What are reasons your steering wheel won't lock?
I assume that you are referring to your steering wheel not locking in position after you stop the vehicle and take out the key?There are several possible reasons for this.1. The cog that fits into the detent on the steering column is broken and needs to be replaced.2. The detent on the steering column is worn or broken3. You have not turned the wheel far enough for the cog to find a detent. Pull the wheel first to the left, and then to the right to find the spot.4. The actuator from the solenoid to the cog is broken.To repair this will require the cover on the steering column to be removed, and probably need to have the steering wheel removed as well. Take it to a qualified shop or dealer for this. Incorrect actions could result in damage to the parts, or even the deployment of the air bag on the steering wheel. The exact disassembly required will differ for each manufacturer and possible model of vehicle. If you have a Chilton's manual for your vehicle, you can look up the repair to see what is involve.
Hard to get in reverse Yamaha Beartracker 250?
Each time I crank my Yamaha ATV up then try to put it in reverse I can't. I put it in netural then try to move the bottom left lever located at or below knee level, the reverse lever won't bludge. Then when I put it in 1st I am able to move this left lever back then it pops into reverse. Why is it so hard to put in reverse? I have a dislocated left shoulder which doesn't help. It this the normal procedure to put this Beartracker 250 in reverse?
What causes a car to lose power while driving?
In modern cars with engine management systems, it is the system itself that reduces power if it detects a problem with the engine. A warning light will come and and the engine will go into 'limp home' mode, where speed it usually limited to 80km/h or lower. Any number of things can cause this, but usually it relates to loss of something important, like a coolant leak, or low oil pressure. Sometimes it can also be a false positive due to a fault in the management system itself.All internal combustion engines require three things to work; compression, fuel and ignition. Degradation of any one of theses will result in lower engine performance.Loss of compression can result from engine wear, common in engines with several hundred thousand kilometers on the clock. Engine efficiency is lost because gasses can escape past the piston rings. Mechanical failure such as a blown head gasket can cause a similar loss.Blockages or degradation of the fuel supply, such as a worn fuel pump will cause loss of power for obvious reasons.Ignition faults stem from things such as a cracked distributor head, worn spark plugs, worn ignition coil or faulty spark plug leads. They generally result in some cylinders not igniting the fuel/air mix, thus reducing the power.Loss of lubricant or coolant will cause the engine to overheat and then seize. In this case, loss of power is 100%.Worn bearings in the engine will usually not reduce power much, they will keep working, making more and more noise, and then fail catastrophically, causing the engine to seize.It is also possible for timing chains to slip, adjustment screws to loosen in the carburetor, exhaust manifolds to develop leaks , and other minor mechanical faults to occur that will reduce engine power. This can happen suddenly or gradually over time.
1999 Bayliner 3.0 Mercruiser - Keeps blowing ignition fuse - Help! Summer almost over.?
I have read so many different articles on this subject but, not sure how to specifically diagnose. Details of my issue are as follows: There is no circuit breaker or no inline fuse. The ignition fuse is under the dash. I have never had this happen before. Over 14 years enjoyment. This year, after only 2 successful outing, initially, when the boat was idling it would not blow. I have moved around wires while idling to try to find a loose or questionable connection at dash and in engine compartment with no luck. When I took it to just over 25 mph is when it happened the first time. Engine cut off and no power to gauges. Blower and radio circuits still fine. Putting it in and out of neutral fine. After replacing fuse 3 times (first 2 blew out consecutively when I turned the key) it seemed to be fine. Start fine, idle fine, shake wires trying to find culprit ... nothing. Went out again yesterday and as soon as after I hit around 25 mph for a while the engine started to cut off (like before) and fuse went again. Replace the fuse 4 times and blows out consecutively. Have not gotten any further than that. One thing I noticed was that the battery console gauge was jumping around actively when the engine was cutting off. Also, during the last outing, when the first fuse was blown out it was just about melted (came out in 2 pieces).
How do you know if your distributor cap/rotor is bad?
Pop it loose from the distributor and carefully look inside for carbon tracking, cracks or small beads of moisture with a small pen flashlight. Look at the center carbon button that rides on the rotor spring. If it's worn or chipped the Cap should be replaced. Externally the center coil wire sometimes corrodes and burns creating high resistance. *If at all possible replace the cap with the following brands: Standard blue colored, Accell tan colored or the best is a red colored MSD. Replace the rotor at the same time. The reason the caps with color are better they have higher dielectric strength. If you're looking for quality and a bargain MSD and AC-Delco ignition wires have less OHM's of resistance and the outer insulation jackets are stronger than Motorcraft wires. If you do change the wires, pick up a tube of silicone ignition grease from NAPA or Carquest to liberally wipe on the inside of the distributor cap boots and spark plug boots. This step keeps water out and helps a ton the next time you remove the wires from either end.
Why did my car shake and the check engine light flash while stopped at a light?
What you experienced was almost certainly a misfire event and the cause may be recorded as a diagnostic trouble code (DTC) in the engine controller’s memory. Most failures that are significant enough to cause MIL illumination will record a trouble code and its environmental/ data information from the moment, even if the MIL is no longer lit. Onboard Diagnostics work constantly to keep the MIL off, looking for a reason to turn the CE light out if the condition hasn’t been seen again recently, eventually even erasing trouble codes if all’s good. I can only speculate on the nature of your event, but a thorough scan to retrieve codes and freeze frame data of the moment will often shed some light on the situation.Misfires come in many flavors, ranging from slight loss of performance in a single cylinder, to one or more holes being completely dead. Your description of shake at an idle implies a power imbalance, which usually involves complete loss of performance, but just one hole.Barring an at-home scanner being available, rolling the ignition key from LOCK to RUN three times, then leaving it in the RUN position at the end will initiate the customer code-read feature, spilling any matured codes stored in the PCM through the instrument cluster’s odometer window. All codes will be four digits in length, beginning with the letter P, such as P0123. DTC information can be found at OBD2-OBDII Engine Light Trouble Codes Definitions, Description and Repair Information online.One-trip failures - those that have not quite matured - will not be displayed in this feature, but will show up on a high-end scanner if present.If only a single cylinder misfire code is retrieved, pull the coil and spark plug to inspect for signs of flashover - black marks on the upper spark plug insulator and inner coil boot that will not scratch off with a fingernail. Flashover is pretty common on coil-on-plug ignition systems and the cure is to replace both the boot and spark plug together. Worn plugs tend to incite this sort of situation as spark will always seek the path of least resistance.If your DTC list includes an injector control circuit code that matches the cylinder of misfire, chances are good that the injector is at fault. The injector may test as completely normal when cooler, but will go to an open circuit once heated, either naturally or with a heat gun.