Big Car Audio Advice Need Please :-)?
At the moment I'm running as follows: 3 x DB Audio T-Rex 3000 watt subs (each) 1 x 8000 watt mono D amp 1 x 2000 watt amp to run front and rear speakers 1 x Front components 1 x Rear 6.5inch 1 x Yellow top battery (To run the system) Pioneer double din head unit 0 gage cable And one massive fuse in the engine bay. My question is - I want to take my back seats out so I can get a load more bass (a not which makes you feel sick) but I don't know if to get more 12's or go for 2/3 15's on top of the 3 12's I have at the moment. Yes the bass is excellent but I have got use to it. The bass makes it look like the front window screen wants to pop and the car goes mental, but the long of it is... I WANT MORE!!! lol Can someone please advice me if I need more 12's or should I mix it up a bit and have my 3 12's and 2 or 3 15's on top. Thank you for reading :-) 2 days ago - 2 days left to answer. The specs of each item is below: - Amplifier - 1200w RMS x1 @ 4 ohms 2300w RMS x1 @ 2 ohms 4000w RMS x1 @ 1 ohms 8000 Watts Max Power Regulated power supply MOSFET power supply Oversize Power Tranformer Bipolar Output devices Dimensions (L x W x H) 480mm x 250mm x 55.5mm Variable gain adjustment Variable cross over (high/low pass) Thermal protection Overload protection 1 ohms Stable Variable Subsonic Filter 20Hz- 50Hz Low pass filter frequency 50Hz - 250Hz Digital Subwoofer Level Control Bass Boost Subwoofers - 3000 watts 12' subwoofer 1000 watts RMS Black powder finish die cast basket Kevlar woven nonpress paper cone with EROM foam surround 3' hi-temp 4-layer voice coil Double stacked 200oz magnets Mirror-image multi-layer nomex spiders Chrome finished T-yoke with logo etched Dual 2ohm impedance Chrome push termianl Rubber gasket Rubber magnet boot I know I will need more amps and batteries
I need car audio advice and opinions on a set up.?
Hello, to start off with some detail i am looking for a sound system that is going to put off a nice balance of bass and treble weather loud or quiet. I'm looking for more of a surround Sound feel then someone who buys 1200Wrms subs with explosive amps and shakes the glory out of there car lol. I want something that is loud enough to show off but clean and clear sound as well. So back to the question i need advice on anything i might be missing or that i should buy to make my dream come true (like if i would want 12", more wattage, less, capacitor, etc). This is my setup so far that i'm going to purchase. (2) energy line 10" sub woofers (Energy makes good quality home sound systems and there sub woofer is supposedly good for high and low frequency). These subs run at 600w peak, and 200Wrms. (Link: http://www.futureshop.ca/en-CA/product/energy-energy-10-car-subwoofer-enc10b-enc10b/10146374.aspx?path=cb258ee85120cf9ce64e5932edadfd05en02&lid=fp-10146374-energyenergy10carsubwooferenc1-en) (2) 6 1/2's Energy car speakers, these run at 80Wrms and 120 peak. ( http://www.futureshop.ca/en-CA/product/energy-energy-6-5-2-way-car-speaker-enc650x2-enc650x2/10146275.aspx?path=7c4ad464c38be69d4cd7d804c3e4e1f3en02 ) (2) 6x9's in the back seat under neath the rear wind shield mounted. These run at 120Wrms and 250peak. http://www.futureshop.ca/en-CA/product/energy-energy-6-x-9-3-way-car-speakers-enc693x2-enc693x2/10146373.aspx?path=6745c618863f85621a7819c926e624d8en02 Amps: i have 1 power akoustic 2 channel amp that gives out 250Wrms to each channel, which will be used for my subs. and 1 power akoustic 4 channel amp that runs 100Wrms per channel and can be made into 2 channels of 200wrms each. this will be for my speakers. Okay so this is your part. please give suggestions, opinions, anything to help me out here. Thanks
Car audio advice - sub and amp setup?
I have a '98 TF Magna with a Pioneer headunit with 1x pre-out). Will most likely be purchasing this sub: Sony BOX124P5B http://www.sony.com.au/product/box124p5b Specifications: * Size (cm): 30 / 12" * Type: Enclosure * Peak Power (W): 1300 * Rated Power (W): 380 * Impedance (ohms): 4 * Frequency Response (Hz): 18-2k * Sensitivity (dB): 89 * Diaphragm Material: Injected Polypropylene * Magnet Material: Ferrite * Enclosure Volumn:: 27.3Lit/0.96cu.ft * Weight Approx. (kg): 4.5 Hoping someone could tell me the amp requirements for this sub. On a bit of a budget here so don't want the best, just what would happily work well. Any from here? Or cheap alternatives? http://www.jbhifi.com.au/car-sound/amplifiers/ Ta
What are some tips for car audiophiles?
Take time, a lot of it, chosing the position for your speakers. Never listen for more than 1 hour. After a certain amount of time your brain will start playing tricks on you (you do not listen with your ears alone you use your brain too).Listen in the morning and at the end of the day (it will sound very different). Use a space with no humidity and constant temperature.Use speakers in the back only to help create ambience. Remember to use the phase of the subwoofer to your advantage. If possible add a small one in the front. Use all positioning tricks possible to create a good stage. Remember, measurings alone will not take you far. You need a good set of ears. When measuring use freq sweeps and measure from several positions.Use a good processor, but process the least possible.Look for high quality loudspeaker driversChose your amplification carefullyThe head unit is very important tooCables are the link. There is not a single cable in the world that will improve the quality of your system. What they do is the oposite. They deteriorate the signal. So get the most "transparent" cable you can find.Take care of your car bodywork. Sound treatment is crucial for any Installation.Have fun while doing it :)
If my car battery dies and I get a jump, how soon do I need to replace the battery?
Batteries have a service life expectancy, but it can be shortened by some conditions. One is hot weather. It isn't winter that kills your battery -- it's the heat of summer. We tend to notice battery failure in the winter, when demand on the battery is higher.Another factor that shortens battery life can be allowing a discharged battery to sit for a long time. The plates of the battery form an accumulation in a chemical reaction that cannot be reversed.But all batteries break down with time. If your battery is several years old it may need to be replaced. It is also possible that there is an electrical problem with your car, but faults of this nature can be tracked down. Here's a test you can do if you are fairly mechanically competent but take note: some car audio systems will go into a security lock down mode if the electrical supply is cut to zero volts. If your car audio has this feature then you will need to enter a code to reactivate the stereo.Wear safety glasses and gloves. Make sure the car is secure and that the ignition switch is turned off. Batteries pose a hazard due to the sulphuric acid they contain and the possibility of arc flash, so be careful.Disconnect the negative battery terminal set the negative wire of to the side, away from the positive terminal. Connect one lead of an ammeter to the negative post of the battery and the other ammeter lead to the clamp on the end of the negative battery cable.Take note of how many amps show on the ammeter. It should be a very small amount. If you note more than a couple of amps, then there may be a ground fault somewhere in the electrical system. You can isolate the exact location of the fault by systematically pulling fuses from the fuse block. When you see the current drop significantly, you will have located the circuit where the fault is occurring. Now you know where to look for the problem.Sometimes the problem lies in the ignition switch itself. Unfortunately I am not a mechanic, so I don't know the test for such a fault. If you look online, you may be able to find the test method there.If the battery was dead simply because you left the lights on, then it could be that there's no problem at all. If the battery held a charge after being boosted, you may be okay for now.However, if the battery is several years old it may be time to get a new one. Winter is coming and you don't want to find yourself stuck in the cold.Good luck.
What car speakers would an audiophile recommend?
Scan Speak, ADS, Focal, ZR Speaker-Labs, Morel Dynaudio, Transmission audio, Rogue, Feastrex, DLS, Audison THESIS etc.ZR Speaker Lab - ProductsSpeaker | RS-Audio ENBut to make the most out of them you should have some good quality gear behind themYes, even Panasonic has OneBut the fact that you have high quality speakers in your car, does not grantee you are going to have higher quality sound in it if you do not spend time placing them correctly and do some serious thought about "preparing" the car with some sort of "sound treatment" and devote some money in gear like a good sound processor to help you avoid all the issues with time alignment, phase, masking, comb filtering, etc etc.Imagine you have a car with a great sound quality, you sell the car, and you decide to keep the system for your new car. If you think it will sound the same on the new car just because it did on that one, you are in for a surprise. Just like if you were talking about home audio and different rooms the result will not be the same.There is also the mater of what sounds good to you and what kind of music you like to listen to. So, do not go spending an absurd amount of money on a pair of speakers, just because they are good, convinced that they will ensure great sound quality in your car. I have listened cars with very expensive speakers sound like crap and cars with cheap speakers sounding very acceptable, even good.Read this page. This is the best sound system created in a car (van) but if you read all about it you will have a better idea of what is like to try creating a high end system in your car.Magic BusNathan East (www.nathaneast.com) one of the most celebrated, eclectic, and in-demand bass guitarists of the past 35 years, someone who has played with artistslike Eric Clapton, George Harrison, Michael Jackson, Phil Collins, Whitney Houston, Beyoncé, Barbara Streisand, Stevie Wonder, Andrea Bocelli, Elton John, Chaka Khan, and many more, and is a founding member of the GRAMMY-nominated supergroup liked the sound in John Whitledge`s van among many others who signed it.Read more here: Nathan East Listens to the Magic Bus! - Car Audio
Need some advice with my 04 Pontiac Grand Prix and a new head unit?
yes that is correct you will have a lot of problems if you remove the radio and don't use the correct interface kaezoo link works and will do the job but you have to do a lot of wiring and lots of splicing to install to radios in the vehicle most of the times that harness don't reach to the trunk of the grand prix and some cables need to be extend i never like the idea of two radios in the car glove compartment or trunk i will just buy the correct interface, yes it cost more but you will be sure that there is never going to be a problem with the vehicles BCM sometimes this vehicles don't start and air bags stop working good luck this is the harness i always use
How do you fix a CD player in a car that keeps ejecting disks?
If you have never fixed any electronics, you probably don't. You are going to have to buy a new one. There's a chance that it's just a bad part, but the parts are probably not available. I have 25 years of electronics repair and I would just buy a new one.
When buying car audio amplifiers what matters more watts at RMS, amp quality, or other factors?
There are a lot of factors that go into buying a car audio amp, but the greatest factor in how your amplifier will perform will come from proper installation. It sounds easy, but most amps are not installed properly. A bad ground will lead to incessant engine whine or even damage to the amplifier. A poorly calibrated gain will cause clipping and distortion. Even an inexpensive amplifier from a big-box store can sound great if installed properly.So what about the factors to look for when buying a car audio amplifier? Start with the reasons you’re buying the amp in the first place. A high-quality amplifier is always preferred, but quality usually reflects price. Know that a Rockford Fosgate Power amp will perform better than a Punch amp which will be better than a Prime amp. They’re designed to meet different price points; the Power amp is always better at the same wattage.If you’re trying to make trade-offs, here’s some tough choice guidance:A high S/N ratio - or signal-to-noise ratio - helps reduce background noise, and can be more forgiving if you have a noisy electrical environment. More important for amps for non-subwoofers. Look for a minimum of 80db.If the amp is for speakers other than subwoofers, be they separates or coaxials, spend the money for quality over wattage. It is more important to have clean power to give life to the music than volume for mid-bass, vocals, piano, snares, etc.If the amplifier is for a subwoofer, you want to match the RMS wattage to the rated power of the sub. A lower-quality amp is okay if you just want volume, but it may run hotter or be more sensitive to electrical issues in your car. People will disagree with me on this, but I ran a lot of California Amps back in the day and had great results as long as I kept them cool.What do you need for features? Are you wiring this into a factory radio? If so, you need speaker-level inputs. Do you need a crossover? Most aftermarket radios include their own crossovers, but depending on your setup you might prefer this at the amp. Features will make-or-break your purchase.Warranty: You might laugh, but I had a set of $800 Kicker separates that had a bad crossover. I sent it back and they replaced the entire set.As an aside, I try to buy products made in the U.S.A. Most are made all over now, but I know JL Audio has U.S. factories. If this is a factor for you, call the company.