How can a fuel injection engine change to a carburetor?
It depends on the engine and it's more common to go from carburetor to fuel injection not the other direction. On some engines you would still have an ECU for spark and timing control or the transmission. On other engines it's relatively straight forward.The lower intake has to be changed for one with a place to mount a carburetor. On some throttle body fuel injection setups you can swap one for the other without changing the intake. In most cases a different manifold is required.The fuel pressure for fuel injection is higher 40+psi, a low pressure pump is ideal and a fuel pressure regulator for carb level psi around 5psi. Is needed. The fuel rails or fuel lines need changed at least for the last few feet.The ignition system needs to no longer be computer controlled. That might mean an MSD style ignition box or just a coil and distributor swap, it depends on the engine and what it originally had.Your ignition and computer are probably the hardest parts, getting the engine to fire up again might take some extra effort.Air, fuel and spark will all need some attention. Going from carb to throttle body fuel injection is more common lately and it might be less effort to upgrade your fuel injection from stock to something better instead of going to a carb.On a small block Ford or Chevy it's really pretty easy to convert and probably -$1000 especially if you use used parts you could probably convert for under $500.Finding out what your car needs to start without an ECU or how to confuse it to be able to start is something you'll have to look up for the specific engine/car in question.On some engines the conversion is probably impossible without fabricating an intake manifold. Others, you can find the parts on Craigslist or the junkyard and it might only take an afternoon or two.
1988 Toyota Pickup (Hilux) - timing chain change interval?
I have a 1988 Toyota pickup. This is my first vehicle with a timing chain, as opposed to a timing belt, so I'm not familiar with what kind of servicing the timing chain may need. On my vehicles that had a timing belt, the timing belt had to changed every 60 or 90 thousand miles. I was wondering, is it the same thing for my Toyota pickup that has a timing chain? Am I supposed to change the timing chain after so many miles, like 60k or 90k? Or is the timing chain supposed to last the life of the engine? Or does it need to be checked or adjusted after so many miles? If so, then at how many miles?
What year range parts can fit a 1989 toyota pickup?
yea. your suspicion's seem to be correct Eric. i was thinking 89-95.5 as well. don't know why, but the parts interchange info shows these are the app donors, distributor and all internal parts, TOYOTA 4RUNNER DLX 1989 TOYOTA 4RUNNER SR5 (1988 - 1991) TOYOTA PICKUP (1988 - 1991) TOYOTA PICKUP DLX (1988 - 1991) TOYOTA PICKUP SHT BD DLX EXC 1991 TOYOTA PICKUP SR5 (1988 - 1991) donors for the radiator and front (a/c) fan, TOYOTA 4RUNNER DLX 1989 TOYOTA 4RUNNER SR5 (1988 - 1995) TOYOTA PICKUP (1988 - 1993) TOYOTA PICKUP DLX (1989 - 1995) TOYOTA PICKUP SHT BD DLX EXC (1991 - 1992) TOYOTA PICKUP SR5 (1989 - 1995) the rad stuff, i'd take a second look at anything from 89-95.5. might just be a subtle diff that you can work around. because this info is for *direct* fitment. not necessarily an allowable/acceptable fitment. if one can say that. i would, however, take the ignition interchange info seriously. what i do is go to http://www.rockauto.com/ search the part, click on the part **number** in Q. a pop-up appears with all other apps. but i do cross reference that with other major part suppliers. as a last resort, if i'm still unsure, or trying an "allowable" fitment, i call a wrecking/salvage yard. when it comes to parts interchange, they are the complete package. that's what they do.
Is it impossible to change a timing chain of a toyota previa?
it is a job i wish on no one it can be done with motor in van the motor kindof sets flat on this vehicle you will have to remove all kinds of things just for access it is a job for someone that has done it before. i have worked for toyota for 25 years and i would pay someone else to do it.ha ha the good thing i can tell you is those timing chains never wear out unless you got 250,000 miles if you can hear it rattle at idle it needs replacing if you are doing it just for maintance dont do it good luck
What happens if I put 20-50w oil in an engine that needs 5-30w?
It would really depend on exactly what temperature you operated the engine at.A lesson on oil viscosity. Years ago you could only buy oil at a set viscosity. Viscosity refers to how thick or thin the oil is. Thinner oil flows better but thicker oil lubricates better.So in old engines the manual might specify 30SAE oil which was a compromise between oil thin enough to run in the engine when it was cold, yet thick enough to provide lubrication when the engine was running hot.Chemists invented additives to oil that change the oils viscosity with changes in engine temperature. An Oil might have a weight of 5 SAE when cold, but as the engine warms up it ‘thickens’ up to a weight of 30 SAE. No longer having to compromise, the oil now changes to suit whatever temperature the engine is running at.New engines have an ideal range of oil weights they operate under from cold to hot. Therefore the manual will specific an oil, say 5W-30, that is the perfect range the engine designers think the engine will operate best under.Putting 20W-50 in an engine designed for 5W-30 won’t kill it right off. What will happen is that the thicker oil will be difficult to pump when the engine is cold and the motor will experience excessive wear on startup. The colder the outside temp the more wear & tear the motor will experience. At the high end of the engine operation the oil ‘could’ thicken up to the point where it can’t get in between the high tolerance parts to properly coat them. After a time this could lead to excessive wear and tear due to improper lubrication.Many hot and fast motors now use the 5W-30 range of oils because the engines are super efficient and have very low and strict tolerances that require an oil to be thin enough to get in-between them.In short, your engine won’t ‘grenade’ on you with the wrong oil, but that scenario you outlined will lead to excessive engine wear, especially operating in a really cold climate.
How to engage 4x4 on my toyota pickup?
To start with, you need to see if it has manually locking front hubs, or automatic hubs. Look at the center of each front wheel and see if there is a slotted knob that says, "Lock" or "Free". Something to that effect. If there is nothing like that in the very center of the front wheels, then you have automatic locking front hubs and you don't need to do anything to engage them. It will happen all by itself. On the floor, next to the gear shift lever, is another lever that should be marked with 2H, N, 4H and 4L. Normal driving is in 2H or two wheel high mode. The other positions are Neutral, which puts the transfer case in neutral. 4H is the same gear ratio as 2H but you have power to both front and rear axles. 4L is for off road use only and should never be used on pavement. You could break something if you use it on dry pavement. If you have automatic hubs, you should make sure you are stopped before making any change in the transfer case. If you have manual hubs and you have them locked in, or engaged, you can shift from 2H to 4H while moving, but always come to a complete stop to shift from 4H to 4L. You are changing gear ratios to about 2.00 to 1.00 in the transfer case which will mean you will only be able to go half as fast in 4L as you would in 4H, but you will have better climbing ability. When you are done using 4 wheel drive, and you have Automatic locking hubs, you must do this following shifting the transfer case back into 2H. You need to back up at least 10 feet, and further if you have the room to unlock the hubs. They automatically engage when you put it in 4 wheel drive, but you need to go backwards to disengage them when you are done using 4 wheel drive. Good luck and have fun....
Can a modern car engine fit inside an old car? If it does, can it work?
Fitting the engine in won’t be a problem. As you noted, older cars are larger with plenty of space in the engine bay. The problem you’ll have is making the newer engine work in the older car. Newer cars have multiple sensors, computers, and subsystems for traction and stability controls, transmission controls, anti-lock braking, and in some Cadillacs, even electronic controls for the shock absorbers.The bummer part is that if you remove some or all of these subsystems, the engine management system may not function properly to run the engine normally.A better option for your purpose would be to buy what is called a “crate motor”, which is a motor specifically designed to be used in multiple types of vehicles. GM makes crate motors, and sells them through Chevrolet dealerships. Here’s one that might interest you:LSA Crate Engine - Race EngineThe LSA V8 is the same motor used in the Cadillac CTS-V, and if you add the “connect and cruise” option, it would be relatively easy to drop this motor into an older car.
Is a 2000 Toyota Tacoma with 200000 miles to much?
Im looking at buying this truck but im not sure if it has to many miles on it becasue it has 201000 miles on it but looks new everywhere on the truck it has most of its service records But how many more miles could I put on this truck if I where to buy it? (On average how long do the engines last)
Book value for a 1988 toyota pickup?
I own a 1988 toyota pickup, xtra-cab, 4 whl drive, in decent condition, runs good, new radio, with almost 200,000 miles, and nice newer tires. i cant find the book value for in anywhere online....not even in kellie blue book....anyone able to help me on a good estimate? thanks in advance!!