I have a 1994 chevy cavalier that won't start. It turns over but wont start. Replaced MAP and O2 sensors. ?
First things first!!! Do you have spark??? Do you have fuel pressure??? You need to know these things first before throwing money at the problem. The car may have started even if all the components you have already changed were faulty. Check for spark by taking out spark plug and seeing if it fires when you turn the engine over. If it does check fuel flow. You may have a clogged filter, bad fuel, bad fuel pump relay or bad fuel pump. make sure you have power to the pump before replacing it. Good luck!!!
I have a 1995 Chevrolet Cavalier that keeps overheating it stays cool while moving but overheats at standstill
Ok I was going to stay out of this one, but I see you are getting some pretty bad answers here. When the vehicle is moving the wind flows through the radiator on its own, and you don't need a fan. When you are stopped, no wind is traveling across the radiator to keep it cool, so the temperature sensor tells the computer the engine is hot, thus the computer activates the relay to turn on the fan. You can check the relay by turning on your AC, and if the fans come on then, you have a bad relay, and if they don't come on replace the relay, but first check the fuse for the fans. You could be low on coolant due to it running hot while sitting in traffic. It most likely is either the relay gone bad, or the sensor (that is right near the thermostat housing) is bad, and not sending a signal to the computer to turn on the fan. You can run a wire straight off the (+) battery terminal to the fan, and if it comes on, then the fan is good, and if they come on when you turn on the AC, then that only leaves two things, either the fuse is bad, or the temperature sensor (switch) is bad, and not telling the ECM to power up the fan/fans. Glad to help out, Good Luck!!!
Okay.The first thing you need to find out is *why* the "engine light" ...which I am assuming is the "Check Engine Light" (CEL) ...is on. For that, and everything else, you'll need to bring the car in and have the shop run some diagnostics on it.The CEL is the warning indicator of a system monitoring various emissions systems of the engine. One of those systems has to do with monitoring and regulating the fuel fed to the engine. There are some sensors that have service lives ...and with more than likely way over 100K on your Cav ...there are probably a few that have exceeded their service life.There is a sensor monitoring the flow of air into the engine ...called a Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF) and it sits in the direct flow of air into the engine. Over time the MAF sensor can get dirty ...and it doesn't take much dirt to mess it up. A dirty MAF sensor can create problems like you're having.There are sensors called Oxygen Sensors (O2) that measure the amount of oxygen in the exhaust flow. They have a useful service life of about 65-75K miles. If you've never replaced them they are probably malfunctioning at worst or simply not functioning optimally at best.There may be a host of other issues that need attention and could be contributing to the issues you're having. A lot has to do with how well, or not, you've taken are of your car over the miles.
It sounds like you have a bad ignition switch, or a bad ground. The instrument cluster, and fuel pump relay both ground at the rear of the engine. I would check any bolt or nut at the rear of or on top of the engine that fastens a wire or cable to the engine. Any other wires under the hood that are grounded to the body, or frame should be checked, cleaned or tightened as necessary. The ignition switch has a pink wire that should have battery voltage when the switch is in the run position. If the switch is hard to get to, you could check for voltage at the ignition module fuse, or the instrument cluster fuse, which are probably located in the fuse box inside the car. If you have a test light you can test for power at the fuse with the key on and the car in its no start condition. If no power to fuse the switch is probably bad. These seem to me the two most likely causes for the problem described in your question, especially the ignition switch. Intermittent electrical failure can be difficult to diagnos, and I could be way wrong here, but this is where I would start.
Should i turbo a cavalier z24?
You didn't mention what year - the Z24 came with both an 2.9 V6 in the earlier models and a 3.1 V6 in later. Even later came the LD9 ("quad 4") and there was actually some sort of Eaton supercharger install available on the very late Z24's. This all changes what you want to do with your cavvy, and what engine you have will help you decide what is the best performance option. I think some of these answers didn't account for the fact that your cavvy is different than a standard cavvy, and that cavvies had quad 4's, Ecotecs, and V6's over the years. I linked you to the j-body web site - these guys will give you a lot of good information on what to do with your Z24 - including performance mods and swaps. Keep an open mind and do your research beforehand, so you don't go blowing up your motor, or throwing good money after bad. Finally, ignore the "POS" comments, and build yourself a killer sleeper Z24. Its the essence of hot rodding to mod what you got.
94 cavalier overheated and shut off?
Could be two separate problems, First I would do a compression check on each cylinder to rule out a possible blown head gasket. Next If your sure you not getting spark? remove the ignition control module. It is located at the back of the engine usually held on by three bolts and two connectors, Note and mark the plug wires before removing them from the coils. Take it up to auto zone they can test them very common part to go bad on 91-94 Chevy cavaliers the ignition control module. I would get your hands on a repair manual.
1994 Chevy 1500 running problem? Mechanics Please. its a toughy?
Charlie seems to be on the right track, check the condition of the brake booster, but exactly which spark plug brand(champions run too cold in a GM) are you using? Is the gap intricately correct? Did you touch the rotor with your bare hands when you installed it? Has the air filter system been changed from factory? Did you check the TCC or clutch lockup curcuit? It seems that you have multiple problems going on at the same time. KM indicates that you live in Canada and may be the mechanics there feel that it's not worth saving, but I do. I used to live in AK, so cold is not a condition that is of much concern when it comes to a correct running vehicle. Another thing that concerned me in what you have written is that the amp guage is incorrect. You should have the charging system tested to see whether the alternator is putting out as much as is indicated or not. 1. if the truck starts revs then dies = problem 2.brake at stoplights and wont stop or dies = low vacuum or bad brake booster. = no acceleration until the vacuum comes back.(this is why we look in the vacuum system.) 3.customer complaint-pedal pushes back at them = Idle air control solenoid or related system. 4.can't stop or bump-push at stop = TCC(transmission clutch converter solenoid) or lockup solenoid. 5.can't stop cruise = cruise module or related system. 6.heat does not exceed 100 before fan kicks in. = bad thermostat or fan switch - check coolant satruation. Recomendaton Check the codes in the computer including the last known freeze frame data. check or change the brake booster or make sure that it's working correctly.(extreme cold check) check the entire vacuum system for leaks. check and clean the EGR(exhaust gas recirculation) valve and passage. clean and check the IAC(ilde air control) solenoid and passage check the TCC(transmission control) or lockup solenoid circuit check the cruise circuit change the thermostat and check the fan switch and the percent of coolant in the system.
MkIII Cavalier (1995-2005) should have the oil filter behind the engine below the intake manifold, between the block and the firewall. That's for the 2.2l OHV engine most 4 door Cavs were equipped with. For the 2.2l DOHC engine...I'm not certain, but probably behind the engine as well. There are shadetree mechanics on YouTube who swear up and down that you don't HAVE to get at the oil filter from underneath the car...but from my own experience: it's much easier to get at from under the vehicle. You'll need a pair of jack stands, or a set of ramps (good ones). A mechanics creeper would be nice to have as well. I've had the best results removing one of these filters with an appropriately-sized strap wrench.This all assumes you're looking for a regular disposable-type filter. The Chevy Cobalt, which replaced the Cavalier in 2005, had a cartridge type filter with a renewable inner cartridge and a outer filter housing that was a permanent part of the engine.
Why won't my transmission shift into gear?
Odds are you're running a 4l60e or a 700R4. Most likely a 4l60e because GM switched over in the early 90's. The 4l80e is mainly for heavy duty applications. You won't even see it on V8 models unless they are at least 2500's. Check you transmission fluid. If the Transmission is still good, then that's the most likely cause, low or no fluid. If the fluid level is good, then check the gear linkage. Otherwise, your transmission may have been damaged recently. With the 4l60e transmissions, when they begin to fail, it's usually the reverse gear that fails first. But since all your gears seem to not be working it sounds like no or low fluid. I have a 94 Suburban with a V8. It has the 4l60e transmission. And I once had a very similar problem, it wouldn't shift out of park. So I checked and added transmission fluid, and it shifted fine afterwards. Good Luck
Yes.I’m fairly certain you can turn any automatic off in neutral, or in any other position, at least for cars with a key anyways. You cannot remove the key, or in some cases turn the ignition switch all the way back. Your accessory power may still be on, but it will allow you to shut down the engine, assuming that’s what you mean by “off”. To roll the ignition switch to off and remove the key, the vehicle, like most vehicles, would have to be in the “P” or park gear position.The cavalier will also start in the neutral position. Most auto trans vehicles allow starting in either the park position or the neutral position. Most automatics also will not allow you to shift until the brake is depressed, though shifting from neutral to drive can usually be done without the brakes on.