Why does my car make a squeaking noise only in reverse from the rear wheels?
Best bet without knowing any specifics is perhaps brake adjustment on the back wheels.Most cars since the seventies at least have automatic brake adjusters, some of which operate when the car reverses. This could possibly be bringing the unworn trailing edge of the brake lining into contact with the drum.The polished part of the brake lining rubbing on the also polished drum can squeak. This could also happen with rear disk brakes, as they are not applied as heavily as the front and when you reverse, the pads tip very slightly in contact with the disc and again squeak.Front disc brakes often develop a squeal when applied if the driver doesn’t use the brakes heavily and the discs and pads polish up. Some dishonest garages will spend a lot of your money fitting new stuff that isn’t necessary, though it’s important to distinguish between the squeal of glazed pads and the sound of metal on metal or a wear warning spring.With polished (glazed) pads, we just drove along a quiet piece of road in low gear for a hundred yards or so with the footbrake pressed to take the glaze off. You could try the same on an open piece of ground in reverse to see if that makes any difference. Driving at road speed along a quiet highway and hitting the brakes hard several times would perhaps make a difference.If all else fails, take it to a reputable garage. I’d advise against amateur brake repair. A repair bill is preferable to a potentially serious accident.Footnote: A car front wheel covered in black dust is a sign of a heavy brake user (repair shop cash cow). And if the brakes are being abused, it’s probable that the rest of the car is too.
Drum Machine Software?
Hello all :p I am looking to spend up to 200$ on drum machine software. I really have no idea where to begin. I need something that is geared towards electronic sounds, and has some sampling capabilities. I also need to be able to construct my own beats. It needs to be mac compatible. Other than that I am pretty lost on what to get. Any suggestions?
What would cause a popping/crackling sound in one of my stereo speakers?
Most popping or crackling sounds in an audio system come from a bad or dirty connections. Sometimes they do come from a faulty unit or component, but in most cases it is a connection issue. Whether that connection is in the connectors, wiring, circuit board or components, or even just a bad solder joint, wherever that connection is, finding it becomes the main issue to tackle. There are some relatively simple methods that can be used to locate it.First identify which part of your audio system has the issue. The fact that it is only in one of your speakers is a huge help in identifying what might be causing the noise. If both channels had the same noise, this method would not work. You can easily identify the source by swapping the channels and seeing if the noise moves or stays on the same channel.For example, swap the channels the speakers are connected to. Does it persist on the same speaker or does transfer to the other? After swapping, if it remains with the same speaker ( other channel), then it is the speaker connections (or the speaker itself) that are problematic. If it is now on the same channel (other speaker), it is somewhere in the system, before the speaker connections. You can continue to swap different components back and forth, swapping channels and work back to where the source and component is identified.Sometimes just connecting and reconnecting the cables and components solves the problem, as the connection is improved. Good luck!One component that usually becomes noisy that way (more of a crackling sound than a popping one)is a potentiometer (also called a ‘pot’, normally volume controls, bass-treble-balance controls, etc.). These can be easily identified by rotating or sliding the controls as the case may be, and listening for the noise. These can be cleaned with the right solvents or sprays.Worst case scenario is a failed or failing component such as a transistor, capacitor, resistor, solder joint (actually solder joints are relatively easily repaired, just identifying the problematic one is the challenge!), etc.Once you have identified the part or unit in the system that is causing the noise, then it will be easier to decide how best to correct the issue (replace or repair).
I overfilled my car's engine with engine oil, can that harm my engine?
I felt obligated to answer this because I saw many answers I did not agree with. Being ASE certified in the category of engine repair and engine performance, I can tell you why overfilling your car with oil is very bad and can damage the bearings in the engine. The rule of thumb is not to fill more than 1/2 quart over the specified capacity.As we know with Pascal’s law, a liquid cannot be compressed, but it can be pressurized. Your oil pump pressurizes the oil to be sent to various places inside the engine; this pressurized oil is squirted through small holes in the bearings where the crankshaft and camshafts ride on oil pressure and do not make direct contact with your bearings. This greatly reduces friction and the load is supported solely by the pressure of the moving fluid. This is why each car has a recommended oil weight and viscosity by the vehicle's manufacturer based on bearing clearance.If your oil is filled up enough to where the crankshaft can dip into the oil it will cause aeration in the oil. This turns the oil into a foam with pockets of air and as we all know a gas CAN be compressed. This aerated oil goes into your oil pump and the oil pump compresses the air effectively reducing oil pressure in the engine. This can lead to main bearing damage, rod bearing damage, cylinder wall scoring, camshaft journal damage to name a few and can lead to catastrophic engine failure, in a worst case scenario.Most vehicles have an oil dipstick, on the dipstick you will notice a minimum and a maximum fill range. The distance between these marks is usually one quart of oil. You can tell how much your vehicle is overfilled based on this distance.Edit: I wanted to thank you all for the views and upvotes but also I wanted to add some more information.On the 2nd generation Prius, if the engine oil is overfilled by more than a half quart, the PCV system will suck the excess oil through the throttle body and stall the engine. We have seen some come back on a flatbed after quick lube changed the oil. Once you drain the oil a little the engine will be able to run again.
What are the risks of driving with a loose rocker arm?
The other answers here are absolutely accurate, but one aspect of loose rocker arms hasn’t been addressed .. What is the function of the rocker arm?In an engine with mechanical lifters, the push rods “follow” the cam profile, and actuate the valves. When the rocker arms are out of adjustment, the valves don’t open as soon, or as much, or for as long as the cam profile calls for. There is also, less overlap ( when both the intake and exhaust valves are open at the same time, to help scavenge the engine of burnt exhaust gasses).The end results of an out of adjustment set of rocker arms…Less mileage.Less power.More pollution.An entirely subjective and anecdotal observation…I used to have a Dodge Dart (1968) with a 225 Cubic Inch slant six. When I got it, it had a seriously out of adjustment set of mechanical lifters, Also, the oil gal;leys in the rocker arms were plugged with sludge. It had the classic “click click click” at idle of a slant six. I set them a bit on the tight side ( lower end of clearance called for in the manual). There was a noticeable difference in performance , mileage and drive-ability afterwards. Also, not hearing the “click, clack, click”, was a bonus.
Why does a feed pump have balance and re-circulation lines?
During centrifugal pump operation, especially in multistage centrifugal, suction side will have relatively very less pressure as compared to the discharge side. Because of this, there are lot of possibilities that impeller along with the shaft and bearing will be pushed from discharge end to suction end which is also known as axial thrust.Balance line is used to balance the centrifugal pump shaft from axial thrust. Due to the axial thrust, pump bearings and internals will get damaged. To nullify this effect, a tapping from discharge end is connected to a balancing drum.Minimum recirculation line is provided mainly for centrifugal pump with constant speed drive based on the system and vendor information. There are two types of minimum continuous flow required by the pump (Stable and Thermal). Pump is designed to operate at the flow greater than this flow rate. If pump is operated at less flow than the minimum continuous stable flow, it will damage bearing and pump will start vibration and it will make noise. Below the minimum continuous thermal flow, temperature of fluid will rise at faster rate. To avoid these problems, minimum recirculation line is provided. If the demand of the liquid is decreased below minimum continuous flow, flow transmitter will give signal to open the control valve installed on the minimum recirculation line. Opening of control valve is adjusted automatically such that flow rate in the pump discharge is always equal to or higher than stable continuous flow.
When I operate electrical switches at my home, my LCD TV shuts off momentarily. Why?
This usually happens when the contacts of some switches 'bounce' . The switch contact does not settle down to a definite state immediately, but is loose enough to 'make' and 'break' a couple times rapidly. If there is a substantially inductive device (motor, tubelight, etc.) attached to it, it produces an overvoltage on the line. Since in domestic wiring everything is connected to one MCB for a line, i.e. all circuits of ground floor connected to one MCB, this overvoltage reflects on everything connected electrically on that line (ignore all equipment that is off). This also happens when one switches load OFF and causes a small arcing at the switch.Your TV is reacting to such momentary overvoltages, i.e. it's internal power supply is detecting the overvoltage and temporarily shutting down internal voltages to protect the set.There are 2 possible solutions:1. Connect the TV to the mains through a good surge protector ('spike buster'), as others have suggested2. Check each switch individually if operating it causes the TV to flicker. Replace the culprit switches with new ones