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What Is The Florida Building Code Requirement For The Depth Of A Concrete Driveway

How many 50 kg bags of cement are required for 100 ft of concrete?

Concrete is a mixture of paste, aggregates and various additives. The paste is composed of cement and water, the aggregate is composed of fine (small) and coarse (larger) aggregates, the additives as chemical admixtures. Due to the chemical reaction called hydration, the paste hardens and gains strength to form the rock-like mass known as concrete.The concrete is plastic and malleable when newly mixed but strong and durable when hardend.We know that,35.314 Cft = 1 Cum1 Cft = 1/35.314 Cum = 0.0283174 cumTherefore For 100 Cft = 100 x 0.02383174= 2.3832 CumGrades of Concrete can be divided into – Nominal Mix and Design MixNominal mix components ratio are fixed where as Design Mix may vary from location strength, workability, durability, economically feasible and availability of various components of concrete.I would like to explain cement component in Nominal Mix.Volume of Concrete for 1CumM -25 Grade (Ratio – 1:1:2)Cement = 1.54 / (1+1+2) = 1.54 / 4 = 0.385 Cum= 0.385 x 28.8 = 11.088 Bags { 1 Cum Cement = 28.8 Bags }= 11 BagsSand = 1 X 0.385 = 0.385 Cum= 0.385 x 35.314 = 13.5958 Cft { 1 Cum = 35.314 Cft }= 13.596 CftAggregate = 2 x 0.385 = 0.77 Cum= 35.314 x 0.77= 27.192 CftLike the above example we can calculate other ratios and cement content in concrete.

How thick should a concrete driveway be?

Abner gave a very good answer. The thickness of your concrete driveway is going to depend on the type of use it will have. A residential driveway will not have the same heavy loads as a commercial or industrial driveway which tend to have lots of truck traffic and a higher volume of vehicles.Reinforcement will add durability to your concrete driveway by resisting cracking.I would go 4″ to 6″ thick for a residential driveway, depending on your loading or type of use. I would use a class 35 or 40 concrete with wire mesh or rebar. It is important that the base be compacted very well and that it drain well. I would also put conduit and/or pipe under the driveway if there is any chance that you need to add or repair sprinklers and put wire under the driveway. Make sure that you have several control joints to allow the concrete to crack in controlled locations. All concrete cracks, but you have some control over where it will crack if you add control joints.A commercial driveway should have at least 6″ of class 40 concrete with a minimum #3 rebar. An industrial driveway might be a little thicker at 8″ or 9″, depending on the truck loading and volumes with a minimum of #4 bar.

How long does concrete take to cure in a residential foundation?

“Curing” does not mean what you think it does. In the technical sense, it refers to an action someone does to it to promote the maximum possible hydration of the cement etc in the concrete (ie keep the water in the concrete for as long as possible). What you mean is “gain strength” or “harden”.The answer is easy. The answer is the same as for concrete anywhere.It all depends on the recipe (ie the mix design) and the temperature.Typically, people start building on the footing after 3 or more days in more or less comfortable temperatures. Cold weather takes longer.Typically, you might expect around half of the specified strength at 7 days. and half of that at 3 days, in very round terms. Again, that all depends on what is in the concrete.

Are there general guidelines for the thickness of a concrete slab?

There are many rule of thumb estimates of slab and beam thicknesses and sizes. For slab the rule of thumb is as follows.For a 10 foot span of slab 10X12/24 = 5 inches thick.For a 12 foot span of slab 12X12/24 = 6 inches thick and so on and so on.For depth of a Concrete beam 1 inch per foot of span eg: 20 foot span = 20 inches of depth or 1 ft 8 inches.For a steel beam 1/2 inch per foot of span eg: 20 foot span 10 inches of depth.All these are rule of thumb methods to start with, You can design around these rules and you will find that you are within design parameters.I hope this helps for it gives you a pretty good guideline to start with in a design.There are many more as you go along

Should I attach the fence post(s) where my fence meets my house? How do I do it?

I'm going to be building a 6 foot tall cedar privacy fence in the spring (with pressure-treated posts) and need to determine what to do with the two posts that meet the side of my house.

In order to ensure that my 15 lb dog can't get through any cracks, I want to get the posts as close to the house as I can. If I make an 8 or 12 inch diameter hole for the post, that leaves a 2-4+ inch gap by the house, the latter of which I'm sure she could get through.

Quick specs that might help: - My siding is vinyl. - The fence posts are 4x4 pressure-treated wood. - The posts will extend 3 feet into the ground, with 6-8 inches of gravel beneath (the Rhode Island frost line is 40 inches). - The fence is 6 feet tall.

Is the best thing to do still to dig the standard hole and set the fence post in there, or should end posts at the house actually be attached via lag bolt or something along those lines?

If they are attached to the siding, should I still dig a hole or should the entire post be attached to the house?

Thanks much.

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