How can i transfer an unsigned title?
If the title was never assigned to your ex (nothing filled in) then there are two ways that this can be handled. The previous owner can either assign the title to your ex, and then your ex would get a title in her name, and assign it to you, or the previous owner can assign the title directly to you. Legally this is not title jumping, it is the canceling of the gift of the car to your ex and the transfer of ownership to you from the original owner. Your ex never took ownership (legally) of the car If the title was assigned to your ex, but not signed, the previous owner can sign and have your ex title the vehicle, or apply for a duplicate title (assigned in error) and assign it to you.
What is the process for transfer of a used car title in California?
The process is described in a set of pages on the DMV website: Buying or Selling a Vehicle Changing Vehicle OwnershipFrom what I remember when I bought a used vehicle, the process is pretty simple:If necessary, the seller takes the vehicle for a smog check (emissions inspection). The smog certificate is transmitted electronically to the DMV and the seller gives the buyer a copy of the receipt. Smog certification is not required if the vehicle is less than four model years old, if the transfer is between immediate family members, or if the vehicle has had a smog check in the last 90 days. Certain types of vehicles are also exempt.The buyer and seller sign the front of the title. If there is a lienholder (for example, if the seller took out a loan to buy the vehicle and has not yet paid it off), the lienholder must also sign. Note that if the car is jointly owned both owners must sign.After signing the title and receiving payment, the seller hands over the vehicle and keys (and the title) to the buyer.The seller must notify the DMV within 5 days of the sale using the Notice of Transfer and Release of Liability form (which can be completed online).The buyer fills out the form on the back of the title (new lienholder also fills out form, if applicable) and takes the form to the DMV within 10 days. (It's often useful to make an appointment.) At the DMV, the buyer pays the use tax (7.5%-10% of the purchase price--see CA City & County Sales & Use Tax Rates) and the transfer fee ($15). There might be other fees that I don't remember.The buyer receives the new title and registration card in the mail.Since it is illegal to drive without insurance, the buyer must add the car to their car insurance policy before driving away, although this is not necessary for the sale to take place. I did this the day before the sale, and my insurance company told me that if the sale fell through for some reason, they would refund my money. Presumably, the seller should also inform their insurance company that they no longer own the car (unless they want to keep paying for some reason).Note that in California the license plates stay with the car. The buyer will have to renew the vehicle registration at the regular interval (in the month indicated by the sticker on the rear license plate).
Cheapest BRAND/DEALER to buy an AR-15 RIFLE????????????
Here's how I did it. I went to www.auctionarms.com I checked and found AR-15 lowers and bought one for $280. A couple months later, when I replenished my "gun fund", I checked and found AR-15 uppers. I found a nice flat top upper (one without the carrying handle) and bought it for $400. Put the two together with no problems. Shoots reliably and with decent accuracy. All for $680. The site does also offer complete rifles, used and new.
Is it bad to buy a car with a salvage title?
Not necessarily.A salvage car is a car that has been declared by an insurance agency as a total loss. Most often, these are cars that have suffered damage to a degree in which that the owner’s insurance company decided that it would be too expensive to fix the car because the overall value of the car is close to being met or even exceeded by the costs of the repairs. Insurers will write off, or “total” a car in a situation like this, and will often offer a settlement to the car’s owner in exchange for taking the wrecked car off their hands.This, however, does not mean that the car has been completely wrecked, as in some cases even relatively minor damage may be considered to be too expensive to fix in a lower value car. In other cases, however, a car can be declared a total loss if it has been stolen and has gone unrecovered for a specific period of time.Cars in any of these circumstances become property of the insurance company and are reclassified as salvage. This means the car has to be issued a new title that lists its status as a salvage vehicle under state law. Insurers then take these salvage cars that they now own and attempt to sell them off to the highest bidder at a used car auction.While each state has different regulations, there are several aspects in common. The most important one is that you cannot get a car with a salvage title back on the road without repairing it first. This means that if you do buy a damaged salvage car at auction, you can’t drive it until it’s rebuilt to the point where your state will let it back on the road once more. For most people, this may seem like a bad deal.However, there are some advantages to buying and then rebuilding a salvage vehicle. First and foremost: buying a salvage car at auction can be incredibly inexpensive, as insurers just want the car out of their possession and are little interested in recovering their costs.Additionally, if you are going to restore the car yourself or otherwise absorb the labor costs, it will be much less expensive to repair the vehicle than it would have otherwise been. This makes it a solid investment if you want your own reasonably-priced used car as a daily driver or if you own a used car dealership and you’re planning to sell rebuilt salvage vehicles to customers.Reference: A Primer on Salvage Cars and Online Auctions - Auto Auction Mall
What can I do if the dealership I bought my car from never gave me the title, registration and plates that I paid in full for >2 months ago?
I live in California, so I’ll reference our procedure. When you purchase a new car, the dealer will issue a temporary registration certificate. This is usually a small piece of paper, which is taped inside the window of the vehicle. It’s normally the lower, right hand side of the windshield, but can also be the back window, if it’s not too heavily tinted.This temporary registration is good for 90 days.When the dealer sells the car, they notify DMV of the sale, purchase price, lending institution and liability release. DMV will then send the title (pink slip) to the lending institution and they will send you new license plates and a registration certificate.Although 2 months seems like a long time, believe it or not, it can actually take this long, and longer for the registration to be processed. Here in California, recent budget issues have rendered the DMV severely understaffed, and transactions can take longer than they used to.If you never received the temporary registration for your vehicle, the dealer must provide that. Simply go back to the dealer and explain the problem. They have the forms there to generate a duplicate. If they refuse to issue a temporary registration for your new vehicle, then call the police and report them. Do this from the dealer lot, so the police can deal with this while you are present.No dealer wants this kind of negative attention…
If I sell a car and the buyer doesn't register the car am I still liable for whatever happens with the vehicle?
In Texas, you fill out Form VTR-346 “Texas Motor Vehicle Transfer Notification.”It is free. You just fill it out and mail it to the DMV. It notifies the state that you sold your vehicle, and who you sold it to.Here is some personal experience I have had with this whole subject:Many many years ago, I am not sure we even knew about this form. We sold a car. Over two years later the DMV called us and said the vehicle was disabled and on the side of the highway. They showed on their system it was never transferred out of our name. When we told them we sold it years ago, they were fine with that and didn’t require us to do anything.I sold a car to a family member. I filled out the Texas Motor Vehicle Transfer Notification Form (VTR-346). They never transferred the title because they lost it. The vehicle sat for a while. Another family member got toll road fines for driving that vehicle without paying. Guess who got the bill? We did. All we had to do to get them dismissed was mail the copy of the VTR-346 we mailed to the state. So we weren’t responsible for the toll fines, because we could prove we sold the car.One of my insurance customers sold a vehicle but didn’t send the form to the state. The new owner wrecked the car while driving drunk. My customer got a claim filed against their insurance for the accident. My customer had to prove he really sold the vehicle. Meanwhile, claims adjusters are calling, a claim is now on his record for the accident. The claim was eventually denied; Zero paid on it. However, that claim will be on his CLUE report for years and if he switches insurance carriers, he will have to explain and prove that he didn’t own the vehicle when the claim happened. A pain in the ass that will follow him for 3–5 years. But wait, the accident follows the driver, right? Yes, correct. So even though my customer won’t have an accident tied to his driving record, the CLUE report will still show a claim was filed under his policy.So, as you can see, sometimes nothing at all will happen, or crap can happen that will follow you for years. If you can’t PROVE you sold a vehicle and someone kills someone in it, you might become embroiled in a legal battle.Do yourself a favor and file the piece of paper with the DMV. You have no gurantee they will transfer the title after the sale.