1863 Remington vest model?
I don't have a .31 caliber cap and ball revolver, but I have a .36 caliber and four .44 calibers. I have never had a problem with a brass framed revolver, my .36 caliber 1851 Navy Colt and two of my .44s, both are the same model as the .36) have brass frames. I have been told that if you shoot extremely heavy loads out of these the frame can be damaged. I doubt that the .36 caliber can hold a powerful enough charge to damage the frame without thousands and thousands of shots. The .44 caliber does have some power though. There's no way that the powder charge that you can load into a .31 caliber chamber is going to damage it. I think mine were worth what I paid. If you are patient, Cabela's occasionally sells them at a discount and the price is pretty reasonable. I really love shooting mine, especially the .36 caliber, it is extremely accurate. and fairly reliable. If you like shooting and you like black powder weapons, I think you'll love C&B revolvers. I would recommend something bigger for a first cap and ball revolver, but that's my own preference. If you like the smaller gun, then by all means get that one. As much fun as these are, C&B revolvers are lethal weapons. Read and follow the instructions in the owner's manual and if you have any doubts about them ask someone who knows how to handle these guns, but don't ask here. Added- you won't have any trouble with ammo for this gun. A C&B revolver fires a round ball that is slightly larger than the chamber diameter. Lead is shaved off of the ball when you push it into the chamber with the loading lever. 0 buckshot is the right size ball for a .31 caliber ball. For powder you can use 3F black powder, Pyrodex P, or any other black powder substitute that is made for pistols/ small bore rifles. In addition to the ball and powder, all you'll need is a percussion cap (#10s are usually perfect for revolvers, but #11s should work as well). Finally you can use lard or crisco to seal the chamber mouth after you load, but before you cap the chambers. ADD- Anyone who doesn't alreay know these are percussion shouldn't be answering this question. Percussion revolvers are also called cap and ball (C&B) revolvers.
How do you maintain a Smith & Wesson 9mm Parabellum?
Smith and Wesson has made (and still makes) a great many handguns chambered in 9mm Parabellum and the best answer is going to vary based on which model you happen to own.Can you narrow down which model in particular? There are general rules about maintaining guns (store in a cool dry place, keep lightly lubricated and clean, etc) but the particulars about where attention should be paid, to what extent things need to be disassembled and what products are advisable/safe to use are going to vary depending on whether it’s a revolver or semi-auto, the age and finish and the conditions under which the gun is used.One thing that is universal is that S&W will provide copies of the owner’s manual. This is actually a good place to start for basic safety, operational and maintenance questions.
I bought a pine ridge tactical .17 BSA scope. how do u adjust the elevation?
i bought a savage from cabela's that came with a 3-9-40 scope. they said it was bore sighted and ready to go. i took it out to the range set the l/r adjustment to zero zero and the yardage to 100 wich is how far i was away . i shot 5 shots all within about a 2 inch group but they were about 5 inches high. how do your adjust the elevation, how do you zero it at 100 yrds.
After jump starting a car, why is it important to remove the clamps in reverse order?
When the first, and last, connection is made there is usually a spark.Charging batteries release hydrogen gas, which can obviously catch fire easily.That's why the order is important as well as where the connections are made. Always jump a car this way, making sure that the cables aren't near any fans or belts, and making sure the positive and negative ends of the jumper cables never even get close to each other:Make sure both cars are 12V, negative ground. (This is almost universal now, but if one is a vintage car you'd do well to check.) Make sure the cars aren't touching each other.Shut off the charging car.Connect the positive (Red, or +) battery terminal of the charging car to the dead car.Connect the negative (Black, or -) cable to the negative terminal, chassis, or engine block of the charging car.Connect the other end of the negative cable to the chassis or engine block of the dead car, as far from the battery as is practical. A spark will likely occur as the circuit is completed.Start the charging car and let the engine idle, or perhaps fast idle.Wait about half a minute and try starting the dead car. If it doesn't turn over quickly, wait a little longer and try again. If it's still dead, the problem isn't a dead battery. Go to the next step in either caseDisconnect the end of the negative cable at the dead car end. This is the last connection you made, and should be the first you break. A spark will likely occur as you break the circuit.Disconnect both ends of the positive cable. The order no longer matters.You're still making sure that the ends of the cables don't touch each other.Typically the formerly dead car can just be driven around for an hour or so in order to get enough charge. (That's for an approximate idea of "enough". See Daniel Armstrong's answer to How long do you have to drive your car to recharge the battery?) That's if the jump was needed because of something like accidentally leaving the lights on. If the battery is failing it should be replaced as soon as possible.
So I've grown a lot in the past year and I was wondering how to fit my compound bow back to my size any tips? this is the bow I have|Cabela's Dash RTH Compound-Bow
If the difference is not too big, you might be able to change your anchor point. In particular, different mechanical releases combined with how exactly you use them can change your draw length a little bit, maybe an inch, inch and a half.Hmmm, I suppose you could put a very long draw loop on the string.As an aside, if you do go to a longer draw length you will pick up a lot of kinetic energy! And, I hope to not get you in trouble with your buddies, but heavier arrows penetrate better. LOL.
Want a Sharps in 45-120, but the ammo is real steep. Anyone try the 45-70 version?
Before you buy, go on line at www.arms2armor.com. They have some really good prices on Sharps rifles. I have a .45-120 that I really like but I am not particularly bothered by recoil. I load my own ammo and am using 115 grains equivalent of Triple 7 and a 500 grain bullet. It kicks like an Army mule. If recoil is a problem, you could load your ammo a little bit lighter but if that is your choice, you ought to just buy a .45-70. The ammo is readily available and is not all that expensive. Brass and dies for the .45-120 are available from www.midwayusa.com. If you are not set up to do your own reloading, that is another reason to buy a .45-70 rather than the .45-120. Unless you are a lot more wealthy than me, you won't shoot much of the factory stuff before you are looking for a buyer for your .45-120 Sharps. If you are a reloader and like a lot of recoil, then by all means, go for the .45-120 otherwise stick with the .45-70. Just be sure to check out the rifles at Arms to Armor before you buy because you can't beat their prices anywhere. I did a lot of shopping before I bought my rifle and they had the best prices.