What Kind Of Photography Is This Lens Used For

What kind of lens should I use to photograph a 1 mm object?

A “macro” lens.While the marketing depts of lens companies use the term “macro” with abandon, the technical meaning of the word is that it produces an image on the sensor that is the same size or larger than the original object, also called “1:1 macro”.While all of the big DSLR companies have macro lenses that attach to their cameras, Canon it the default choice, particularly if you want to take pictures of VERY small objects.For the camera, I’d recommend the Canon 7Dii (crop sensors help with macro photography). Next you need a very good tripod, particularly one with a hook for a sandbag to keep everything steady. After that lighting, it is very tough to light something that small because the camera and lens gets in the way. A dedicated macro flash that attaches to the lens is the best solution.Now lenses:Canon EF-S 60mmCanon EF 100mm (2 versions)Canon EF 180mmAs well as the tilt-shift lensesAre all really great Macro lenses, they are the perfect choice for shooting anything 5mm and up, they can also capture smaller stuff.In your example of a 1mm object, if captured at 1:1, on a crop-sensor, and the whole image is printed on A4 without cropping, then the object would be about 20mm. But few printers can print this size at full resolution, so you could easily crop and print the object twice as large for very critical close-up viewing, and you’d be able to make it much bigger still for less critical or further away viewing.MP-E 65mmHowever the lens that was made for exactly his kind of shooting is the MP-E 65mm. This is a unique lens in that it renders the image on the sensor 5 times bigger than the object. Therefore our 1mm object would appear 5mm on the sensor (bare in mind that a crop-sensor is c. 15mm high). This would enable you to print VERY large very high quality images with amazing amounts of detail. There is no other lens made by any company that compares with this lens and it is the reason why Canon dominates macro photography.

Which lens is used for which type of photography?

Its a basic lens usually provided with the camera. It can be used for landscape and group shots. It would not be that great for low light and portraitsIt difficult to shoot wildlife or any frame require zoomFor macro shots you can use reverse lens techniqueAs far as quality of image goes, it comes with a price and frankly not everyone can buy L series lens. I have been happy using this piece of glass and with the cost it comes, it’s a decent lens which goes it’s work. .If you really want to see an improvement try something like this: Beginners Guide To Maximising The Potential Of Your PhotographyIts a basic kit lens, which is very cheap and ranges from 18mm to 55mm. The optics are not that great and lacks features compared to pro lenses. This is the minimal lens that you can use with a DLSR body to shoot any subject and you should not expect much from this. This lens is not ideal but OK for all purpose photography like landscape, street, portrait, etc. compromising with quality and composition many a times, and that time you will feel a need to another lens. Portraiture, wildlife, macro, low light, etc kind of photography is a big NO with this lens.

What kind of lens can I use for reverse lens macro photography?

I believe that with today’s equipment that shooting “reverse lens” is a dumb idea. It is also darn near impossible with any lens without an iris ring. It is simple and cheap today to buy two devices that make macro shooting much easier. Those would be the macro bellows, which allows the lens to be away from the camera body and the adjustment can be made to fine tune the shot. The other device is macro rings, which do the same thing, but in increments. There are usually 3 macro rings to a set that allow for 6 different distances between the lens rear element and the sensor. Pulling the lens out and away from the camera body does two things. It allows the lens to get much closer to the subject, with the penalty of the shot needing much more light for adequate exposure.When I shoot macro with a Canon camera body, I break out my EF mount macro bellows and put an old Nikon macro lens on front. I can control my iris by hand with an iris ring. If I need the camera to control a modern lens, I choose macro rings, with contacts on each ring to allow for communication between camera and lens. Reverse lens shooting? I’ve never done it and plan on never doing it. Why? I can buy either macro bellows or macro rings for most lens mounts for well under $50 for each solution.

What type of lens do you think this photographer used?

No Scheimflug - 45mm f/2.8Scheimpflug - 45mm f/2.8Scheimpflug inversed (selective focus) - 45mm f/2.8Simple: the shallow dof has been created by using a pc lens, in other words, by using the https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sc.... In short: by skewing the lens, you change sharpness in one direction. Traditionally this is done in macro photography with large technical cameras, to enlarge the depth of field. Lately however, people have started to use the effect to make depth of field smaller instead of larger, by skewing in the opposite direction. Some call it selective focus. Technically you don’t change depth of field, but change sharpness in one direction which can but must not be the same as the depth of field.In the pictures above you see a normal picture I made with a 45mm lens on a full frame camera at f/2.8, an almost identcal picture made with the same lens and aperture but with a Scheimpflug setting to increase depth of field, and another one with the same aperture with a Scheimpflug setting to decrease depth of field. (This macro pc lens is not intended to be used wide open other than very close, that’s why you see some vigneting.)The blurring in other words, is the result of the skewing of the lens in relation to the camera. The rings around the highlights however, are caused by the specific bokeh of the lens (Bokeh - Wikipedia). The bokeh as such is not very special, the Scheimpflug principle just emphasizes it strongly.As for the lens: it looks like a short tele based on the perspective. It could be a ‘real’ pc lens like the Nikon PC-E 85mm f/2.8, but then I would expect the bokeh to be smoother. It might  also be something like a lens baby Edge 80mm f/2.8 with composer Pro II pc adapter. For APS-C it would be a 50 or 60mm.You can also mimicry this shallow depth of field effect in software, but it’s not as effective and less beautiful. Many camera’s offer the effect in postprocessing, as a filter or effect. Nikon e.g. calls it the miniature effect. This photographer uses the effect very well. You should know that it takes practice and perseverance and of course talent to get good results in a situation like here.

What kind of lens would you use to photograph narrow interiors without distortion?

Any good, non-fisheye wide-angle lens can be used.The quality of the shots is more about the technique than the specific lens used.  The camera film plane (sensor) is positioned parallel to the floor and the aperture is not wide open.  The parallel film plane limits much of the distortion to increasing the sense of depth/height in the apartments.  If the film plane were not parallel to the floor unwanted distortion would distort the room by introducing a sense of greater depth on one side or corner than on the others.  You will also note that walls were also squared to the sensor as well preventing differential distortion on the sides of the apartments.  Overall the effect well crafted using the lens artistically.There may have been some post-production removal of distortion, which is readily available in Adobe and other programs.  The best such software I know of is DxO Optics, which pairs specific lenses and camera bodies to map lens distortions.  In addition they have another product, Viewpoint, that works as a Lightroom or Photoshop plugin that has the ability to remove horizontal and vertical parallel distortions simultaneously and I know no other program that can do this as well.  See my answer to Why is the bell tower in this photograph leaning over? for an example of software corrections to digital distortions.Still, no program can correct for really bad technique so kudos to the photographer.

What kind of photography is a 50mm f/1.8 best suited for?

It is best* suited for composition in which the field of view is sufficient and shallow depth of field is desirable. This typically means portraitures. Framing the subject's bust (shoulders, face) with a blurred background. But a 70mm at f/2.8 can work great as well. It's not so much the "speed" of the lens that makes it good, it's the effect of bokeh.Another good use is sports or performance photography, although 50mm is a bit too short for most. This is where speed does come into play. The photographer needs to freeze motion with a short exposure and wide aperture, or gather more light in a dim environment.A third technique is the Brenizer method. This is basically a means to simulate an ultrawide lens, massive sensor area, and ultrawide aperture. To do this you would go to full manual mode, manually focus on the part you want in focus, and take a series of photographs with overlapping edges with identical settings, then stitching them together in Photoshop or, preferably AutoPano Giga.* "best" is a rule that should be broken whenever you can.