Clutch sticks to floor in 88 RX7 conv.?
Ron is for the most part correct, but is missing a few items based on firsthand ownership experience. If this suddenly started occurring, bleeding the system will not correct it. If the pedal stays down, the Slave Cylinder has failed. If the pedal pushes down but doesn't disengage the clutch, the Master Cylinder has failed. It is common knowledge among rotary owners that if one has failed, its partner is going to very fail soon after replacing the first one. Replace both at the same time. Both are easy to do, using only a ratchet & 10mm socket and are either visible (slave cylinder, top of transmission bellhousing), or can be found by feel (master cylinder, follow the clutch pedal under the dashboard). Before doing this, invest in a set of Metric flare fitting wrenches because it is very easy to round off a fitting with a normal open wrench. I've had excellent results with these: http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-met... Read this, bookmark it and become a member: http://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-sp... Included in the above link is the Factory Service Manual. Stay away from Autozone and the shitty Haynes manual. I bought one when replacing the stereo in my FC the first month I had the car and found that manual to have several glaring errors such as glossing over the factory amplifiers. Returned the manual the same day and downloaded the FSM. http://www.mazdatrix.com/f-hydral.htm Mazdatrix is leery about trying to rebuild clutch hydraulics. Their experience has often proven correct.
Could a bad clutch master cylinder cause clutch to engage too high on pedal travel?
it is possible ,but check adjustments 1st
Are these signs of worn out clutch?
I am having the following signs in my car, should I change my clutch? 1. I hear a screetching sound (rusty sound) when I remove my foot from the clutch pedal. This happens at least 3 times / hour. 2. It is sometimes difficult for me to switch from gear 2 to gear 1, I switch to gear 0 (neutral) then try 2 or 3 times until gear 1 gets engaged. I don't have any issues shifting to other gears. 3. Sometimes when I press harder on gas pedal, instead of accelerating, the car just shakes, this is more clear when I am on gear 2 or gear 3.
What does the clutch pedal do?
if you have to ask that quetion you do not need to be driving a standard
Should I press the clutch when starting the engine?
It's purely a SAFETY issue. Being forced to push the clutch pedal because there is a start switch connected to it is one reason to push the pedal. Pushing it in to be safe is another reason to do it. If your transmission is in neutral, there is no MECHANICAL reason to push in the clutch pedal, unless there is a start switch connected to it. I learned to drive using a 3-speed manual transmission in 1969. I'm driving a 5-speed manual transmission today. My vehicle will start with the clutch pedal up. It is so engrained in my brain that I have not started the vehicle in gear (by accident) in decades. But maybe YOU should push in the clutch pedal.
While slowing down, is it harmful to press the clutch along with the brakes in a manual car?
It’s not harmful, but you may get a jolting or jerky ride and may get increased brake wear if you don’t do it correctly. You may also wear the clutch out if you only depress it to the biting point where it is not slipping 100%.If you are learning to drive you will get lots of false advice on this subject. Almost everyone will say brake first. In fact it depends on your speed, what gear you are in and whether you are going uphill, downhill or are on the flat. It can also depend on how your engine management system is programmed.If you want to slow smoothly you should consider how much engine braking you will get by coming off the gas. At high engine revs in low gears engine braking is considerable. At low engine speeds in high gears it is negligible. If you brake when going very slowly in some cars they will speed up as the engine management increases the revs as it suspects the car may be on the way to stalling.If coming off the gas will cause the car to slow down more than is comfortable or necessary put the clutch down first. Then release the gas as the clutch goes through the biting point. Your gas foot can now move to the brake. This tactic is generally used at speeds of below 20mph.At higher speeds in higher gears engine braking will not slow you down as sharply and so you can comfortably benefit from it. It can also save fuel to use engine braking, as the fuel supply is shut off on the over-run on many modern cars. Then once you get down to about 20mph you can depress the clutch.Over-run is where the engine is being turned by the kinetic energy of the car rather than the chemical energy of the fuel.