What Parts And Tools Do I Need To Put A 4 Inch Lift On A 95 F150

Which Autozone locations perform free check engine light diagnostics?

Most AutoZone locations will generally read the OBD2 codes stored in your car’s engine computer. The stand-alone scan tools to do it start at about $20. However, this is only part of what’s necessary to actually fix your car. The car’s engine computer can tell you what particular fault(s) it detected, but any given fault could be caused by a variety of things. To figure out what you actually need to do to fix the problem generally requires some troubleshooting skills and/or the advice of a competent mechanic.All too often people will replace a failed component based on the stored code without resolving the underlying issue that caused that component to fail. AutoZone will be more than happy to sell you whatever parts you need for your car, but unless you’re replacing the right ones that’s not going to fix the problem.I’d also highly recommend investing in your own OBD2 code reader. Even though AutoZone will read the codes for free as it’s a procedure that takes about 30 seconds to do, you can buy your own code reader for under $10 that will connect to your phone via Bluetooth, or a stand-alone code reader that pulls the exact same information that the reader AutoZone uses for about $20-$30. AutoZone even sells them. That way you never have to worry about trying to figure out which locations will read your codes for you as you’ll be able to do it yourself - and reset your check engine light if necessary.

My car won't start after metal touching positive post and it smoked. Could it just be the battery or something else?

First check all your fuse’s , yes every last one of them , most cars have a large fuse panel under the hood as well as in the passenger compartment, An then you also have what's called a “ Fusible Link “ , These are normally located going to High Amp Circuits , in your car , i.e. The starter , the alt , the fuse panels , Modern Cars have dozens of these Fusible Links , An they have different ratings that depends on the wire size going to that Component ( I think there are about 6 different gauges / sizes ). What happens when in your case a Direct Short , occurs it protects the wiring An various other electric components in your car ,, they melt down when large amounts of current pass thru them , most are covered in a Fire Resistance shrink tubing type material, An they are soldered on to the wiring of the various components , So grab your self a VOM Tester , or a Test Light use one for Computer Circuits - The VOM Meter would be a better choice , An starting looking for where there is no power where there should be power going , There's a old joke We Mechanics have - wires carry smoke thru them An when you let the smoke out there no good anymore, Good Luck , An hey don't let anymore smoke outta them wires , oh An if you find out it is a fusible link - don't let the Clown at the parts store try An sell you a 25 foot roll of it , tell them you only need like a foot ( 12 inches ) of it OK , An if they tell you otherwise go to another parts store as they are idiots ,

How long does it take to put new brakes on a car?

As other answers have stated, there are a lot of variables, so I will tell you my personal experience replacing brakes on a four-wheel disc rear-wheel drive 1994 Mazda Miata for a friend:It took approximately 15 minutes to get the car jacked up, and locate all the necessary tools. It took another ten minutes to get the wheels off, as we did not have access to air or power tools. We elected to replace both the brake pads and rotors, but did not replace the calipers, or bleed the brakes (which in reality, a brake bleed and flush should have been performed). It took about 25 minutes per corner to remove the old pads and rotors, clean the brake components, lubricate the slide pins, install the new parts and reinstall the wheel when we were done. (The rear wheels were slightly longer, as it requires adjusting the brakes manually after pad replacement is complete). So, all in all, replacing the brakes and reinstalling the wheels took us about 1 hour and 40 minutes. By the time we had all the tools put away, and the car off the jack stands, we were somewhere right between 2 and 2.5 hours total. This may take longer if your car has front and/or rear drum brakes, as they can be more difficult to replace the shoes. If you have access to a lift, air or power tools, or are very familiar with doing this job on your particular vehicle, then you could probably get it done in less than 2 hours comfortably.

How hard is it to convert an automatic to manual?

Too hard. If you have to ask, seriously, it's too hard and not worth thinking about.Of course, anything is doable with enough ambition and, more importantly, money. It is done all the time, but it is very complicated and expensive and only makes sense for rare/enthusiast cars.You don’t need to be a mechanic to get the general idea. For example, you obviously will need a clutch pedal and everything that goes with it (clutch master cylinder, hydraulic lines, slave cylinder). You will need to cut the firewall, fit and mount all of those components.You will need a new shifter assembly and all of the linkages that go with it. Routing them in/through/around the interior of the car is very difficult and will require disassembling much of the interior of the car.The new transmission can be bolted to the same engine, but it will need different mounts, probably a different driveshaft, and wiring for its own sensors.Then, you will need to deal with all of the minor issues like the fact that your automatic transmission car won’t let you shift out of park without pressing the brake… and your manual transmission version will need a clutch safety sensor to make sure you can’t start the engine without holding down the clutch… and that will need to be wired into the ignition and brakes… and you will need to get rid of the old Transmission Control Module and figure out how to bypass any traction control that was built into it.On older cars (pre-1990s) it is more doable because there are less electrical components and sensors to overcome, but it’s still difficult. If you’re paying someone to do it, it would be cost prohibitive on all but the most rare and valuable cars.I know people who have done it… again, the older the car, the easier it is… but it was a huge pain and you would be better off paying an extra couple grand to find a manual version of the car you want so that you don’t spend the rest of the life of the car dealing with little follow up issues.

Why do you have to change a car's alternator when changing the battery?

Well, three possibilities here.One. You alternator failed, killing the battery. Replace the battery, test the alternator. You can't test an alternator with a failed battery. Start the car with the new battery, voltage should go up from 12.5ish to 13–14 volt range.Rev the engine slightly (2500–3000 rpm). Turn on all the electricals, lights, air conditioning, etc. If the voltage drops below 12.8 for more than a second, look at replacing the alternator. It should spring back to 13ish.Often alternators will have a modular regulator. Most parts shops can test and determine if the alternator itself is blown, or if it's just the regulator. The brushes may be gone, and are sometimes integral to the regulator. Either way, it's cheaper than a full alternator.If the alternator is bad — doesn't make voltage; or is weak — doesn't hold voltage: then fix or replace it with the battery.Check the feed cables and battery connections on the off chance they're bad. You should do this regardless.Two. This is a low probability. Your battery failed, killing the alternator. This can happen in the case I forget a dead short in one of the cells of the battery, or a near total loss of liquid in your battery. Either way the battery case will likely be distorted, or even cracked. It will have a voltage less than 9. It may even stink of rotten eggs, with a slight taste of chewing on foil.Three. Your mechanic is a liar and a thief who's trying to get more money out of your pocket and into his. If he says that you have to replace the alternator because the battery is bad, this is the case.

What are some of the things that can happen if I keep driving my car with a broken tie rod?

Tie rods have an adjustment that keeps your tires in alignment. They also provide the link between your steering wheel and the front tires. You turn the wheel, the tire rod pushes the tires left and right.Worn tie rods can cause shaky front wheels, misaligned front tires, imprecise steering, excessively worn tires. A broken tie rod would allow one tire to flop to the side causing instant loss of steering and a crash if you are going fast enough.A least, you will be wearing out your tires much faster than you should. You will be replacing those tires sooner than later.At most, a worn tie rod could cause an accident because your steering isn’t accurate.If you are still driving your car, you don’t have a broken tie rod. You may have severely worn tie rods if your front tires are wearing unevenly (can be caused by a poor alignment as well), aligning the front end doesn’t fix your tire wear problem, or your steering wheel wobbles while you drive.They aren’t that expensive to replace and much less expensive than adding a new set of tires to that cost or an accident.