Can you use a single carburetor in place of 4 carburetor motorcycle carbs?
Well I assume you COULD, but how easy would it be? I’ve worked on multi unit carbs for motorcycles before and I absolutely hate it. Trying to get all the carbs to perform in the exact same way is a pain in the **** and 4 times the work to rebuild and clean. I assume switching to a single carburetor might lose me a little bit of efficiency and power, but as long as it isn’t substantial it doesn’t matter. Also would probably need to create a new manifold. But how difficult or expensive would it be to just get a single, simple carburetor and tune it to the new engine? Does anyone already know of a cheap eBay carburetor that might work for this? The bike is an older (unknown year) Suzuki gsx600r engine. Came with carbs but I don’t even want to bother messing with them.
Why do motorcycles require valve adjustments when automobiles don't require them?
Car and motorcycle engines (except 2 strokes…) need valve adjustment, or at least checking from time to time. For cars the recommended intervals might be every 60 or 120 000miles! Unless the mechanics do not hear ant valve clatter, they will avoid messing around with the valve clearances. If your car engine has roller/follower valve train and hydraulic tappets, it might mot be listed as a maintenance point, and will likely never be needed.Car engines do rev to about 5000 or even 8000 RPM, and if you drive a hypercar, well valves will need adjusting, and those services are very expensive. Your normal car usually us driven between 1500 and 3500 RPM, not very exciting.Compare this to a motorcycle engine, where the lower level of redlining is around 8000 RPM, modern 4 cylinder sport bikes rev up to 18 000 RPM, many small volume bikes allways rev high (around 8–10 000). The valves are forces onto their seats by springs, and the higher the RPM, the stronger those springs have to be. If you have desmodromic, you are out of luck regarding the valve adjustments you will need them a lot.High revs and strong springs put more strain in the valve train; the rockers and valve surfaces can wear,increasing valve clearance (causing clatter) and the valves wearing out heir seats can decrease the valve clearance (more dangerous, as it can lead to open exhaust valves and excess heating, burning more of the valve seats and overheating the engine till it blows). Bikes are also often only aircooled, allowing for bigger temperature changes, which need a bigger valve clearance (when cold, the valve gets longer as it heats up), so valves wear more when the engine is cold.That is why bikes need their valves checked more often than cars, even if bikes now also often have hydraulic tappets.
How should you go about starting a motorcycle that has been sitting for years?
Do not try to start it or turn the crankshaft by any means before you do what others have suggested here, especially making sure pistons/rings are not stuck or fused to the cylinders.Drain and replace all fluids (engine, brake and other oils, coolant, gas).Replace oil, air and fuel filters.Inspect all rubber/plastic components (tires, gaskets, bushings, dampers, grommets, belts, etc.) and replace everything that is grayed out, stiffened or cracked. Tires older than a couple of years should be replaced.Clean/inspect the entire fuel system, starting with the tank, petcock and fuel/breathing hoses, ending with the carburetors or fuel injection jets.Check, clean and reconnect all electrical connections/plugs. Do the same with lights while you are at it. Pay extra attention to the ignition system and ECU.Battery is almost certainly dead. Get a new one.For chain driven bikes inspect the chain and replace with both sprockets if necessary. For shaft, re-lube or replace oil.Make sure all controls, from switches to handlebar to brake levers, work as they should.Thoroughly inspect brakes. Replace brake pads, cables, hoses if necessary.Make sure everything that needs to move is cleaned, lubed and works smoothly. Levers, switches, suspension, wheels, steering…Replace spark plugs.Once you’ve done all that, try to manually turn the crankshaft with spark plugs out and battery disconnected (use a wrench or turn kick-starter by hand). If it turns smoothly (it will if it didn’t rust and fuse piston rings to the cylinder wall) keep turning it a few times while spraying some WD-40 or similar through the spark plug holes. If it doesn’t turn easily or at all, you’ll have to take the engine apart.Congratulations, you are ready to start! It will take some cranking to get it started, so be prepared to kick start a lot or re-charge the battery. I suggest running it with some cheap oil for a few dozen Km, then drain and replace it with good synthetic. Adding SeaFoam to oil and tank the first time is a good idea too,Take it for a test ride very carefully and pay attention to what it sounds and feels like. Imagine that anything can go wrong at any time until you are satisfied that everything works as it should.
What can cause a motorcycle to drop to O instead of idle when the clutch is pulled in and coasting to a stop at a light? I have changed the coils, plugs, air filter, cleaned the TPS, synced the throttle body and had the valves checked.
Check your idle speed. It needs to be set correctly for your bike. Usually somewhere between 800 and 1300 rpm depending on the bike. The bike will stall if the idle speed isn’t set correctly.Check your fuel mixture. Too lean can cause stalls without adding throttle, too rich can flame out the bike with too much fuel to fast. Have you derestricted your airbox/filter and/or added an aftermarket exhaust without reprogramming your fuel map? That could lean out your mixture to the point the computer and fuel injection can’t compensate without a new fuel map.Check your air filter, air box and your exhaust system for blockages. Not being able to move air through the system can cause stalls.Fuel pressure? Fuel filter?The next three paragraphs are for carbs and I see you have fuel injection:If you have a carburetor, your idle circuit might need a really good cleaning. If you clean that, clean the entire carb and refresh the parts that are worn.More obscure, but have you checked your petcock? If you have a vacuum operated petcock and the vacuum line is leaking, you may not have enough vacuum to keep the petcock open at idle, starving the engine for fuel.A sticking carb float might do that, but that is usually an intermittent problem.I think you have an gas problem here, less likely an air flow problem. If all of that checks out, then move on to the third thing: electric/electronic problems.
What will happen to my motorbike if I keep on riding in reserve petrol condition? What is the actual difference between the main and the reserve petrol condition in my motorcycle?
There's a metal pipe in your petrol tank, perpendicular to it. It has two holes. One on top of it, one on bottom. Fuel goes to the engine from either of those holes.When the tank is full, the pipe is completely submerged. At full tank, your bike is in ON. At ON, the top hole is open and bottom is closed. As your fuel decreases, there would be a time when fuel level drops below the top hole. That means, the fuel can no more reach the engine. That's when your vehicle starts jerking and you put it on RESERVE.Now, the top hole closes and bottom hole opens. Now the engine can have the rest of the fuel in fuel tank. When the fuel comes at reserve level, there's approx 20% fuel left.Without the reserve, you'd never know how much fuel is left in the tank! That's the purpose of reserve. Fuel level indication.In most modern bikes, there's a fuel indicator, so there's no need of reserve.Now, to your question. If you keep on driving on reserve, you'll ultimately use all your fuel and the tank would become empty. You'll be pushing your bike to the fuel station.
How do I resolve the tappet sound problem in a Royal Enfield motorcycle?
TAPPET NOISE (Tik Tik Sound) is one of the major problem in new UCE engines of Royal Enfield bikes.Tappet is used to control valves.The valves are controlled using tappet with the help of tappet rod, cam wheel , rocker arm.The Cam wheel is connected to the Crank shaft, when the crank shaft rotates the cam wheel rotates. This cam shaft is connected to tappet rod, the tappet rod is connected to the tappet and again there is tappet rod which is connected to rocker arm which is located at the engine head and which interm moves the valves.Note:This diagram is a four cylinder engine meant for better understanding.Tappet noise in old Royal Enfield :In old Royal Enfield bikes the tappets are adjustable. so when the tappet noise increases the noise can be reduced by adjusting the tappets.Tappet noise in new Royal Enfield :In new Royal Enfield bikes the tappets used are hydraulic tappets which cannot be adjusted. So it's not possible to reduce the tappet sound. The tappet noise in new royal enfield engine can be reduced by adjusting the cam wheels but that only helps to reduce the tappet noise for a short period when the vehicle runs a long distance the engine heaten up and the tappet noise will again comes,this is due to the clearance made by the tappet,cam wheels and other engine parts when the engine heaten up. And also this is to reduce the wear and damages that is occuring to the engine.There is no need to worry when we hear tappet noise. It's is occurring due to the clearance made by the tappet when the engines becomes heated. This is to reduce the wear and tear of engine parts and also to avoid engine problems.But if the tappet noise sound will exceed the limit, then you should contact the service centre for an advice.
How hard is it to maintain/upkeep on a classic motorcycle, Like a 1974 Honda CB?
Planning on getting one, just curious on how much maintenance is going to cost on a semi restored one. Ive heard since its carborated its going to be a pain in the *** is this true?
What are some symptoms of a bad idle air control sensor?
Idle air control valves open to allow more air to "leak" into the intake, raising the engine rpms, or close when not needed. When your AC compressor kicks in or power steering is activated as you suddenly turn the steering wheel, the sudden drag on the drive belt will bog down the engine. These systems send a signal to the engine computer telling it they are active and it then signals the IAC valve to open, which increases the engine speed. Without this occurring, the engine could struggle, or die. The IAC valve can cause weird idle issues, mess with throttle functionality or cause the car to die. Sometimes they fail, get stuck or just get all carboned up. Sometimes people have success at cleaning them, but generally it is best to replace them when bad. Idle issues and even problems with the IAC valve may not be due to the IAC valve being bad itself. An idle issue does not mean the IAC valve is bad. It is best to pay close attention to how the vehicle is acting, and then communicate that clearly and as completely as possible to your mechanic. Intermittent problems can be very hard to diagnose. Details will help. Knowing more about the vehicle in question and its symptoms (in detail) will also help in understanding more about what it is doing.
How can a fuel injection engine change to a carburetor?
It depends on the engine and it's more common to go from carburetor to fuel injection not the other direction. On some engines you would still have an ECU for spark and timing control or the transmission. On other engines it's relatively straight forward.The lower intake has to be changed for one with a place to mount a carburetor. On some throttle body fuel injection setups you can swap one for the other without changing the intake. In most cases a different manifold is required.The fuel pressure for fuel injection is higher 40+psi, a low pressure pump is ideal and a fuel pressure regulator for carb level psi around 5psi. Is needed. The fuel rails or fuel lines need changed at least for the last few feet.The ignition system needs to no longer be computer controlled. That might mean an MSD style ignition box or just a coil and distributor swap, it depends on the engine and what it originally had.Your ignition and computer are probably the hardest parts, getting the engine to fire up again might take some extra effort.Air, fuel and spark will all need some attention. Going from carb to throttle body fuel injection is more common lately and it might be less effort to upgrade your fuel injection from stock to something better instead of going to a carb.On a small block Ford or Chevy it's really pretty easy to convert and probably -$1000 especially if you use used parts you could probably convert for under $500.Finding out what your car needs to start without an ECU or how to confuse it to be able to start is something you'll have to look up for the specific engine/car in question.On some engines the conversion is probably impossible without fabricating an intake manifold. Others, you can find the parts on Craigslist or the junkyard and it might only take an afternoon or two.