Ask a question

Will You Fix Anti-theft System On By 95 Cadallic Sts By Replacing The Computer And Steering Wheel

How to bypass auto theft security system on my 95 cadillac seville sts?

Sorry Rick29148, you're wrong on this one. GM uses a system called VATS. (PATS is Ford) Vats is known for failing and there are a few different ways to bypass it. The security, antitheft or lock picture/icon is a visual indication that something in the car's antitheft system is failing. In most GM cars and trucks there is a hidden system that most people are unaware even exists. From the moment you put your key in the ignition, there begins a constant line of communication between your key's security chip or transponder, to the ignition's lock cylinder, and then to the car's TDM (Theft Deterrent Module). These 3 parts are in CONSTANT communication. If the key is in the ignition, then these parts are sending signals to each other. The security light illuminates when that signal gets broken, even just for a second. When the signal breaks, the car misinterprets this as an attempt at theft and goes into antitheft mode. The car thinks its being stolen or hotwired because it is not getting that signal from YOUR specific key. This is why the security light turns on and shuts down your vehicle. This link explains it pretty well.
http://vatspasslockpasskeysecurityhelp.y...

Possible, but not exactly easy.Assuming your make/model had steering wheel controls as an available option, you are going to need to find a donor vehicle that has them, to harvest parts from. In addition to the wheel itself, you will need the clockspring and column harness (or the entire steering column), as well as whatever accessories the wheel mounted controls talk to, and their associated wiring harnesses. This could be the audio system, navigation system, cruise control, security system, whatever. I wouldn’t even consider a project like this without an excellent knowledge of automotive electrical systems, and a complete set of OEM service information (factory shop manual) with complete wiring diagrams. After swapping all the new parts into your car and getting them all hooked up, they still may not work until programmed properly, which may involve a trip to the dealer, where any vehicle warranty will likely be voided because of the work you have done.If you want to add these kind of controls to a car that never offered them from the factory, you will need some serious fabrication skills to make adapters and custom wiring harnesses, in addition to all the above stuff.

Back in the days of dashboard ignition switches it was an easy matter to bypass the switch, making it super-easy for car thieves.  The switch was relocated to the steering column and the locking mechanism added as a theft deterrent - they might get your car started, but they wouldn't be able to steer it.Various locking methods have been used over the years, but one of the most common in use today drops a rugged pawl into one of the notches inside the main steering ring.Older variants actually thrust a solid steel pin through the steering wheel hub to prevent it from turning.The full weight of your car is trying to turn the front wheels and, by extension, your steering wheel.  When the engine is running, the power steering makes it easy to resist this behavior - with the engine off (or power steering otherwise inoperable), you have to overcome all that force by yourself.With the engine off and steering lock engaged the steering hub acts like a vice, clamping the pin/rod/pawl in place.  In order to move the pin/rod/pawl, you must reduce the friction holding it in place by turning the steering wheel against the pressure created in the system by the weight of your car.

What does a "remote anti-theft alarm system" do?

The alarms are set at the door for the reason of preventing theft. If the alarm goes off, and you are the one that set it off, then the individual has every right to request your receipt so they can see you purchased the item that needs to be detagged. If you refuse to show the receipt, then they can request you remain until a police officer shows up to do the search. The alarm going off IS probable cause. And I will also tell you that not all of the alarm "sensors" on merchandise can be easily removed (like stickers, and the like). Some of the tags require a certain device to be removed or they could ruin the merchandise you purchased (ink tags are a perfect example). Without showing the receipt, no store is going to remove a sensor device from a piece of merchandise for you. You worry about forfeiting your rights, but I see you don't care about the retail workers' right to get a good raise, instead of having it cut by the loss that shoplifters cause. It isn't just petty little items like candy bars - there are game units, computers, cameras, and so on. Shoplifting is big business, and if it weren't then people wouldn't do it. I worked in retail for many years, and yes - cashiers make mistakes. But I was also on the receiving end of the butt chewing from the customer that had to come back to the store because they left the store with a sensor item that can't be removed without a certain unit. Most of them refused search of their bags, and the assets protection person was too busy to wait with them for the police to come and do the search. In most states, once you are past the point of purchase, and an alarm goes off, you are required to submit to the requested search. It is due to shoplifting. That is why the alarms are at the doors, and not right at the checkouts. Just allow the search. Because if I am the person that you meet, and you won't allow the search, then you will be waiting for the police to come and do the search. I think that is more of an inconvenience - and embarrassment - than just letting the person at the door do their job quickly. I am sure you would like people to allow you to do your job and not make it worse. Well, that is all these people are doing - they are not looking to bother you or cause you problems - they are doing customer service.

1995 BMW 318i How to reset the Anti Theft system?

The other day I had a flat and had the Car towed to my house to get the tire replaced.. but after having the car towed the car will not restart now.. somehow the Anti Theft system thats built in to the car is now on.. and will not let the car start.. So of course the Dealer says to have the car towed to there place and they would charge me like 200 dollars to get it all fixed... but it would cost me around 100 dollars to get the car just towed to there place and right now I can not afford even that after just paying for another tire... So is there any help out there for me???? Can there be a way to reset there computer to reset the Anti Theft System? Maybe pulling a fuse or the ECM Module? What can I do. I'am thinking there has to be a way.. Since I still have the Key, why won;t it start the car now.. lol You can also email me at james40601@gmail.com

How do I bypass the PATS anti-theft system on my 1997 Ford Expedition or reset it so it'll start with my key?

It's going to take some time and patience, but this should help.

Put the key in the ignition and turn it to the run position.

Theft indicator proves out after 2 seconds and then flashes rapidly.

After 15 minutes of flashing, The theft indicator will stop flashing.

Within/Before a few minutes (5 I believe), after it has stopped, turn the key off and then back to run.

Theft indicator proves out after 2 seconds and then flashes rapidly.

After 15 minutes of flashing, The theft indicator will stop flashing.

Within/Before a few minutes ( 4 on the second time), after it has stopped, turn the key off and then back to run.

After 15 minutes of flashing, the theft indicator will stop.

All original programmed keys will be erased and the key in the ignition is programmed.

This is the procedure for programming a new key. Since you are programming an existing key, it may work on the first pass which is the procedure for programming a spare key. I hope this helps.

The “classic” answer is “10 and 2” (meaning where the numbers 10 and 2 are on an analog clock face).It was claimed that this gives you the most control of the car and allows you to rotate the wheel by the largest amount without having to “shuffle steer”.However, since the near-universal driver-side-airbag being fitted into the center of the steering wheel, I’ve heard that “4 and 8” is the new advice - on the basis that if you have a crash and the airbag goes off - you want it to restrain your arms against your body rather than to fling them out sideways.I’m not sure how reliable that advice is - if 10-and-2 is truly the safest position (as previously claimed) then surely it’s better to avoid accidents completely than to lessen injury if they occur.Personally, I learned to drive in a pre-airbag era - and 10-and-2 feels so much more in control than 4-and-8.I believe that car manufacturers also go with 10-and-2 because at least SOME cars with “paddle shifters’ (those little levers that let you shift gears without taking your hands off of the wheel) seem to be placed for 10-and-2 drivers.One thing is for sure - your hands do need to be spaced out - don’t drive with both hands touching at the 12 or 6 position…that’s very dangerous.

How do I bypass the factory anti-theft system on a F-150?

1999 Ford F Series Security Information

Constant 12V+Green/Purple or Yellow Ignition Switch Harness
Starter Red/Light Blue Ignition Switch Harness
Ignition Red/Black or Blue/Green Ignition Switch Harness
Ignition 2 Gray/Yellow Ignition Switch Harness
Ignition 3 Dark Red/Black Ignition Switch Harness
Accessory Gray/Yellow or Blue/White Ignition Switch Harness
Tach White/Pink BCM, Pin 48 of 104 Pin Connector or Pin19 if Diesel
Neutral Safety Wire Red/Light Blue Ignition Switch
Brake Switch Red Brake Switch
Trunk Pin n/a
Parking Lights Brown (+) Driver's Kick Panel or Light Switch
Head Lamp Red/Yellow (+) Light Switch
Factory Disarm Dark Green/Purple(-) Driver's Kick Panel
Door Trigger Black/Blue (+) 40 Pin Connector Firewall behind Driver's Dash
Door Lock Pink/Yellow High Driver's Dash Negative Trigger w/Keyless Entry
Door Unlock Pink/Light Green Reverse Polarity w/o Keyless Entry
Driver's Lock Pink/Black Driver's Door Boot
Driver's Unlock Red/Orange Driver's Door Boot
Passenger Unlock Pink/Orange Keyless Module
Horn Wire Dark Blue (-) Brown 6 Pin Connector behind Driver's Dash
Windows Up LF=White/Black, RF=White/Yellow, LR=Gray/Orange, RR=Yellow/Black
Windows Down LF=Orange/White, RF=Tan/Light Blue, LR=Yellow/Light Blue, RR=Red/Blue

If the factory alarm is armed you should be able to use the key in the door (lock it then unlock it) this should turn off the factory alarm if that's the problem. I would check to make sure it's not the starter relay or other similar problem also try smacking on the starter it may be stuck (seriously) but don't hammer on it just tape it while someone cranks the vehicle. You could check for sure by getting a test light $4 give or take and check all the fuses and relays and check for signal to the starter if their is signal at the starter then the starter is stuck or froze if their is no signal chances are their is a bad relay or blown fuse some where.

Good luck hope this helps move you forward in fixing your problem.

How do I bypass the factory anti-theft system on a F-150?

1999 Ford F Series Security Information

Constant 12V+Green/Purple or Yellow Ignition Switch Harness
Starter Red/Light Blue Ignition Switch Harness
Ignition Red/Black or Blue/Green Ignition Switch Harness
Ignition 2 Gray/Yellow Ignition Switch Harness
Ignition 3 Dark Red/Black Ignition Switch Harness
Accessory Gray/Yellow or Blue/White Ignition Switch Harness
Tach White/Pink BCM, Pin 48 of 104 Pin Connector or Pin19 if Diesel
Neutral Safety Wire Red/Light Blue Ignition Switch
Brake Switch Red Brake Switch
Trunk Pin n/a
Parking Lights Brown (+) Driver's Kick Panel or Light Switch
Head Lamp Red/Yellow (+) Light Switch
Factory Disarm Dark Green/Purple(-) Driver's Kick Panel
Door Trigger Black/Blue (+) 40 Pin Connector Firewall behind Driver's Dash
Door Lock Pink/Yellow High Driver's Dash Negative Trigger w/Keyless Entry
Door Unlock Pink/Light Green Reverse Polarity w/o Keyless Entry
Driver's Lock Pink/Black Driver's Door Boot
Driver's Unlock Red/Orange Driver's Door Boot
Passenger Unlock Pink/Orange Keyless Module
Horn Wire Dark Blue (-) Brown 6 Pin Connector behind Driver's Dash
Windows Up LF=White/Black, RF=White/Yellow, LR=Gray/Orange, RR=Yellow/Black
Windows Down LF=Orange/White, RF=Tan/Light Blue, LR=Yellow/Light Blue, RR=Red/Blue

If the factory alarm is armed you should be able to use the key in the door (lock it then unlock it) this should turn off the factory alarm if that's the problem. I would check to make sure it's not the starter relay or other similar problem also try smacking on the starter it may be stuck (seriously) but don't hammer on it just tape it while someone cranks the vehicle. You could check for sure by getting a test light $4 give or take and check all the fuses and relays and check for signal to the starter if their is signal at the starter then the starter is stuck or froze if their is no signal chances are their is a bad relay or blown fuse some where.

Good luck hope this helps move you forward in fixing your problem.