Why does my 60 amp fuse keep blowing?
Got a p600-1bd amp. 2 12" p2's wired at 2 ohm's and 4 awg power and ground cables. my 60 fuse next to the battery snapped earlier today. i put the 4 awg in before it happened. any help? (my gain is turned down as well, and i had an 8 awg in before the change)
My amp keeps blowing fuses?
I have a 3000 watt bass Inferno amp that I only use a little more them half the the power (around 1700 watts) and i have a 1200 watt Db link 4 guage wiring kit. Every time I turn on my car my amp over heats and/or my fuse from the battery to the amp blows out, I only check the fuse after I have turned the car on for a second time, so is The problem the amp blows the fuse when I turn the car on a second time or what? What s the problem? Are my wires not strong enough for the amp? Any help is needed Thanks
My amp keeps blowing fuses what does that mean?
If you are referring to the fuses on the amp itself, (not main power fuse), a few things come to mind. Gain too high, damaged speaker/s, ground not good enough, loose main cables, internal amp damage. Could be many things. Check the ohm load of your speakers first, in my opinion.
Why does my amp keep blowing fuses?
When you say blowing the amps fuse, do you mean the inline fuse (should be near battery) or the fuse inside of the amp? I would say the amp isn't configured correctly. It's trying to draw too much power. You can put as big of a sub as you want on there, you just have to adjust the amp properly for it.
My amp keeps blowing subs...is there something wrong wit it.?
i have a memphis pr.200.2 amp(500watt max-240rms)(hits harder than alot of 1000watt amps) and i've had it on 3 different set ups. 1st i had it on 2 12" mtx subs which didnt blow, 2nd i had it on 1 15" memphis pr sub which blew in about a week but didnt blow the fuses in the amp, and 3rd i had it on a brand new power acoustic 15" sub with a 1300watt max and a 550watt rms that i blew in about 30 mins with the volume down to allow it to break in alittle. but this time it did blow both fuses. the sub only plays at low volume and when you turned it up the amp goes off. i put the sub in my buddies car jus to see if it would do the same and it did off his amp so then i knew it was blown. can someone tell me if its just bad luck with the subs or is there something that could go wrong with an amp and cause it to blow subs?
Why does my 25 amp power-wire fuse keep blowing?
I have 2 12" Jensen subs and a 900 Jensen mono channel amp. everything has worked just fine for about 2-3 months and my power wire fuse blew the other day after i had been driving for about 15 min. Now every time i try to replace the fuse it just blows as soon as i turn the car on. i even tried turning down the settings on the amp and this didn't help, can anyone help me??
Subwoofer\Amplifier Fuse Keeps Blowing?
I have a question about my car stereo. I am running 2 15' Rockford fosgate punch P2 subwoofers in a homemade box in an 01 golf gti. I was using a precison acustiks 4000 watt class d mono at 2 ohms but it went bad after about 1 month of use (kept blowing fuses when subs were turned up) until one day i would turn on my stereo and it would blow the fuse immediately. According to my auto teacher who hooked up this whole System up the Amp was no good. i went through about 20 blown fuses in my wiring kit (using 4 gauge wire kit all around i believe) it wasnt the best kit but it should be good enough to handle the power. Anyway i went through all those fuses and then decided to try out my friends rockford fosgate p1000 amp after 3 weeks of no music. i upgraded to a double din kenwood headunit from a single din kenwood which also should help. after using the p1000 amp for about a day, listening to my subwoofers i blew another fuse again. It's only when I'm listening to them loud, or when my car hasn't been warned up. Theses fuses arn't cheap they are the higher rating ones that are in a little glass tube thing which fit in to a terminal at the end of the wiring kit. I don't understand why this is happening, my subs are only 500 watt rms each, and I leave the gain not to high so the amp should be able to handle them. I'm using the stock battery, and have a 2farad capacitor hooked up which I'm not sure is really helping or working. My friend is running a 12 alpine type x off the p1000 amp for the longest time and bumps it louder then me and his fuse never blows (has a crappier wiring setup as well). I'm pretty sure all the wires are correct and the ground is hooked up just right. Someone please help me as to why this is happening. Any help would be appreciated!
Why does my brake light fuse keep blowing out?
If none of your three brake lights is working, it's doubtful that all of the individual bulbs have burned out. It's far more likely you have an electrical system problem. It may sound complicated and expensive, but don't worry. Odds are the electrical system trouble is nothing more than a failed brake light system fuse.Each part of the car's electrical system corresponds to a fuse, which protects it from amperage overload; if one electrical component blows out, the rest of the car doesn't get fried. If the fuse fails, electricity can't reach the lights, which may be in fine working order otherwise.Like all fuses, the brake light system fuse can be found in the power distribution centre, which is under the dashboard or tucked away underneath the hood. Never heard of the power distribution centre? It's just the technical name for a fuse box. Using your car's manual, locate the fuse that correlates to the brake lights.You'll need a connect test light for the next step (you can get one at any auto parts store.) Turn your car's ignition to the "on" position, grab the connect test light and attach it to a ground, like the dash or the body of the car, and gently press the tip of the tester to each of the fuse's two ends. Now, press down lightly on the gas pedal. Does the test light illuminate? If so, the fuse is functional, and the problem most likely is a used-up brake light bulb. If, however, the test light illuminates when the connection is only pressed against one side of the fuse, the fuse is faulty. If the test light fails to light at all, regardless of where it's connected to the fuse, you definitely need to replace the fuse.But wait, you're not done -- once you put in a new fuse, you'll need to test it again. If both lights trigger, the fuse is working and the repair is complete. If the new fuse doesn't work while you have a foot on the pedal, the circuit itself is shorted out. That's a more complicated and expensive fix, which will need to be handled by a professional mechanic.Hope it helps.
Why does my 3 amp control board fuze keep blowing on my furnace?
It blows because the red wire in your thermostat is touching ground. You could have a short outside at you a/c unit where an animal has chewed into it or a weed eater has damaged it: That is usually where I find them. Of course you could have a bad board, but that is unusual. Don't use a different fuse, or you will have a bad board.