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What Could Be Wrong With This 3d Hd Tv

How do i turn on HD on tv??

An HD over the air tuner AND a good antenna are both required to get over-the-air digital TV.

After you hook up the antenna, tell the TV to search for signals. When it finds stations like 8.1, those are the digital channels.

Whether or not they're in HD is the broadcaster's choice.

You can also connect your TV's antenna input to a cable TV system, and it will tune the "clear" (unencrypted) QAM digital TV channels - no cable box neeeded. But usually the only in-clear digital TV channels on a cable system are those carrying the local over-the-air stations.

What is wrong with my TV?

Not sure about the PS3 but for DVD players I can answer this. DTS and Dolby Digital are the 2 audio formats used on DVD and they have a very high dynamic range. Dynamic range is a measure of the difference between the loudest and softest sounds that a source can produce without losing any sound quality. You may have noticed that while watching movies the volume goes up during action/fight/chase scenes. This is the dynamic range in action. They intentionally make the usual dialogue etc. quieter than the action scenes so that the action is emphasized. On my Panasonic surround sound HTIB I normally set the volume to -10dB (range is from -84 to 0dB) as that is the highest it goes before the subwoofer level is turned down and it is also the volume where the dialogue is at a comfortable level (and the action blares).

Having said that I will mention that on most players it is possible to disable and sometimes adjust the amount of dynamic range allowed by adjusting a setting in the setup menu called (appropriately enough) "Dynamic range compression” Turning this on will make all parts of the movie be at the same sound level. To me this makes the movie sound bland but it is quite useful when other people are sleeping as it stops you from having to manually adjust the volume during the action scenes so that it doesn't wake them up.

Also I am not sure why you are using the composite video (yellow) input for the DVD as it is really killing your picture quality. I would be using progressive scan through the component video input if the TV and DVD player both have the ports and support it. If they don't have component ports I would at least use the S-Video connection.

You can get a 2d to 3d hdmi converter. But usually they come with passive glasses (the red &blue type)Amazon.com: IOGEAR 3D Complete+ 2D to 3D Converter (GHDSSW4): Electronics

I have a 3D HDTV Question?

"...which manufacture's model has the best 2D to 3D conversion?" There is no such. Can't happen. 3D requires two independent original images, one for each eye. A 2D program is a single image and is displayed in 2D on a 3D TV.

Consumer Reports rated 3D TVs in its March 2011 issue. Short version: Panasonic plasma, period.
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Followup: the "3D conversion" systems demonstrated at CNET are familiar. That's old news. Just because someone has invented a process called 2D to 3D conversion doesn't mean it actually results in real 3D. As reviews from CNET plus the other answer here both day, the results of trying to do that are pretty poor. If you understand how human eyes work together to produce a sensation of depth to the viewer, you also understand that 3D--real 3D--is *impossible* without separate, original images at the source, one for each eye.

If that's not terribly clear, think of it like this: take a picture of the front of your house from a slight angle--you can see most of the front and most of the left side of the building. Go inside and print that photo. Now come up with a photo from the same angle, with the exact same, color, lighting, and perspective, but now showing the right side of the house. Don't use any type of camera. Don't even go outside. You have nothing but your single image showing the left side of the house. Obviously, you can't do it.

But that's exactly what you have to do to make 3D out of 2D, and that's why doing it convincingly cannot be done.

Panasonic HDTV Projection Monitor/TV going dark?

It could be your bulb. Projection TV bulbs only last a few years depending on usage and then they start to dim. Google says this TV was produced around 2002 so if you use it a lot, that's about 6 years of usage. I'd start there...

Rear-projection TV: Probably upgradeI'm surprised you're still able to buy lamps for your TV. Most new LCDs and OLEDs will be far brighter, and have a better contrast ratio than just about any RPTV (CRT models excepted). If you have a DLP-based model though, the motion resolution on it will be way better than an LCD or OLED. CRT 'tube' TV: Probably upgrade (bold)I'm impressed with your ability to keep a TV running, but modern TVs will be bigger and brighter, OLEDs will have a better contrast ratio. If you ever need to replace your Blu-ray player or media streamer, most of the latest models only have HDMI (which your TV probably doesn't have).Front projector: Don't upgradeIf your projector is from the pre-3D era, new projectors are likely a lot brighter. Unless you're really well heeled, they're still just 1080p though. If you're really feeling the itch to upgrade, I'd recommend getting a new projector over a 4K TV. In fact, getting a new display that's smaller than your current display is almost always a bad idea. It will see so small, especially compared to a projector.Bottom lineAs usual when someone asks, "Should I get a Refurbished ___?" the best answer is "It depends on what you already have."By the way, if you're thinking of upgrading the size of your current TV, that's worth considering. I don't think I've ever met someone who regretted getting a larger TV.Visit here For know about "4K ULTRA HD UHD TV Deals"

Watching HD 3D television on a normal TV?

The answer appears to be no. While it's true that the blu ray 3D standard was just set, and most blu ray players won't need to be upgraded, the TV is a different case. It appears that these TVs that were announced in the last couple of days at CES 2010 will use an active shutter system, that's not what you see in IMAX which is just a system that polarizes the light differently for the left and right eye.

So, the glasses will need to be powered, and the TV will be controlling and syncing the shutter of each lens. It appears the TV is key. Since no current TVs have the ability to read the new blu ray 3D spec, and have no ability to send any kind of signal out to sync to the glasses, all current TVs, that are not labeled as 3D ready for this type of system will not work.

Back to the first sentence, when you stated you don't want to buy a new TV... really, you are the only one? Nobody want to buy anything, it would be nice if everything ever made was future proof and we could watch HDTV on 20 year old TVs, but that's not realistic.

Just enjoy the TV you have now, no need to panic. This 3D stuff is going to take years to roll out big. I remember back around 2000 when a very small handful of shows were going to be shown in HD it was a big deal. Only a small number of homes had HDTVs. Some people went out and got HDTVs and guess what, there wasn't much to see. Over the air was literally a few hours of content in an entire week. It took a few years before there was a large number of channels and people had to wait about 5-6 years until HD DVD and blu ray were even available.

Chill out, watch and make sure that there aren't going to be a bunch of different standards, plus the first TVs are going to charge extra, but looking at Vizio 3D HDTVs shown at CES, they won't be that much more. The 47 LED local dimming 3D set is being listed by Vizio at 1999 the 55 at 2499 and the massive 72 inch is a steal at 3499 considering you can spend a lot more than that on a 65 LCD that isn't even LED local dimming for a lot more, and no 3D either.

Either way no rush, since that's not much more than regular sets, it won't be long before it drops to what most flat panels go for now. I remember in 1998 when I saw a plasma TV for the first time. It was 42 inches and it cost 19,999 bucks at Good guys electronics. The picture was crap by the way.

Should I get a 3D TV or a regular HDTV?

I have 2 new samsung LED and Plasma 3D sets and although I didnt buy for the 3D its pretty cool and the movies are awesome,But some people get headaches or dont like it,The new 2012 TVs with full HD 3D are way better than just a year ago with very thin and light active shutter glasses,samsung uses the new sg4100 active shutter glasses and they work great alot less if any fatigue and zero ghosting that was an issue in previous generation 3D,as far as being a fad its the standard everyone cant agree on or we would have evreything 3D and almost 77% of tvs now 2012 are 3D and by 2015 it will be90% or more,like it or not, you don't have to use it,My son and I both find the effects on the new 2012 E series to be amazing.I remember when surround sound came out everyone said it sucked and was a fad now try finding a movie or signal without surround or dolby digital.Cell phones in the 90s were a gimmick also now literally billions have them,I could go on but I think you see the logic.Not opinion its fact!

Best 3D glasses for HD TV?

The only 3d format you can watch on any tv is anaglyph. It uses different colored glasses like red and cyan(blue-green), green and magenta, amber and blue. If you want 3d that uses shutter glasses or the tinted glasses like at the theater, you have to have a tv and disk player that are 3d. Also for anaglyph 3d the colors of the glasses have to match the colors used in the 3d movie or it won't work. The Coraline 3d dvd uses green and magenta in the movie, so you need green and magenta glasses, amber and blue won't work for it.

The most likely cause is bad electrolytics in the power supply.  Open up (carefully) the power supply and look for bulged at the top or leaked capacitors.   Replace them with quality (  Nichicon, Panasonic or NCC ) low ESR capacitors.Another possibility is a bad solder joint, try tapping and flexing the circuit board.  If the TV comes on suddenly, you have a bad solder joint.   Tap it more and more gently until you can narrow down the most sensitive area.

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