I want to get a Kawasaki Ninja ZX-6R for my first bike. What are some concerns that experienced motorcyclists have right away?
There are no absolute universal truths on this subject, and opinions are strongly divided.I’ve known people who have passed their tests and taken immediate access to things like CBR1000F (not the 1000RR Fireblade, the *old* 1000F - Truck Drivers’ Sportsbike :-) ) Despite the predictions of imminent, violent death, these riders survived.I’ve also seen totally unnecessary crashes caused by inexperienced riders getting in too deep on too much bike, or riding too close to their own limits, so that all situations become perceived emergencies.First thing is: the throttle turns both ways and the brake is not an on/off switch. If you ride like an asshole, you stand a good chance of being wiped out early, whatever you’re riding.However, a note of caution: Depending on the model, you’ve got 90 - 110 bhp on tap. That’s enough to get you into a heap of trouble, very, very quickly.With more experience, you don’t get quicker reactions to deal with trouble. You do, however, get to benefit from (at least):being able to spot the things that could become dangerous before they actually doan organised approach to riding that enables you to plan your “out” from the danger that you identified earlySpotting the hazards early allows you to react appropriately (and timely), rather than in panicthe ability to filter out the irrelevant stuff that’s going on around you, so you can concentrate on what’s really important (believe me, when you’re making “enthusiastic” use of 100 bhp on a bike, you’re not going to process everything, so you’d better make sure that you process the right things)By all means, if you want to get the Ninja, do it, but please treat it with the respect it needs, and give serious consideration to a proper training program (and I don’t mean just up until you get your licence; an advanced course is money and time well spent)Finally, whatever you ride, remember to always “ride your own ride”. Do not try to keep up with the guy in front, because the guy in front might be Valentino Rossi.Have fun, and keep it sticky side down :-)
What is the cause of white smoke from the exhaust and fuel smell?
White smoke and the smell of raw gas out the exhaust. Is a definite sign of running rich.Condensation well mostly disappear. Along with not having the smell of gas vapors. Once the engine reaches operating temp.Are there any check engine lights displaying. From the ECU/PMC throwing a error code. Causing the engine to run limp mode?When was the last time the fuel pressure was checked? Too much will extra gas, pass through the injectors. Much like changing the Injector Pulse Width MAP.A hanging injector will mostly likely cause cylinder(s) to fill with gas. Depending on what intake valves are open, along with intake manifold. The fuel system stays pressurized, even tho fuel pump is shut off. Allowing the pressure to bleed off through the injector(s). By keeping the system under pressure. Allows for quicker starts. Because there is no lag, while the fuel pump rebuilds the lost pressure.Running that rich can/will cause the oil film. On the cylinder walls, getting washed off leading to scuffing.I could see the white smoke, smell the gas. When adjusting fuel pressure on my super charged CRX Sir, may it R.I.P....
I changed the spark plugs, Why is my engine light blinking now?
On most cars I’ve driven, a flashing check engine light means something is very seriously wrong. That means don’t drive the car till you’ve fixed it.An OBD2 scanner is pretty much a necessity for working on modern cars. They don’t even cost that much anymore. Plug it into your OBD port, and it’ll most likely tell you what’s happening to make the check engine light flash. Look up the code and error message on google or youtube, and you can most likely find a description of how to fix it.If it says something vague, and then think about what you did and what the problems might be. If changing the plugs was ALL you did, there are a few things that come to mind as the first things I’d check. Think about what you touched, and what those parts do for the engine. The plugs, wires and coil are all things you might have disturbed or miss-installed, and they all have to do with ignition. My thought is that you might have one or more misfiring cylinders. An engine will continue to run, although poorly, with a surprisingly large fraction of its cylinders failing to fire, but the computer that controls it will see this as a pretty serious problem, and either detect the misfires directly, detect the extra oxygen in the exhaust, or both.Are all your spark plug wires back in place and making good contact with the terminals, both at the plug end and the coil end?If you have ‘coil over’ plugs, are the connectors to the individual coils tight?Did you check gap on all your plugs before you put them in? If the gap is too small or too large, the plug can fail to spark or spark so weakly it doesn’t ignite the gas.Did you tighten all your plugs to the proper torque? A loose plug can result in a misfire due to lack of compression.Did all the plugs have their crush washers, or was one missing?Did you reinstall all the plug wires to the correct plugs, or are some of your cylinders firing out of sequence?Are all your spark plug wires in good condition, or were some damaged during your work? It doesn’t take much damage to high voltage wiring before sparks come out at the wrong places.Is the coil in good condition? Is it dry? If you had the hood open in the rain, a wet coil can malfunction, as rainwater is quite conductive at high voltage. The plastic shell on an old coil can get brittle, and working with it can crack the insulation. Oily gunk on the coil can bake into a carbon layer that’s conductive and short out the coil too.
Is it normal for a bike to turn off when there is no oil?
Older bikes, or cheaper bikes, may only have an ‘idiot light’ that comes on if the oil pressure isn’t sufficient to keep the engine lubricated. Sometimes there will only be a sight glass that you can use to view the oil level. They won’t have any manner of ‘cutoff’ that shuts off the motor due to low or no oil pressure. In these cases, running a bike without oil means you’ve likely:Seized up the pistonsLocked the clutchDamaged the transmissionThis is because in most bikes, all three components use the same oil. It’s not like a car engine where you have transmission fluid or grease, engine oil, and a dry or wet clutch arrangement.if the above is the case, and the bike now refuses to “turn over”, you’re likely facing a HUGE repair job, and you might be better off parting out the bike, selling all the bits that are still OK (wheels, brake parts, bodywork, wiring harness, frame), and then buying another bike. The engine is pretty much toast, and since the transmission and clutch are housed in the same case, it’ll be a lot of work to rescue them too.Some newer, higher-end motorcycles may have an anti-self-destruct cutoff based on oil pressure. But I’d not count on such a feature.THUS, if your bike ever lights up the Oil Pressure warning light, get it looked at ASAP. If your bike is leaking oil, get the seals repaired. If it’s burning oil, get the piston rings and valves redone. If you can’t afford that kind of work, then always (always always!) top off the oil before you ride, and carry an extra quart or two with you so that when the oil level gets low you can fill it back up as needed.To do otherwise is a good way to turn a perfectly good motorcycle into junk.
Will my 2004 Yamaha r6 handle a cross country trip?
That is nothing for that bike but you, this is a track bike and it's made for comfort over 100 mph. If you ride posted speeds your arms and shoulders take a beating. If you ride around 100 mph constantly your rear tire last about 2000 miles and your front about 4000. That is with medium hard compound rubber.