Is there any way to permanently disconnect my "check engine light" even if I don't make the repairs that are coded?
“Is there any way to permanently disconnect my "check engine light" even if I don't make the repairs that are coded?”Sure, you can remove the bulb/LED or put some opaque material there. Then it will never light up, not even during the self-test when turning the key. Thus the hack will be immediately obvious to everyone who knows what to look for. Furthermore ignoring the lamp can be costly, much more expensive than fixing the original issue. And the engine management might decide to enter the next stage of fault handling and immobilize the vehicle.
1994 gmc v6 4.3l timing specs?
PROCEDURE When using a timing light connect an adapter between the No. 1 spark plug and the No. 1 spark plug cable, or use an inductive type pickup. Do NOT pierce the spark plug cable. Once the insulation of the spark plug cable has been broken, voltage will jump to the nearest ground, and the spark plug will not fire properly. Some engines incorporate a magnetic timing probe hole for use with special electronic timing equipment. Consult manufacture's instructions for use of this equipment. On the V6 engine, the system will go into bypass mode by disconnecting the timing connector. This is a single wire sealed connector that has a tan with black stripe lead. On the 4.3L engine, this connector is in the cab where the Heater Box and the carpet meet on the passenger side floor. The timing specifications for the 4.3L engine is 0°TDC. Set timing under the following conditions: Normal operating temperature. Air cleaner installed. A/C "OFF". Transmission in neutral. Disconnect SET TIMING connector (tan/black wire) located in the cab where the Heater Box and the carpet meet on the passenger side floor. DO NOT disconnect 4 wire connector at distributor. Connect timing light and adjust as necessary by loosening hold down bolt and rotating distributor. For specification, refer to SPECIFICATIONS/TIMING MARKS. Tighten hold down and recheck the timing. Stop the engine and connect SET TIMING connector. Clear control module trouble code by disconnecting control module power source or use bidirectional scanner.
How do I solve a cylinder 3 misfire?
Misfires are flagged due to lack of contribution from that cylinder. Lack of contribution means that that cylinder is not producing adequate combustion or no combustion at all.Misfires are caused by lack or weak spark due to faulty plugs, coils , coil wires, distributor caps ( if so equipped).Or, fuel issues, no fuel or too much fuel or too much air ( vacuum leak). Fuel related culprits could be injectors, clogged or not pulsing due to internal failure or drivers in the PCM or wiring to injectors.More serious issues are engine internals such as valves not sealing. Usually exhaust valves. Or worn cam lobes, or broken valve springs.So, eliminate the easy things first. Verify spark and measure strength of spark with a cheap spark tester. You should have a minimum of 30 KV jumping the gap. Swap plugs and or coils to see if the misfire travels to another cylinder.Eliminate fuel and vacuum leaks issues with a propane test. Carefully introduce propane to the affected cylinder.
GMC Sonoma Check Engine Light On?
I have a GMC Sonoma with a check engine light. I need it to pass inspection very soon! I have replaced the EGR valve, the computer that controls all of the engine lights, and the fuel pump. The light is still on. Any tips? Also, I am taking it to a dealer to get diagnosed. Will they be able to tell for sure what is wrong with my truck? Thanks!
What are the pros and cons of removing the catalytic converter off of my 05 GMC Duramax?
The bad thing about removing it is you just made your truck illegal to drive on ALL US ROADS. Removing the catalytic converter is illegal in all 50 states. Plus your Check Engine Light will NEVER GO OFF and the car will not pass any state inspection.
Chevy 4.3L Engine Sputter / Backfire When Accelerating?
I have a 1995 Astro Van with a 4.3L engine in it. It is a throttle body, with multiport injector. It has 257,000 miles on it. Problem: for about a year now it has spells where you just can not push on the accelerator much at all without causing excessive sputter and backfire. I have seen several post on the internet on this type problem but not real answers. Here is what I have observed. Worse when hot. Worse after extended idle Very bad on load (hill, passing, etc.) Will accelerate very slowing if you give it just a little gas steadly. Works fine when cold. Changed plugs, wires, distributor, replace fuel pump, TPS sensor, still does it. I am wondering if the time could be off from wear when hot but not cold and cause this.
What problems go along with a bad catalytic converter?
A clogged catalytic convertor causes the symptoms of a loss of power when accelerating or going up a hill. This is an often overlooked cause of loss of power, can cause check engine fault codes and lights, and mechanics will often change a few parts unnecessarily , especially if it is only partially plugged. A couple ways I check for plugged cats when a low power complaint is a symptom, and other obvious basic maintenance items have been checked for service is to have someone hold the rpm at about 1800 to 2000 steady. Then check for a good push of exhaust with my hand from behind the tailpipe. A plugged or partially plugged cat typically leaves a hot sickly feeling exhaust flow from the tailpipe. Compare to a known good working car nearby, known to be performing properly and with the same amount of cylinders. That slow , hot sickly flow at 2000 rpm compared to the hard push blowing your hand away of a not clogged cat is a dead giveaway, and I have NEVER misdiagnosed a plugged cat , or made false diagnosis with this method. Another way is watching a vacuum gauge connected to the intake manifold. When revving up, if the exhaust is plugged the gauge reading will climb then begin to slowly drop as the exhaust pressure builds up. Further testing will be needed to verify which part of the exhaust is plugged. Diagnostic by codes is unreliable and until now I had not heard of it. A code p420 only refers to catalyst efficiency. And can be set by faulty o2 sensors. Removing the exhaust and testing for engine power returning to normal works. But the hot sickly flow has been most accurate with my experience, in several cases where shops had missed it, were stumped and called me to come check. They are always embarrassed for missing the simplicity, but need not, as cars and their complicated electronics and even age old problems can lead to loss of power without any immediately obvious cause.