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Why Does My Tranny Make A Scratching Noise At Startup Than Go Away When Driving

What does it mean if your starter is making a grinding noise?

Honda Accord /Civic :Why Starter Making Grinding Noise1.Flywheel should be suspect firstly.You need go ahead and climb back under your 2006 Honda Civic or 2007 Honda Accord and remove the access panel under the bell housing of the transmission. This will give you access to the flywheel. Using a flashlight you can inspect the teeth on the flywheel for any abnormal wear, then use a ½ inch ratchet and correct size socket for the crankshaft pulley bolt, and turn the engine clockwise. This will allow you to slowly inspect the hidden areas of the flywheel that could be damaged. Be sure to mark the flywheel with white out or a marker so you can verify when you start and end as you rotate. If at any time you feel uncomfortable doing this, please enlist the assistance of a certified mobile mechanic. After check ,if the flywheel is damaged ,it will need to be replaced.2.If you are unable to see any issues with the flywheel itself, then the problem may lay in the electrical components of the vehicle.Some of the most common electrical problems are corroded electrical connections, an undercharged or bad battery, or a malfunctioning component:bad neutral safety switch (automatic transmission),bad clutch safety switch (manual transmission),bad starter relay,bad starter solenoid,corroded electrical connections in the starting circuit,worn-out part in the starter motor or some other system component.For example,the ignition switch has failed to supply proper voltage to the starting circuit causing the starter solenoid to partially engage which can create a grinding noise .In this case,you could check the battery/relay/solenoid /ignition switch.If it’s a small problem,you could buy some aftermarket replacements then fix it.If you aren’t sure and don’t know how to do ,maybe a new starter at hexautoparts for your honda accord civic or a certified mechanic can get you back on the road quickly and safely.Anyway,if you hear a harsh or grinding noise as you try to crank up the engine, you may have a loose starter motor (mounting bolts), or a flywheel or pinion gear with broken or worn-out teeth. If the gears on the flywheel and pinion aren't able to mesh properly, all you hear is the sound of metal teeth clashing loudly.Hope that helps.

Grinding noise when driving, maybe inside transaxle?

Put the car up and check your CV joint. Any grinding or rubbing noise and no indication of a bad wheel bearing very well could be a CV joint on it's way out where it's a frontwheel drive car. They tend to be pretty loud complainers when they are on the way out.

Do you have any cracks in the CV joint boot? Is it split? Do you see grease coming out of it or has come out? If it isn't the joint it's possible to be the joint on the transaxle itself as well. But if it sounds closer to the wheel and it's not a wheel bearing the next closest thing is going to be CV joint.

A good way to test it also is to put the car in reverse, crank the wheel and go in a circle. Then go in reverse the other way (to test both sides). If the noise gets WORSE and you hear it grind it's very likely the CV joint as the culprit.

Another way to absolutely rule out a wheel bearing is to jack the car up so the tire is up in the air. There should be no play in the wheel (as in you shouldn't be able to rock it back and forth). If there isn't, you can't rule it out when it's up on stands then start looking at the transaxle and the CV joint.

Why does my transmission slip only when it is cold?

I own a transmission shop, and the #1 cause for this is the transmission is low on fluid. Fluid expands & contracts to heat, and when it gets warm the fluid expands enough to work properly. Check the fluid level this way. Run the vehicle until its hot, park on level ground, engine running, place in park, and check the level at least 6-8 times, and if you look at both sides of the stick you will see its lower on one side than it is the other, so you must go by the lower reading. The reason for this is, when you pull the stick out, it will drag fluid up the tube with it, and a false reading is very easy to do. It sounds like you are about 1/2 of a quart low, or better. Don't over fill the transmission, and if you do you will have to use a hand pump to pull some back out through the fill tube. If its not low, then its sucking air somehow around the new filter you installed. A common mistake is installing the gromet for the filter into the valve body without removing the old one, or damaging the new one or the transmission case by scratching it when removing the old gromet. If it was scratched, then use some 400 grit sandpaper to remove these scratches, and use a socket with a shot extension to install the new gromet up in the case. These gromets are really hard to install with the transmission in the vehicle, so I do it with a socket that fits the seal, but doesn't hit the case. They make a tool for this, but a socket of the right diameter will work ok. I have seen the filter just fall out back into the pan and cause this too.
Advance Auto parts carries some stuff called Lubeguard that you can get to put in the transmission that will help with the shifting issues. The valves in them will stick, and cause the shift issues, and this rings especially true when the weather is cold outside.
You would be looking at about $1,200 - $1,600 for a rebuild depending on where you live. You could get a good used one from a junkyard with low mileage for about $800, plus installation. This transmission is not a cheap one to have done, and may even run as much as $2,000 in some area's.
Glad to help out, Good Luck!!!

Why does my car jerk slightly when shifting into reverse?

all automatics do this. Regardless of gear the magnitude, the jerk is a function of drivetrain and suspension slop, clutch pressure and condition, clutch engagement setting, transmission fluid properties, idle speed.If the jerk is extreme and changes engine RPM by more than 100RPM, you certainly have a problem. beware, it’s easy to get either ripped off or spend heavily. Start by checking idle speed, then inspecting/changing fluid, then inspecting suspension. then check the transmission and drivetrain for slop, wear, damage, starting at a driveshaft shop.Your low mileage car could suffer from the hands of an abusive and jerky driver, a driver who spent long hours shearing transmission fluid stopped in traffic, or a transmission defect.Without mechanical service, you can reduce the jerk by not stepping on the brake as you change gears, and shifting to neutral every time you must idle for more than 20 seconds.

What is the short whistle sound that we hear when shifting transmission in fast cars?

If it’s turbocharged, that’ll be the dump valve. Sometimes called a blow off valve. The turbo is spinning while working to force air into the engine while you have your foot on the gas. As soon as you let off the gas to change gear, the work of the engine temporarily stops yet you still have a turbo spinning at many thousands of rpm. To prevent the boost pressure backing up against it and stalling the turbo, the dump valve opens, blows off the excess pressure allowing the turbo to carry on spinning (a little slower). Now when you get back on the gas the turbo doesn’t have to get up to speed from a standing start.The little whistle, whine, chirp, squeak, whatever you call it, is the boost pressure being released from the valve into the engine bay or recirculated back into another part of the air intake.

What happens if you put your car in park when you are driving?

It sure would make a lot of noise as the parking pawl ground away at the gear! Quickly destroying the gear/pawl used for Park, the vehicle would coast on until you selected a different drive gear. Then , a trip to a service facility to repair and clean your transmission would be in order. Actually, the resulting noise would make you immediately stop your action. The transmission would NOT be able to actually engage the Parking mechanism at (nearly any) speed.

Can old spark plugs cause the engine to make a grinding noise?

what happens if you have bad/old spark plugs?
I know the combustion isnt all that good, but can you permanently damage the engine? Or, is it just worse performance and less miles per gallon?

When I accelerate from a complete stop the RPMs will drop from about 2,500 to 2,000 even while I am still accelerating. Once this happens, something kicks in, and the car makes a very short squealing/squeaking noise that almost sounds like the wheels have spun. It feels like pressure builds up and then releases once the noise is made. This doesn't happen all the time, but perhaps every 3-4 starts/stops. The engine will sometimes make a grinding noise as well under the same conditions -- especially after going up a hill. can this be caused by old plugs?? Its no a back-fire feeling, though -- more like going over rumble strips on the highway...

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