1998 Chevy Suburban starts but won't stay running?
Does the security light flash? The most common cause for this complaint is the EVO (Electronic Variable Orifice) Passlock Module! You can try the Passlock relearn procedure perform this as follows: 1. Disconnect the battery, go inside the vehicle and push the horn button a couple of times (to discharge the residual current in the vehicle) 2. Reconnect the battery and Turn the ignition switch from the OFF position to the CRANK position, allowing the engine to start/stall. 3. Release the key, leave the ignition in the ON position for a minimum of 10 minutes. Do not continue until at least 10 minutes has passed or the relearn will abort. Going over 10 minutes is OK. 4 After the 10 minute cycle, turn the key off for 15 seconds. 5 Repeat steps 3-5 two more times (3 times total). 6.After the 3rd cycle, the theft system should synchronize to the new Passlock sensor. It should start and run normally.
1987 chevy s10 blazer 2.8 v6 starts then dies over and over eventually will run?
I would check the distributor, it houses the ignition control module and they have a tendency to fail.
1987 chevy k5 blazer won't stay running?
I have a 1987 chevy k5 blazer with the 305 tbi, it won't stay running it will start and die right away. If I pump the gas while starting it will stay running but as soon a I let off it dies? I took the fuel filter off and that wasn't clogged, I also than made sure the fuel pump was pumping, and I cleaned the iac module. Now what else should it be should I take the injectors out and clean them? Please tell me what you think. If you need any additional information just ask I will edit as soon as possible thank you.
1996 Chevy S10 4.3 4WD ABS Light On?
Probably 95% of anti-lock system problems are because of a faulty or dirty (wheel or driveline mounted) sensor, or a broken sensor wire, which go from each sensor to the system Brake Pressure Modulator Valve (BPMV) near the Master Cylinder. The front wires tend to break more because of the wheels turning back and forth all the time. Short of using a suitable scan tool to check the system, the easiest way to check whole individual circuits (sensor and wiring) at once for each sensor is to hook up a Voltmeter at the BPMV end of each circuit, and check for AC voltage while spinning the wheel (driveshaft). That would narrow down which of the 3 is at fault, or, if they all check out fine, suggest that the problem is somewhere else. Short of that, the best thing you can do is physically check the wiring for each circuit, and check the condition/cleanliness and the air gap of the sensors themselves. The driveline mounted sensor is vulnerable to contamination, despite it's being in a sealed environment. If you have a broken wire, most of them are integral to the sensor, and you'll have to replace them together. If the sensor is just dirty, spray it with Brake Cleaner, and wipe gently with a soft, lint-free cloth. Do not use compressed air to clean or dry them. If they are externally mounted especially, they tend to attract rust particles since they are magnets, and this will make them malfunction, but will work fine again if you clean them. It could also be that the magnet is just dead at 12 years old, the reluctor ring has been damaged, or problems related to the control unit or accumulator. If it were a hydraulic problem, you should have the brake light on too. You can find much more info on this system here; http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/090... and the other links under "Four Wheel Anti-lock (4WAL) System".
When i start up my 1993 chevy s10 blazer it idles rough & it dies in gear it has a 4.3 vortec motor?
This could be many problems. Does it smoke? what color is the smoke. I would start out by changing the air and fuel filter. If this does not help, take the vehicle to a local auto store (auto zone/NAPA) and see if they can run a computer check on the vehicle. this might give you an idea of what might be wrong.
Chevy S10 emegency brake won't release?
First Is the Emergency Brake depressed, are the brakes just locked, is the indicator light in the dash light, or all of the above. If the peddle is not depressed all the way and looks like it is in the up possession but the light is lit on the dash Pull the release and use you hand to pull the E-Brake peddle up. Over time the peddle can rust and bind a little causing the light to stay on. Also if the E-Brake is fully depressed you can try this too just in case it has bound in that possession. When you pull the release is it really easy? The releases have one of two problems over the years. One is the cable breaks and the handle will just pull out to you and fall out. The other is that the connector comes out of the holder. Okay look under the dash, you see the E-brake peddle and it goes up a few inches. pull on the release lever and look for a cable/wire moving around up by where the E-brake goes up to. it is most likely broke or came dislodged. Either way just to release the brake for now there is a piece connected to the E-brake at the top of it that you can take a screw driver and push it towards the pull handle of the dash, while doing that press down on the E-brake peddle and keep control of it now letting it to come up slowly, IT IS SPRING LOADED be careful.
What will Chevy do in response to the Dodge Demon?
I am glad I found this question. First a background. The camaro ZL1 was every bit of capable as the hellcat with the same torque of 650 lbs. While being 57 horsepower behind, it makes up for it by being considerably lighter. The hellcat is still slightly faster straight line, but on a track the ZL1 smokes it without question. As for what to do about the demon? The same as you see in the movies. You hire an exorcist. No really. Teamed with Hennessey performance, they will offer an option of the ZL1 camaro at the factory to be suped up by henessey. Or you can get it outfitted yourself at Hennessey. It will add about 55 grand to the already ridiculous 65 or so grand. but this will still be about equal to the price of the demon. But here is the kicker, the camaro is 1000 horsepower and about 950 ft pounds of torque. With a lighter body. And its name? You guessed it, the exorcist. So another words the demon will be saying goodbye to the bowtie as it drives away. And this is an option from the factory not just an aftermarket deal. So dodge is gonna have to make a devil that the exorcist cannot handle, at which point I presume that Chevy will just make a God at that point. My response to the Demon. That’s cute
Why does the check stabilitrak light keep going on in my Chevy truck? What does it mean?
If it says “Service Stabilitrak” and other lights have come on, I would take it in to have it looked at. This has been an issue with some chevys. There are how to’s online that show how to easily fix it, but that really depends on the issue and it’s not always the case.It could also be a different system that’s having a problem, but it’s causing multiple systems to malfunction. The stabilitrak system relies on multiple systems working together to function. So if the traction control malfunctions, the stabilitrak can go offline. If the brake system has an issue, stabilitrak can go offline. If the steering position sensor is off or not re-calibrated after a whee alignment, it can trip the stabilitrak system.I had that happen on a new Camaro I rented last year. Steering wheel had to be cocked to the right to stay straight. If I let off the wheel I would have went off the road. Turned out the car had work done and the steering position was way off. It tripped all of the other stability systems including Stabilitrak and traction control.
What are reasons your steering wheel won't lock?
I assume that you are referring to your steering wheel not locking in position after you stop the vehicle and take out the key?There are several possible reasons for this.1. The cog that fits into the detent on the steering column is broken and needs to be replaced.2. The detent on the steering column is worn or broken3. You have not turned the wheel far enough for the cog to find a detent. Pull the wheel first to the left, and then to the right to find the spot.4. The actuator from the solenoid to the cog is broken.To repair this will require the cover on the steering column to be removed, and probably need to have the steering wheel removed as well. Take it to a qualified shop or dealer for this. Incorrect actions could result in damage to the parts, or even the deployment of the air bag on the steering wheel. The exact disassembly required will differ for each manufacturer and possible model of vehicle. If you have a Chilton's manual for your vehicle, you can look up the repair to see what is involve.
Why does the gas pump keep stopping when my tank isn’t full?
Question: “Why does the gas pump keep stopping when my tank is not full?”I have owned and worked on and built high performance engines since the 1960’s.Although it is possible that your car’s filler tube is damaged and restricted, that would have been caused either by an accident or by the removal and improper re-installation of the gas tank. If so, you would be aware of the problem, and it is unlikely you would be asking the question on Quora.The more likely explanation is that the vapor recovery system on the car is damaged.This system vents the fuel vapors from the fuel tank into a canister filled with absorbent granulated charcoal and then into the engine intake manifold, preventing the gases from venting off into to air and adding to pollution. (Older cars did vent gas fumes directly into the atmosphere. That is why you can smell raw gas at any display of classic cars.)In a modern car, if these fumes are not vented off, pressure will build up as you try to fill your gas tank, especially if you are doing so quickly. When the pump nozzle assembly senses this increased pressure it registers it as a full or nearly full tank and shuts off the flow of the gasoline from the pump to the nozzle. Think of that like trying to quickly fill a Coke bottle with water from a quickly flowing kitchen faucet. The air in the bottle has to escape before the liquid can go in.There are several points where the Evaporative Emissions Control System on your car could fail and create the problem you are experiencing. Vacuum lines might have been pinched or damaged. The solenoid valve may be sticking. But the most likely problem is that you have a clogged or damaged EVAP Canister.Your EVAP Canister looks like this,or like this.It is located in the engine compartment, low in the chassis, probably at the front.Why did the Evaporative Emissions Canister fail? Well, you broke it. Or someone else who fuels the car broke it.Did you ever continue to add gas to the tank, in an effort to add another gallon, after the nozzle clicks off? Well, in doing so you flooded the EVAP Canister by forcing liquid gasoline up lines that were meant to handle vapors. You saturated the charcoal media within the EVAP canister and prevented it from acting as a vapor recovery/transfer media.Your fueling problem can be resolved by replacing the EVAP Canister. Unfortunately, these things can be expensive.