How does someone know whether a car battery is dead and needs to be replaced or just needs a jump start?
A majority of car owners have seen bad car days when they have put the key in the ignition just to find that the car is not starting. The first thought that comes to mind at that time is to identify the culprit, which probably is the battery or alternator in most instances.Here are a few tips to help you to verify whether the battery is dead or just needs a jump start:Checking The Car BatteryStart by checking the dashboard battery gauge to find out whether the battery is sending a charge even when the car is switched off. A dim, flickering light indicates that the battery power is being used up by something.Next, check the commonly used connections such as the windshield wipers, automatic window openers, and brake lights. Turn them off and then try to start the car again.In case it fails to start, wipe the corrosion from the battery with a rag. Try using a jump starter to get it started and run the motor for a while and then turn the car off. If it doesn't get restarted, this indicates that the alternator is working and keeping the battery operational while the motor is running. The problem is actually with the battery as it is unable to retain the charge without the alternator's aid.One thing to bear in mind while evaluating the battery's performance is the time it was installed. Typically, a car battery needs to be replaced every three to four years and if your battery has been installed before that, it might be having issues. With age, it loses its capacity to retain a charge due to the corrosion of the metal inside. This is the time when you have to think about buying a battery for your car. You can buy it from any nearest battery retailer/supplier or order it online from an online battery store.
How to start a 2008 ninja 250R after it's been sitting all winter in my garage?
All of these suggestions are excellent---fuel contamination, battery discharge, fuel petcock trouble---but do NOT underestimate the likelihood of carburetor varnish formation on the Ninja 250R. I have owned no fewer than eight of these bikes in as many years---the last one I sold to my room mate a few months ago---my wife rides one, and so do several coworkers. For a number of reasons having to do with the specific carburetor size and design on this bike, even letting the bike sit for a few weeks can result in significant varnish issues. I first noticed the problem years ago after storing bikes for a few months without fuel stabilizer, but as ethynol became standard in all motor fuels, the problem seems to have become much worse. In fact, I recently cleaned my room mate's carburetors after she went on vacation for ten days. When I pulled out the pilot jets, there was absolutely no visible passage left. Since there are many different reasons bikes might not start when turned over, I usually proceed with this strategy: First, after verifying the battery is charged, and after checking the fuel level and quality, and cycling the petcock, I try to start it with the choke. If it can start with the choke but dies immediately after removing it (even with the engine warm), that's pretty much an automatic sign for me to look at the carbs. If it has trouble starting with the chock as well, it may or may not be the carburetor---I'll check a few other things first, but will still likely come back to the carburetor. The other things I'll check are spark (make sure you get spark at the plugs---if not, check the voltage to the coils to root out problems with the generator or related circuitry), the vaccuum lines, and the fuel lines. A 250R is an incredibly simple bike so there's really not much too these things---check the spark, fuel and air---the problem is virtually always one of these. If you can get the bike running at least a little, using a solvent/cleaner such as SeaFoam can sometimes help. You also might consider using a fuel stabilizer like StaBil for longer term storage (or at least running your engine dry by cutting off the petcock until it stops). I should note that while I've had carburetor varnish issues at least once on every carbureted sport bike I've ever owned, I've never seen it to the extent that I do on the 250R, and I've never seen it so pronounced as in the last year or two.
What should you do when you come to an unmarked railroad crossing?
Use common sense. If unprotected, LOOK and LISTEN. If view is obstructed, STOP, LOOK and LISTEN. Keep in mind crossing protective devices ARE NOT FAIL SAFE. That is a popular misconception. There is usually battery back up for power failure, but there are other causes of protection failure. Twice in my own career I have operated trains, moving at track speed (40 MPH for one, 60 MPH for the other) and crossed highways with crossing protection that was INOPERATIVE. You'll never have a freight train come looking for you, but they'll be quite indifferent about killing you, unless YOU stay out of THEIR way. What this means is, even with crossing protection in place, you still take life (or death) into your own hands when you cross. Isn't a second or two spent in caution worth a life? How about 100's of lives? A car and its occupants are usually immediately turned into graphite when hit by a train moving at speed, but the train can be derailed during the process. This can get others at the crossing dead as well when the train scatters all over hell and back. Of course, toxic and or explosive freight is nearly always present as well. Any lack of caution can have terrible consequence.