My brake pedal vibrates or somewhat kick back on my foot whenever I step on it in the snow or ice. What could be the problem?
Not sure what all the nasty responses are all about …It’s normal. If you car is a newer model it may have 4-wheel anti-lock brakes. The anti-lock brake system does exactly what it’s name says; prevents the wheels from locking and skidding …the idea you have more control of your car with the tires rolling than with them skidding or sliding on the road surface.When you have less than ideal road conditions …like wet or snow slick roads or driving on unpaved roads ..it’s a lot easier to induce a skid …to lock one or more of your wheels when braking. The anti-lock (or anti-skid as it’s also referred to) kicks in and actually rapidly releases and reapplies brake pressure to the wheel(s) experiencing a skid or are locked. The primary device that does this lives in the engine bay and consists of a small electric motor and a bunch of valves and the whole thing is controlled by a computer.What you are feeling in the brake pedal, when the anti-lock system engages, is the the rapid release and reapply action of the system as it works. You might even hear a soft or muted whirring sound …which would be that electric motor running …when the anti-lock system is active.EDIT:Some advice Teodulo: If every time, or very frequently, when you apply brakes to slow and/or stop you trigger the anti-lock system you might consider modifying your braking technique. You see, because the wheel brakes are locking/skidding and releasing you are *not* getting the maximum stopping power of the vehicle for simple stops (for stop signs/traffic lights/stop and go traffic). It would be better *not* to have the anti-skid system engage when stopping when you are driving on slippery roads. To do this you have to anticipate and react sooner to stops. Slow the vehicle down by coasting (take the foot off the gas) and gently apply the brakes sooner. Rapid or aggressive application of your brakes as if the road were dry is *NOT* the way to drive on slick roads …and the slicker the toad the more gentle and sooner you have to try and slow and stop the vehicle.
Opel corsa b vibration in steering and brake pedal under braking?
i am having a vibration in the brake pedal and the steering when slightly applying brake, this problem is making me go mad can someone help me please i have changed the following parts ( steering rack, wishbones, ball joints, diskbrakes from solid to ventilated, rear hubs, brake pads and shoes, front hubs, a set of new rims, master cylinder, calipers) i dont know what else to change, could it be a warped or not centered front diskbrake? can someone help me please i need urgent help my e-mail is shockyboy@hotmail.com i will appreciate very much if someone knows the right solution for the problem i am having
My Toyota is vibrating while in Drive at a stop with brake pedal pressed..help...?..?
I have a 2002 Toyota Highlander 3.0 FWD. If i get in the car and start the engine and sit in the car while in Park, i have very very little vibration, i would almost call it normal just how the car feels while sitting in Park. If i then put it in reverse while still holding the brake pedal, i get a small vibration, not too much to notice either. BUT if i then put it in Drive, the ENTIRE vehicle vibrates and shakes. This is all while the brake pedal is pressed, so i'm not moving. For instance, if i am driving and come to stop at a Red light, while sitting at the red light with the brake pedal pressed the entire vehicle shakes and vibrates. IF i put the car into neutral the vibration stops and feels fine; throw it back into drive and it starts again. Anyone had any clue what this could be? It doesn't seem to affect the driving of the vehicle at all...its just extremely annoying and i don't want anything to fall apart.
My brake pedal was vibrating and my car started making this LOUD thumping noise...What is wrong??
your rotors could be warped or your calipers are worn out, you need to have that checked asap, you can't play around with your brakes, first make sure your wheels are not loose, check your lugnuts, good luck
Steering wheel vibrates when braking hard?
Your assumptions are correct, the symptoms are typical of a rotor which is no longer asymmetrical. Alignment,tires/balance will not cause the symptoms as you describe. Poor quality materials or impoper service technique from your brake job could be now manifesting themselves into problems. Some rotors will warp if overheated by extended hard braking and subjected to rainwater or immersion in flooded conditions. Poor mating or failure of replacement brake pads will also cause this problem. Its time to get the car to the shop to find out for sure. Good luck with your project.
Odd vibration coming from applied gas pedal?
So here's the issue. I just want a little feedback, I plan on having my boyfriend look at it as soon as I can since his job is working on cars. My issue is, there's this odd vibration and noise that happens when my gas pedal is applied. This first started whenever I would hit a bump while applying my brakes. Then it moved to here and there when I would hit my brakes, and now it's when I hit my gas pedal only. I already know I need front brake pads and rotors and I'm already getting those changed next time I meet my boyfriend at his work. Also my passenger side ABS sensor is out, so I don't know if that could play a part in this. My car is a 2002 Chevy Cavalier with roughly 82000 miles on it. Any help on giving me an idea of what is wrong will be helpful. Thanks!
What can cause a steering wheel to shake and vibrate?
As others have said, it’s usually down to wheel alignment or balance and is usually noticeable after a tyre change if the change wasn’t properly handled. Occasionally this can also be caused by one of the weights placed on the wheel by the garage to balance it suddenly detaching (though this is rare).However, if you notice any sudden change, I’d certainly advise you to stop IMMEDIATELY and check what’s wrong.One day, a few days after a tyre change, my steering started to noticeably start wobbling badly as I was overtaking someone at 70Mph on the motorway. Due to the suddenness and violence of the wobble, I assumed one of the lead balances had suddenly come off and I decided to pull in immediately to the hard shoulder but as I was pulling in below 40 Mph, there was an almighty bang and shudder in the car and I found myself watching the left wheel of the car running away into the distance - luckily off the motorway, into a field.I managed to steer onto the hard shoulder with the car running on 3 wheels and the brake disk of the missing wheel - it turns out that the garage hadn’t tightened the nuts well enough and they came loose and out mid drive.Motorway recovery eventually retrieved the wheel for me and as the tyre garage was within a mile of the motorway (and I was quite close to that junction) they drove me there with my car on their flatbed truck. The manager of the garage went ashen when I explained what had happened but as the only damage was an almost unnoticeable large but gentle dent in the bodywork where the wheel had hit as it went off on its bid for freedom, they were able to fix it with new nuts and get me back on the road quickly.Extremely scary experience though. Modern tyre garages tend to do a final tighten with a wrench for safety if they’ve used the compressed air spanner - something that hadn’t happened in my case. I now always ensure this is done before I leave the premises.
Does anyone know if the height of the Hyundai Elantra brake pedal is adjustable?
It's too high up from the floor. My toes slip off the brake unless I lift my leg quite high every time I move from gas to brake. (I am exactly average size for a US female, so I don't think this should require any special accomodation.) Is anyone else having this problem? I don't mind, except that it's started to hurt my back. I would love (LOVE) to buy this car, but I've driven this model (2007 GLS) twice for an hour each time, and by the end of the hour my back hurts. Any thoughts would be appreciated.