Why volkswagen polo cross have only one reversing light?
Because the law only requires one reverse light. In countries where a rear fog light is required, the rear fog light generally goes in the same place on the other side. Two reverse lights are very common in countries that don't require a rear fog light (here in the USA probably 98% of cars have two), but the second reverse light is not required by law.
What is the federal emissions warranty?
no. That would be too much mileage.
Emission system warning light?
it is likely an O2 sensor (Oxygen sensor), in which case wont do much.. you will get less gas mileage (not much less). The only thing would be when you go to get it inspected, you would have to fix it to make it pass inspection. Emissions systems don't do much to affect the performance, the cumputer will just over correct the fuel air mixture with more fuel (thus wasting more gas). So, in short, don't worry too much about it. Edit: it is possible that "bad gas" would cause the sensors to read out of range, but in that case you would also notice a difference in performance. I would do what Steve O said, go to an auto parts store and they can put the scanner on it to read the codes, most do that for free.
What does 'advised customer of slight oil leak on EGR valve' mean?
I have just bought a VW Golf GT TDi (2002) MK4, and in documentation for the car, I found an invoice from VW, where the previous owner had the cambelt and water pump changed about 9 months ago. But there was also an item on the invoice that stated 'advised customer of slight oil leak on EGR valve' - what does this mean? And is it a cause for concern? I drove the car back from the garage I purchased it from and it drove perfectly fine, so I'm a little confused here! Any advice from the mechanic cognoscenti would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance!
Why did my car shake and the check engine light flash while stopped at a light?
What you experienced was almost certainly a misfire event and the cause may be recorded as a diagnostic trouble code (DTC) in the engine controller’s memory. Most failures that are significant enough to cause MIL illumination will record a trouble code and its environmental/ data information from the moment, even if the MIL is no longer lit. Onboard Diagnostics work constantly to keep the MIL off, looking for a reason to turn the CE light out if the condition hasn’t been seen again recently, eventually even erasing trouble codes if all’s good. I can only speculate on the nature of your event, but a thorough scan to retrieve codes and freeze frame data of the moment will often shed some light on the situation.Misfires come in many flavors, ranging from slight loss of performance in a single cylinder, to one or more holes being completely dead. Your description of shake at an idle implies a power imbalance, which usually involves complete loss of performance, but just one hole.Barring an at-home scanner being available, rolling the ignition key from LOCK to RUN three times, then leaving it in the RUN position at the end will initiate the customer code-read feature, spilling any matured codes stored in the PCM through the instrument cluster’s odometer window. All codes will be four digits in length, beginning with the letter P, such as P0123. DTC information can be found at OBD2-OBDII Engine Light Trouble Codes Definitions, Description and Repair Information online.One-trip failures - those that have not quite matured - will not be displayed in this feature, but will show up on a high-end scanner if present.If only a single cylinder misfire code is retrieved, pull the coil and spark plug to inspect for signs of flashover - black marks on the upper spark plug insulator and inner coil boot that will not scratch off with a fingernail. Flashover is pretty common on coil-on-plug ignition systems and the cure is to replace both the boot and spark plug together. Worn plugs tend to incite this sort of situation as spark will always seek the path of least resistance.If your DTC list includes an injector control circuit code that matches the cylinder of misfire, chances are good that the injector is at fault. The injector may test as completely normal when cooler, but will go to an open circuit once heated, either naturally or with a heat gun.
How to Eliminate "Check Engine Light" after Removed Catalytic Converter ?
Those are the inevitable result of removing a required part of the emission control system, a serious federal offense. If the EPA discovers it the nominal fine is $10,000 but can reach $25,000. Unless your cat was so badly damaged you could barely reach freeway speeds before I assure you the turbo is not spooling up any sooner. Exhaust restrictions only make a difference at high exhaust volume and the turbo is made to spool up at low exhaust volume... otherwise the turbo lag would be awful. However, the code you had (P0420) does not normally point to the converter. The official description is "catalyst system efficiency below threshold [bank 1]." It is produced when the downsteam O2 sensor - the one that is in alarm now - reports high and fluctuating levels of free oxygen coming out of the converter, where the level should be low and fairly steady. I have never seen a P0420 produced by a bad converter... they are always produced by excess air being introduced into the front of the converter. The cause is a vacuum leak in one or more branches of the intake manifold, dirty fuel injectors, an exhaust leak ahead of the converter, or mixture control problems. The devil of it is that replacing the converter will make the light go out because the new one is enough better than the old one that the efficiency is above threshold for a while. Two years later the fault gets worse and the new converter loses some of its edge, so the code comes back. Another new converter works for a few months, then the code is back. Your car had a problem; now it has two problems. You can reduce it to the original problem by replacing the converter. Check the one you have for restriction by putting it to your face and huffing a good lungful of air into it. If the air goes through without trouble, just put the old one back... there is nothing wrong with it. The one converter I have seen that was plugged (much rarer than stories suggest) worked more or less okay around town but was so constricted it took about 5 seconds to exhale through. Once you have the exhaust back in shape you will need to hunt down the underlying problem. In that era VW the throttle bodies were problematic; for details on your 2000 Beetle I recommend Beetle forums. VW systems are pretty different from most.
Why is my car shaking and the check engine light flashing?
A shaking vehicle AND flashing MIL ("check engine light") sound like the vehicle is misfiring on at least one cylinder. As @Anna Nguyen, @Brendan Sinclair, @Antoun Nabhan and others have said, it could be an ignition related problem. It could also be fuel-related. If one or more fuel injectors are clogged or dead, that would also cause a misfire in the affected cylinder(s). These are relatively cheap/easy things to check and fix.Other causes (which could be more complicated and more expensive) to fix include contaminated fuel, a bent intake or exhaust valve, a broken valve spring, a damaged piston/connecting rod, and on and on.I recommend getting a scan tool and checking the codes which are causing the MIL to light/flash and I also strongly recommend NOT driving the vehicle until the problem is fixed. If you continue to drive the vehicle as is, you will exacerbate the problem. Dumping unburned fuel into the exhaust due to a misfire will overheat and kill your catalytic converter. A more serious problem like a bent valve can eventually cause you to crater your engine (i.e.: completely destroy the engine).
VW Golf MK4 keeps shutting off?
This is why I prefer the simplicity of older cars. There are so many things that can go wrong with all newer cars these days, there is almost no way to be sure. And this is not a VW problem, as other makers have even more problems like this. First of all, there are the main relays, such as the fuel pump and electronic ignition. The contacts can get oxidized but the relays an also go out intermittently. You can try putting electrical lube on the contacts, but it can't hurt to carry spares. Another thing you can do is wire a LED from the fuel pump and from the ignition, in order to be able to see when either of them lose current. Then there is fuel pressure. You can have a clogged filter, bad pump, relay, bad gas tank vent valve, stuck pressure regulator, water, etc. Not sure what to say about most of these, except that many people put in a permanent gauge for the fuel pressure. It saves time since that is the first thing the garage is supposed to do. If you hear a whoosh when you open the gas cap the vent valve is the problem, because as you use gas or park on hot asphalt, a vacuum or pressure builds up in the tank if you don't let air in or out. Another common problem is the EGR valve. Intended to reduce NOx, it is very harmful to the engine, and if it goes on or sticks on at idle, it will kill the engine and make it very hard to restart. And it sticks often. It has to, because it is constantly contaminated with exhaust deposits. So you can see there is almost an infinite list. Start with the easy things, like plug, filters, etc. Then slowly try the more expenive or uncommon. See if you can simply bypass or disable systems temporarily, to see if that helps. Such as the EGR, purge valve, and PVC. I can explain how to do that for these systems if you want. Just ask us.
If you drive long enough with a flashing check engine light, what can happen?
The flashing CEL is indicative of a severe condition.In particular it can mean the introduction of unburned fuel into the exhaust stream ...which can lead to catastrophic failure of the catalytic converter (the word *BOOM* comes to mind).I suppose it never occurred to you to look in the owners manual to see what, specifically, the flashing CEL means with regard to your vehicle.In most cases it means quit driving the car, there is something seriously wrong that can cause serious problems and you need to get the car looked at ASAP.Or, you can be the poster person for the "Ignorance Is Bliss" society and keep driving your car ...until it's not ...."bliss" that is.
Why does my check engine light come on after getting gas?
As many have mentioned, it's not simple to answer without more information. There are a number of emmisions fault codes that can occur when fueling for a variety of reasons. Heres a few-Various leak codes. The fuel tank isn't just a can with a pipe in from the filler neck and a pipe out to the fuel line to the motor. There is also also ventilation system that corrects for tank pressure changes allowing air to enter when needed while keeping fuel vapor from escaping, and can pull that fuel vapor into the intake system of the engine.The most common leak issue is a loose or misplaced filler cap that causes a major leak code. Next is a failed seal on the fuel filler cap causing a minor lack code. After that you have the charcoal canister shutoff valve sticking open due to a mechanical failure or due to debris from the charcoal canister caused by impact, consistent over filling, or age. Next would be the purge valve sticking open or closed. Finally hard system leaks such as a cracked hose or seal at the level sensor assembly.Overfilling can affect the charcoal canister by degrading the charcoal filter and causing the valve to stick. This system was only designed for vapor and not liquid fuel.As the fuel tank is semi flexible, the weight of the fuel will normally distort the tank and allow for some leaks due to dried or failed seals to be fuel level dependent.Finally there are the weird ones… found a low-jack transmitter installation gone awry. The installer screwed the mount through the floor under the seat into the fuel tank. Once he realized fuel was leaking on the ground he pulled the screw out, out some sealant on it and screwed it back in the hole. The customer only got a minor leak code when they had a full tank and the weight pulled the tank down off the screw.Found couple plastic tanks cracked at a seam. Also found issues due to distortion and swelling of the plastic tank from E85 and MTBE. There were a few metal tanks with braised hose junctions that separated. One tank actually collapsed and crushed due to a stuck shutoff valve and a bad sensor.Good luck.