Is it dangerous to drive with a bad wheel bearing?
A wheel bearing goes through several stages as it fails. First, you may hear a clicking while making turns. After that you may hear and feel a pulsing in the car, or a clicking while driving at low speeds. At this point, you MUST replace the bearing. It is extremely dangerous and you are putting your life at risk.A wheel bearing failure at high speed is one of the most fatal ways for a car to fail, so do not drive at high speeds until you can get the bearing repaired. On most cars, it will require a press or other specialty tools, so I would suggest taking your vehicle to a shop so that it is installed correctly. If you are familiar with the construction, function, and assembly of the bearing and axle it can be done at home.
Can a bad car battery cause engine misfire?
So everyone on hear that says a weak battery cannot cause a misfire is wrong especially with a Subaru!!! I recently ran into this exact same problem with my 2013 Subaru Impreza 2.0L. My car began to have a rough idle anytime I was sitting at a stop light. Then the CEL came on for a misfire in the cylinder and the dealership wanted me to do $1000 worth of work replacing the coil packs and spark plugs. I specifically asked them if a weak battery would cause the problem and they said no as well. I knew my battery was weak because I couldn't leave my car radio on for 5 min with out the battery dying. All battery tests I did said the battery was fine. Today I finally got sick of having to worry about it not starting from leaving the door open or the radio on while it wasn't running. Sure enough my check engine light turned off and now my car has greatly improved performance! Also my car now idles like it is supposed to. I'm thinking my fuel pump was not getting enough power which caused the misfiring. Either way the problem is fixed and I suggest looking into the battery first!
Why does my brake light fuse keep blowing out?
If none of your three brake lights is working, it's doubtful that all of the individual bulbs have burned out. It's far more likely you have an electrical system problem. It may sound complicated and expensive, but don't worry. Odds are the electrical system trouble is nothing more than a failed brake light system fuse.Each part of the car's electrical system corresponds to a fuse, which protects it from amperage overload; if one electrical component blows out, the rest of the car doesn't get fried. If the fuse fails, electricity can't reach the lights, which may be in fine working order otherwise.Like all fuses, the brake light system fuse can be found in the power distribution centre, which is under the dashboard or tucked away underneath the hood. Never heard of the power distribution centre? It's just the technical name for a fuse box. Using your car's manual, locate the fuse that correlates to the brake lights.You'll need a connect test light for the next step (you can get one at any auto parts store.) Turn your car's ignition to the "on" position, grab the connect test light and attach it to a ground, like the dash or the body of the car, and gently press the tip of the tester to each of the fuse's two ends. Now, press down lightly on the gas pedal. Does the test light illuminate? If so, the fuse is functional, and the problem most likely is a used-up brake light bulb. If, however, the test light illuminates when the connection is only pressed against one side of the fuse, the fuse is faulty. If the test light fails to light at all, regardless of where it's connected to the fuse, you definitely need to replace the fuse.But wait, you're not done -- once you put in a new fuse, you'll need to test it again. If both lights trigger, the fuse is working and the repair is complete. If the new fuse doesn't work while you have a foot on the pedal, the circuit itself is shorted out. That's a more complicated and expensive fix, which will need to be handled by a professional mechanic.Hope it helps.
What problems go along with a bad catalytic converter?
A clogged catalytic convertor causes the symptoms of a loss of power when accelerating or going up a hill. This is an often overlooked cause of loss of power, can cause check engine fault codes and lights, and mechanics will often change a few parts unnecessarily , especially if it is only partially plugged. A couple ways I check for plugged cats when a low power complaint is a symptom, and other obvious basic maintenance items have been checked for service is to have someone hold the rpm at about 1800 to 2000 steady. Then check for a good push of exhaust with my hand from behind the tailpipe. A plugged or partially plugged cat typically leaves a hot sickly feeling exhaust flow from the tailpipe. Compare to a known good working car nearby, known to be performing properly and with the same amount of cylinders. That slow , hot sickly flow at 2000 rpm compared to the hard push blowing your hand away of a not clogged cat is a dead giveaway, and I have NEVER misdiagnosed a plugged cat , or made false diagnosis with this method. Another way is watching a vacuum gauge connected to the intake manifold. When revving up, if the exhaust is plugged the gauge reading will climb then begin to slowly drop as the exhaust pressure builds up. Further testing will be needed to verify which part of the exhaust is plugged. Diagnostic by codes is unreliable and until now I had not heard of it. A code p420 only refers to catalyst efficiency. And can be set by faulty o2 sensors. Removing the exhaust and testing for engine power returning to normal works. But the hot sickly flow has been most accurate with my experience, in several cases where shops had missed it, were stumped and called me to come check. They are always embarrassed for missing the simplicity, but need not, as cars and their complicated electronics and even age old problems can lead to loss of power without any immediately obvious cause.
Brake lights won't turn off (2001 ford escort)?
The brake lights won't turn off in my 2001 Ford Escort. At first I thought it was a bad brake light switch... but I replaced it and the lights still will not turn off. I found a small rubber disc on the floor of my car and though maybe it was a spacer or something but when I checked the brake pedal bar there was still one on the new switch. Anyone got any useful ideas before I take it to a mechanic?
What do I do if my steering wheel locks while driving?
In a normal car, the steering will only lock if you switch of the engine and remove the key while the car is in motion and then steerSo as long as the engine is on? The steering should not lockNow let's say you are in Motion and you're steering locks, please apply breaks asap and when the car has stopped, insert the key and/or turn the key to start the car and simultaneously turn the steering wheel, your steering would unlockHope it helps!!