplete combustion is mainly caused by too much fuel for the amount of air available, or by fouled fuel injectors that don’t properly atomize the fuel. Too much fuel is caused by faults in the fuel injection control system that includes fuel pressure regulators, air volume and temperature sensors, and the engine control computer.
The engine of my VW Golf has started making a tapping noise and seems to be losing power. What could the problem be?
Please do not listen to all of these answers. A tapping noise does not always suggest catastrophic or imminent engine failure. There are many things that can cause this noise. Among the least expensive are the following to ease your mind a bit before jumping to the worst case scenario.Detonation. Detonation is typically caused by improper gapping of spark plugs or required spark plug replacement. Less commonly it may be an intake or fuel issue causing an imbalance in the combustion of the air/fuel mix.Valve lash adjustment. This is when the rocker arms are in need of adjustment which can be done by a professional with a feeler gauge.Ignition coils. Commonly in VW engines you can encounter this issue with ignition coils becoming worn, or not performing to their fullest potential. This is a common issue in many VW models.There are many scenarios that may cause the noises that you’re describing. Among the more serious issues would be Rod knock, which will require replacement of the engine. My best suggestion is to make it to a mechanic with the proper equipment diagnosis and find out exactly where the problem lies.
Are Volkswagen Passats a good car?
While the Passat is a good car, you can get better bang for your buck from competitors like the Honda Accord and Toyota Camry. Both start around the same price and offer a better value than the Passat. The Honda Accord offers more safety features, better crash test results, and two infotainment displays. Not only does the Camry rank higher in the midsize class, it also has a lower price. With the Camry, you'll get sportier handling and an infotainment system that uses a multifunction knob, which helps give it an upscale look and feel.whereas The Volkswagen Passat provides a comfortable ride with plenty of room for family and friends. Its spacious and quiet cabin includes high-quality materials. The Passat also offers a smooth, if not sporty, ride. The standard turbocharged four-cylinder engine delivers sufficient power, but the optional V6 provides more power and better acceleration. The Volkswagen Passat has a track record of average reliability. For above-average reliability, look to the Honda Accord. Reliability isn't the only reason this midsize car makes a better choice. Features are lacking in the Passat, including the small touch-screen display in its base infotainment system. The systems in rivals like the Accord and Camry are larger and look more up to date.
What are some symptoms of a bad idle air control sensor?
Idle air control valves open to allow more air to "leak" into the intake, raising the engine rpms, or close when not needed. When your AC compressor kicks in or power steering is activated as you suddenly turn the steering wheel, the sudden drag on the drive belt will bog down the engine. These systems send a signal to the engine computer telling it they are active and it then signals the IAC valve to open, which increases the engine speed. Without this occurring, the engine could struggle, or die. The IAC valve can cause weird idle issues, mess with throttle functionality or cause the car to die. Sometimes they fail, get stuck or just get all carboned up. Sometimes people have success at cleaning them, but generally it is best to replace them when bad. Idle issues and even problems with the IAC valve may not be due to the IAC valve being bad itself. An idle issue does not mean the IAC valve is bad. It is best to pay close attention to how the vehicle is acting, and then communicate that clearly and as completely as possible to your mechanic. Intermittent problems can be very hard to diagnose. Details will help. Knowing more about the vehicle in question and its symptoms (in detail) will also help in understanding more about what it is doing.
Why did my car shake and the check engine light flash while stopped at a light?
What you experienced was almost certainly a misfire event and the cause may be recorded as a diagnostic trouble code (DTC) in the engine controller’s memory. Most failures that are significant enough to cause MIL illumination will record a trouble code and its environmental/ data information from the moment, even if the MIL is no longer lit. Onboard Diagnostics work constantly to keep the MIL off, looking for a reason to turn the CE light out if the condition hasn’t been seen again recently, eventually even erasing trouble codes if all’s good. I can only speculate on the nature of your event, but a thorough scan to retrieve codes and freeze frame data of the moment will often shed some light on the situation.Misfires come in many flavors, ranging from slight loss of performance in a single cylinder, to one or more holes being completely dead. Your description of shake at an idle implies a power imbalance, which usually involves complete loss of performance, but just one hole.Barring an at-home scanner being available, rolling the ignition key from LOCK to RUN three times, then leaving it in the RUN position at the end will initiate the customer code-read feature, spilling any matured codes stored in the PCM through the instrument cluster’s odometer window. All codes will be four digits in length, beginning with the letter P, such as P0123. DTC information can be found at OBD2-OBDII Engine Light Trouble Codes Definitions, Description and Repair Information online.One-trip failures - those that have not quite matured - will not be displayed in this feature, but will show up on a high-end scanner if present.If only a single cylinder misfire code is retrieved, pull the coil and spark plug to inspect for signs of flashover - black marks on the upper spark plug insulator and inner coil boot that will not scratch off with a fingernail. Flashover is pretty common on coil-on-plug ignition systems and the cure is to replace both the boot and spark plug together. Worn plugs tend to incite this sort of situation as spark will always seek the path of least resistance.If your DTC list includes an injector control circuit code that matches the cylinder of misfire, chances are good that the injector is at fault. The injector may test as completely normal when cooler, but will go to an open circuit once heated, either naturally or with a heat gun.
Why is my car shaking and the check engine light flashing?
A shaking vehicle AND flashing MIL ("check engine light") sound like the vehicle is misfiring on at least one cylinder. As @Anna Nguyen, @Brendan Sinclair, @Antoun Nabhan and others have said, it could be an ignition related problem. It could also be fuel-related. If one or more fuel injectors are clogged or dead, that would also cause a misfire in the affected cylinder(s). These are relatively cheap/easy things to check and fix.Other causes (which could be more complicated and more expensive) to fix include contaminated fuel, a bent intake or exhaust valve, a broken valve spring, a damaged piston/connecting rod, and on and on.I recommend getting a scan tool and checking the codes which are causing the MIL to light/flash and I also strongly recommend NOT driving the vehicle until the problem is fixed. If you continue to drive the vehicle as is, you will exacerbate the problem. Dumping unburned fuel into the exhaust due to a misfire will overheat and kill your catalytic converter. A more serious problem like a bent valve can eventually cause you to crater your engine (i.e.: completely destroy the engine).