I have a 96 suzuki gs500e and it will start but you have to keep it above 3000 rpm..how do i adjust my carb?
Your carb needs a cleaning this is what my 2002 GS500 started to have the same problem then within a day the carb satred leaking Gas out the intake and all over the ground. Your idle adjust is the white knob under the carb and between the two halfs of the carb. Small adjustments with the choke off and what is considered perfect idle is 1200 rpm but anything from 1100 - 1300 is within spec. Just a warning if your fuel petcock only works on Prime you will need to replace that before cleaning your carb as GSs are known to have more flow of gas than the bike can handle and will leak all over the place till the vaccum petcock is replaced and in the on or res position. If you start to leak fuel from the carb there is a fuel shut off on the gas tank just turn the slot so it is pointed away from up and down.
Suzuki gs500 petcock?
You may have the petcock positions wrong. If you look at the petcock handle closely, it may have an arrow cast into it. Make sure the arrow, rather than the handle, is pointed at "Reserve".
Why won't my 2008 Suzuki GS500F start?
My bike was running great when I left for vacation. When I tried to start it about 3 weeks later it won't start. The kill switch is in the run position, the bike is in neutral, the clutch is depressed and the battery is good. When I press the ignition, the headlight goes out like it always does, but nothing turns. It is like the key is in the off position. I am not sure where to start looking. Since the headlight goes out I know the ignition switch is fine. What next?
Suzuki gs 500 carb trouble?
You probably have some gunk that has finally made its way into the carb from what was left of the old fuel or whatever when you did the cleaning. You can check to see if fuel is getting to the carb at all by opening the bowl drain screw a bit and seeing if fuel leaks out. If it does then the carb is receiving fuel. There are few possibilities. I would first suspect clogged jets in the carb. You must disassemble the carb and physically clean the jets to correct this problem. But this is a good idea anyway. You could have unbalanced carbs. You would need to measure the vacuum off each carb and adjust the butterfly valves so the vacuum is the same for both carbs. You can build this carb manometer cheaply to balance a 2-carb bike: http://www.powerchutes.com/manometer There could be other reasons for your problem, but a good carb cleaning seems the most likely culprit.
Question about the Naked style Suzuki GS500...?
For the best answers, search on this site https://shorturl.im/awMEv I own a 02 GS500 the bike takes the falls that will happen with a new rider in stride and keeps on running. The bike also is great on gas mileage mine gets 55 mpg. The bike has just enough power to get into barely enough trouble but also enough to get you out. When you decide on a bike you'll want to find out how to adjust the suspension for you because everyone is different and the factory setting may not work for you. Eventually with time you will want to move up to a SV650 you could go for the S or for just the plain naked SV650 the parts on the GS500 and the SV are the same the 07 model year the is the first year that the SVs were offered with ABS which is worth it if you've ever braked hard and dropped the bike. (SV650 here got totaled out for something like that but great bike overall). When you move up to the bigger bike look at the style and at the control set up as well as seating position you may like something better and just go with the bike that fits you size of engine is not really a factor if you are responsible in riding and your showing the first step by having taken the msf course.
Suzuki GS500 no electrics?
The big question is, what caused the fuse to blow/melt. You say you turned a corner and it happened then, could be that the loom was stretched as you turned the handlebars and something shorted in the wiring as a result. Sounds like the 20A fuse has got really hot & then blown. It all really depends on how the person who did your electrical work did the work... Can you not get him to take a look? If you can't then I would cut out the damaged section of cable, buy a 20A fuse & holder, and splice it in using proper connectors and a crimp tool. You can get these from Halfords. If you do try & fix it yourself, check the cabling where it comes out of your clocks and makes its way around the headstock to see if something has frayed and could be shorting when you turn the bars - this would need sorting first. Some extra winds of electrical tape around the vulnerable area can sort that out, along with re-routing to ensure that turning the bars does not overstress the loom. Wiring isn't that bad as long as you are fairly methodical in what you do, just a bit of common sense is required really :) Good luck!
Suzuki GS500F idles low and dies?
I had an similar situation, and after making certain each thing became so as, valves, cables, sync, glide element, and so on, it nonetheless acted like it became having a manifold vacuum leak. i found that the rubber caps on the choke plungers, which i presumed were in basic terms airborne dirt and mud caps, were the source of the vacuum leak. I replaced them and it without delay solved my putting idle project. I also polished my choke plungers with Brasso till they were sparkling, and then lubed all of it up with a contact of two-stroke engine oil. Runs completely now, i will rev the throttle and the idle at modern drops right down to 1200 rpm and continues to be there. wish this helps someone available
1989 Suzuki GS500 ticking at idle & while riding?
GS500, has cambuckets with shims ontop.. It could be valve adjustment needed, if it is then you probably wont notice much loss in performance until you get it serviced. You can check the shim gap yourself with a feeler gauge. It is explained in the Haynes manual what the gaps size shoud be. If you are good with basic mechanics you could check this before sending it in, as maybe the gaps are correct. Another ticking noise may be from the exhaust system not bolted up tight on the cylinder head, or burnt out exhaust gaskets, allowing exhaust' noise' to escape. Locate the sound of the ticking by standing either side of the bike. kneel down and listen to see if the ticking is coming from the rocker cover on both/one side of from the middle of the engine, or around the exhaust system. Use a long handled screwdriver to help locate the noise by placing the handle against your ear and the blade of the screwdriver against various areas of the engine i.e rocker cover over the inlet area, then exhaust. Ive worked on the early models of GS500 (1990's version). to check the shims- remove side panels, loosen tank, switch off fuel tap, remove tank, remove spark plug caps, remove rocker cover, use haynes manual to check each gap beween the cam lube and its corisponding shim.
Help, gs500 wont start :(?
It ran great today, and no problems over the last few weeks i have been riding it. I just went in, had its chain tightened, rear wheel replaced, plugs replaced, maintenance done. Started up fine, rode it home. Decided to give it a bath, sprayed it down, soaped it, rinsed, waxed. The weather is perfect, the bike is shiny. I check fuel switch, on, ignition, neutral, engine cut off, (no choke) attempt a start up, it starts up, stays on for about 3 seconds, and dies. I figured, hey! maybe it just needs the choke, its cold, i put choke on, and all it doesn now is chuga chuga chuga chuga chuga chuga...chuga chuga chuga chuga, the beast wont fire up :(, i have it on a battery charger now in hopes that that solves the problem, anybody else have an idea? thanks guys. Update: It has gas, i have even tried with the reserve valve, but it has gas, i triple checked.
Suzuki GS500E 2001 - Alternator problems. Please help!?
I seldom have cause to disagree with jon because he's a sharp guy, but I will this time. NEVER disconnect a battery cable with the engine running on ANY alternator equiped engine! NEVER! If you do and the alternator is up to par, it'll sock an 18V surge through the electrical system and you stand a good chance of frying the ignition module. They contain small capacitors and transistors that are sensitive to such surges. That old "remove the battery cable and see if it runs" trick was used on generator equiped engines built prior to about mid-1960. Most of those generators only produced 20-25A and the engine had to be reved up a pretty good clip to even do that. My bike has a 45A alternator and there's Gold Wings that produce twice that. That means that even at an idle they could fry parts. On your alternator check, if the stator is bad, normally you'll find a considerable variance in AC voltage between the three pairs of wire. Keep in mind that to get the suggested voltage, you need to rev the engine up. If you left it at an idle, then 25V would be about right. I always figure the exact AC voltage output isn't as important as all three being the same. You say the battery loses .1V per minute. Is that while the engine is running? That would also be about right. However, with the engine off and the ignitoin key off, there should be no parasitic losses whatsoever UNLESS you have added a gps or radio with a preset memory. And yes, on bikes, most charging systems max out at around 14.5-14.7V. However, if the battery is very discharged, the alternator may have a hard time maintaining much more than around 13.5V until the battery is recharged. Were it me, I'd be checking the wire connectors between the alternator and reg-rec. Also, there should be a heavier gauge wire that plugs into the reg-rec connector. Unplug it and check to see if your're getting battery voltage. If it's failed somewhere between the reg-rec and the positive cable of the battery, no juice will be returned to the battery. Some reg-recs must be well grounded to function properly, so make sure there's no corrosion or rust where it mounts to the frame or whatever. If you have more questions, email me. Good luck.