What Amps Should I Get With My Subwoofers

How do I know which amp to get for my subwoofer?

First check how much RMS power your sub is rated at. Lets say its 500 watts RMS @ 4 ohms. Then get an amp that is rated at same power at 4 ohms. A bit less than 500 would be okay and a bit more than 500 would also be okay. But in case if you get a big amp lets say a 1000 watts amp, then you have a lot of head room to spare. Also you will need to set gains properly to limit the 1000 watt amp’s output to 500 watts as mostly damage is done when overpowering a sub.Also to make sure you get the power that is mentioned on the amp, go for a CEA compliant amp or search for amp dyno reviews for the amp you are going to buy.P.S. For a sub to sound good, a proper enclosure is of prime importance, the amps come in second. Hope it helped. let me know if you have more questions.

What size amps should I get for a 15-inch subwoofer?

The most important part of this question is that it’s a subwoofer. You don’t need a lot of power to move a lot of air with a 15″, but it also depends on your subwoofer’s frequency response, and your required frequency response.In a sealed box, the woofer will roll off I think at -6dB per octave, while in a ported box, it will roll off much steeper. However, if it is a ported box, you don’t want to push the woofer hard below the box frequency. In this case, enough power is what you need. Average power will likely be 10 W or so, but when the large transients hit, you don’t want distortion, so for 15″, I would guess you’re looking for high SPL, so I would recommend no less than 200 W (quoted RMS amplifier rating).For a sealed enclosure, things become interesting. You can compensate the roll-off below the woofer’s low frequency response using a simple 2nd order low-pass filter on the input. So your LPF will have a -3dB frequency of, say, 2 octaves below Fb of the woofer (the woofer’s -3dB frequency on the low side). For example, if your woofer goes down to 40 Hz (-3dB), you can make a LPF at 10 Hz (-3dB). This will compensate the woofer, but you then need a lot more power, and the woofer driver needs to be able to handle that power. The further your filter frequency from your woofer frequency, the more power you need, but the lower (frequency) your response will be.To illustrate:As you can see, the -3dB frequency response of the woofer with the filter is 10 Hz, and it will respond down to about 5.5 Hz. But you need a huge amount more power (roughly 30 times more). For reasonable output, you need 16 W for a 93 dB sensitivity woofer (let’s assume sensitivity is accurately measured at 1 W). For the same power with the above filter, you therefore need 480 W. So there’s your answer - for a sealed woofer box with a -3 dB low frequency of 40 Hz, if you compensate this to respond as above, and the woofer can handle it, you need a 500 W amplifier. :) And know something for sure - that woofer excursion is going to be something crazy! And if it can manage the excursion and power, you’ll have one very thunderous woofer!Verdict: 200 - 500 W

What amp should I use for a 1500 watt subwoofer?

1500 W continuous power or 1500W peak?Home audio subwoofer?Pro audio subwoofer?Car audio subwoofer?One coil subwoofer? 2 coil subwoofer?Please rethink your question, and try again.

If I have two 400 watt RMS subwoofers what size amp do I need? How can you tell?

Probably 800 watts at half the rated ohms of one speaker. Your amp must be able to push 800 watts at, say, 2 ohms if these are 4 ohm speakers or 800 watts at 4 ohms if these are 8 ohm speakers.It will say on the speakers what the impedance in ohms is.Get an amp that is specified with 800 watts or over, at an ohm rating that is SAME or UNDER…half the ohm rating of one of those speakers.That's the answer here's a short ramble:Almost inevitably you will be running the two speakers in parallel. Whether you have two outputs on your power amplifier; or if you go into one speaker then go out from that speaker to the next; the connection you don't see inside the speaker with in and out or inside the amp is a parallel connection. Parallel connections divide the impedance (ohms.) It takes a bigger amp to handle lower impedance, because lower impedance is lower AC resistance. Lower resistance means more amps flowing for the same output voltage. More amps requires a beefier output section. The actual equation for total speaker ohms of speakers wired in parallel is:Total ohms = 1/((1/ohms#1)+(1/ohms#2))…If you put in a third speaker there would be another similar term in the denominator, (1/ohms of speaker #3). More speakers, lower ohms…The amp will say what the watts and ohms are on the back, or at least in the manual it will tell you what it can handle. Be at or below the ohms, and above the watts.

Can I use a subwoofer without amplifiers in a car?

You will always need an amplifier to run the transducer. The amount of amplification you may need will depend on what you pretend to do.Think of it this way. A loudspeaker power capacity is its capacity to handle power. Loudspeaker drivers are not self-sufficient and they have no power, they can handle power up to a certain limit.A 1000W woofer will work from 0W to 1000W, depending on its sensitivity. You should be able to have the loudspeaker “work” with 1W. So connecting it to your head unit directly would make it “work”. Would you be able to get good results? Probably not. Usually, the subwoofer needs twice the power you are feeding to the rest of the speakers in order to get “acceptable” results or be effective enough for you to notice it is there.Also, the woofer would need to be connected to a mono channel, if you connect it to either the left or the right channel of your head unit, you may not get all the information depending on how the recording/mixing was made, and you do not have an amplified sub out mono channel on the head unit. So, the result will be poor.But you have to consider that even your head unit has amplification inside (almost all do, some are only preamplifiers and will need external amplification for all speakers). Your car speakers would not work otherwise.So, without any amplifier at all, not even the one from the head unit, you can have the sub in the car, but it will be as useless as would be all the other speakers in the car without one. Unless you are an inventive person and manage to find a different use for your loudspeakerBut you have plenty of options on the market that “do not need” a separate amplifier. Just look for an active subwoofer, that is a subwoofer with an enclosed amplifier, one that does not need a separate one. You can find those in all sorts of shapes and with different specs. Just chose one that fits your needs.