Car shaking when idle?
hi there im a motor mechanic,and i can tell you that your automatic choke is not operating correctly the choke unit is located on the throttle body and it is a common problem with corollas sometimes removing it and spraying it with a bit of wd40 or the like will help if the engine accelerate smoothly and no loss of power you can rule out tune ups spark plugs or leads ,its the throttle body that controls your idle speed and at times it might work good that youd think theres no problem at all,i hope my answer has helped you a bit.
Car overheating and shaking when idle?
I have had a lot of problems with my 2003 NIssan Altima after an recent accident. I accidentally rear-ended someone. Aside from the physical damage to the hood and headlights, I also blew the radiator which blew out the head gasket on my engine. Both of those things were replaced along with: spark plugs, thermostat, air filter, and rear brakes. A month later (which was a couple days ago) the car overheated really badly when I got home from and parked after a 30 minute drive. Took it back in and told me the radiator had a hole, and was replaced under my warrantly. Now, a day later, it is overheating again when idle, or when I park. On a separate note, it also shakes (sometimes mildly, sometimes heavily) when idle. What could it be now? On the last repair the mechanic said I would see a little smoke because antifreeze had leaked all over the place with the bad radiator, but that it would go away. It's two days later and still overheating and smoking.
My car is shaking violently while idling?
So when I start my car, it starts to shake really really hard. The whole car is moving like im driving on a very bumpy road and you can see the engine shaking like its about to explode. I drove my car up the hills yesterday and did very well. After I got down, I went to the store, left and started up my car again and that's when the shaking happened. Its idling at the correct rpm but its shaking. Also, I have an aftermarket exhaust. And the exhaust sounds a lot deeper. It sounds like its not rich anymore. Almost sounding like Subaru if anyone knows what I am talking about. What can the problems be? Oil? Fuel? Thank you.
What would cause my car to shake a little bit when idling?
If it has started shaking more now than it did when new, then listen to the exhaust. If it is not hitting evenly on all cylinders (“missing”) then get new plugs and verify ignition performance. Normally broken motor mounts will allow the engine to shake more since they are not securely holding the engine. Under this circumstance, there will be less shake transferred to the car than with new mounts and your car will actually shake less.If it is an inline 4 cylinder, then this shake is just a normal function of the engine design. A 3 cylinder engine actually has less normal shake than the 4 cylinder. This is simply a result of the rotation angles between power strokes. As cylinder count increases beyond a 6 cylinder the engine shake gets smoother. A V-12 engine can have a glass of Champagne filled to the brim sitting on the intake manifold without splashing any contents.My first experience in a Jaguar with a V-12 really surprised me. The engine could be idling when you place your hand on the body of the car and you could barely tell if it was running or if the body was simply resonating from ambient sounds.
My car shakes when idle and driving slow speeds!
Before doing any further investigations on the car I suggest you replace the spark plugs, ignition leads, ignition coil, oil, oil filter, fuel filter and timing & alternator belts. Unless the car has had a recent full service there is no point investigating engine running problems if it has lots of old (dying) components on it. After that see how it runs, if there is no improvement then I suggest; Take it to a good independant mechanic for crypton diagnotics and a full tune up. They will hook it up to a computer which will give your engine a full health check (RPM, gasses, fuel mixture, oil temp) and based on the feedback the mechanic can tune it to how it should be. If after doing this you still have the 'shakes' it could be a sign of engine wear or major components wearing out. Good luck.
Why is my car shaking after an oil change?
I have a 1992 Ford Tempo...we did an oil change and changed the oil filter after all was done, we started the car to drive home and it was idling very rough and the car was shaking. The car continues to shake while we drive, we took it on the free way and it seems to do better at higher speeds...i don't know what is wrong. Please help...! thanks.
Car shakes at idle when in drive/reverse?
Okay, asked this question several times before. I have a 2003 Chevrolet Tracker Automatic, 2.0l 4 cylinder. I've had all the basics done: full tune up, air intake was serviced, changed oil, changed engine mounts and transmission mount. Multiple mechanics told me that the shaking is normal, which its not since it never did it before and none of my other vehicles do it. Also, sometimes (not always) when i shift into drive or park the car jolts into the car. Sometimes it changes and i feel nothing (like a new car) and sometimes i'll shift into reverse or park and it will jolt into that gear. I've been looking up causes and many people have recommended using seafoam through the brake booster and in gas tank. I bought some seafoam and will use it tomorrow but if that doesn't fix the rough idle then what else could possibly be causing the shaking? Mechanic said that the idle air control and o2 sensor are fine. Occasionally the car will find a sweet spot when at idle and there will be absolutely no shaking. The mechanic has adjusted the idling speed but I read under the hood of the tracker that it should not be adjusted and if it is it MUST be set to 750 rpm's. Thing is, it varies. Sometimes it seem like it is at 750 when there is no shaking but recently it's been hovering around 500 rpm's and it shakes quite a lot. What else could be causing the shaking? Should the seafoam fix the shaking?
Why did my car shake and the check engine light flash while stopped at a light?
What you experienced was almost certainly a misfire event and the cause may be recorded as a diagnostic trouble code (DTC) in the engine controller’s memory. Most failures that are significant enough to cause MIL illumination will record a trouble code and its environmental/ data information from the moment, even if the MIL is no longer lit. Onboard Diagnostics work constantly to keep the MIL off, looking for a reason to turn the CE light out if the condition hasn’t been seen again recently, eventually even erasing trouble codes if all’s good. I can only speculate on the nature of your event, but a thorough scan to retrieve codes and freeze frame data of the moment will often shed some light on the situation.Misfires come in many flavors, ranging from slight loss of performance in a single cylinder, to one or more holes being completely dead. Your description of shake at an idle implies a power imbalance, which usually involves complete loss of performance, but just one hole.Barring an at-home scanner being available, rolling the ignition key from LOCK to RUN three times, then leaving it in the RUN position at the end will initiate the customer code-read feature, spilling any matured codes stored in the PCM through the instrument cluster’s odometer window. All codes will be four digits in length, beginning with the letter P, such as P0123. DTC information can be found at OBD2-OBDII Engine Light Trouble Codes Definitions, Description and Repair Information online.One-trip failures - those that have not quite matured - will not be displayed in this feature, but will show up on a high-end scanner if present.If only a single cylinder misfire code is retrieved, pull the coil and spark plug to inspect for signs of flashover - black marks on the upper spark plug insulator and inner coil boot that will not scratch off with a fingernail. Flashover is pretty common on coil-on-plug ignition systems and the cure is to replace both the boot and spark plug together. Worn plugs tend to incite this sort of situation as spark will always seek the path of least resistance.If your DTC list includes an injector control circuit code that matches the cylinder of misfire, chances are good that the injector is at fault. The injector may test as completely normal when cooler, but will go to an open circuit once heated, either naturally or with a heat gun.
Car is shaking/pulsing?
Well this could be a number of different problems. When you say it sitting idle at a stop light i assume you mean the car is an automatic and you are in drive and not neutral. If this is the case it could mean you have a fuel injector issue, an air flow issue or a cylinder issue. If it is a fuel injector issue you are lucky since this is the cheapest of the three, sometimes adding some fuel injector cleaner to your gas tank will clear that up, or replacing your fuel injectors will also work. If it is an air flow issue your throttle body will be the culprit, you may need to clean it or if it fails inspection you may need to get a new one. The final diagnosis would be a cylinder problem which would mean having to get your cylinder replace which might cost you a couple hundered bucks. 50K miles is not too much so it might be the brand of car.