How do I fix an engine that seized because of no oil?
Since you are even asking this question in the first place, I’m assuming that you are perhaps not aware of what it means to seize an engine from oil starvation. When you starve an engine of oil, things start to weld together. This is why engines seize. Things can even weld together to such a degree that the engine (or at least certain parts of it) is literally not repairable. I have seen, for instance, cams that are welded to heads to such a degree that the only option is to throw them away and replace. The same can go for crankshafts or even pistons in cylinders.Regardless, even in the best cases, an engine rebuild is in order. Given that most (if not all) rotating and sliding surfaces in the engine are likely damaged, you will probably be replacing all bearings, pistons, rings, camshaft, rockers/lifters, and oil pump (among other things). You will need to rebore the block and probably regrind the crank. And if the engine is an overhead cam engine with machined surfaces in the head for the cam(s), you will likely be replacing the head(s). Needless to say, this is going to be a very expensive, laborious, and time consuming process. And it may or may not be worth it. Oftentimes, unless there is something REALLY special about the engine (like a rare engine, numbers matching classic car, etc), replacement is a better option. Rebuilding may also be a good option if you want to upgrade the engine internals for performance reasons. But even in this instance, you must carefully consider whether the engine is damaged beyond reasonable repair. It might be better here to start with another longblock.When it comes to replacement, there are a few options. You can often purchase low mileage engines imported from Japan for a fairly low cost. For Japanese cars, this is a GREAT option. Alternately, you can almost certainly pick up a used engine from a salvage yard or private party on craigslist for FAR less than it would cost to rebuild your current engine. Buying a rebuilt engine is another option. This is more expensive than the previous two options. But an engine from a reputable rebuilder can be in basically new condition and last a long time.
Seized Engine? Repair, rebuild, or replace?
If the motor is seized, it means that part/s of the engine have become friction welded together. Most often the rings do this first. An obstruction in a cylinder often punches a hole in the piston. But not always. If it is an obstruction, the motor should be able to be hand turned in the counter rotation. If the motor can not be rotated it is time to replace the engine. A rebuild able block can often be purchased for the labor charge that goes with removing the piston/s that are stuck hard. So remove the spark plugs, and try to turn the engine either direction. If it does not turn, plan on a replacement engine. On this a choice needs to be made. A salvage yard engine is the cheapest solution, a refurbished rebuilt engine is a bit more expensive, and a custom rebuild costs as much as one from the dealer. Time wise one from the salvage yard is the quickest solution. The most time consuming one is getting a salvage yard engine and having it rebuilt for performance. But if the engine will rotate backwards, then the problem could just be a timing belt failure and getting the head fixed along with a new timing belt might be all that is needed. Now, if you don't think you can handle the work- find a reliable shop and have it towed in to be fixed. Get prices for repairs first (maximum based on selection of solutions when exact extent of damage is known). Be careful on this, as labor to take an engine apart to see if it can be repaired is often as much as the cost for just going ahead with a salvage yard engine.
Engine seized in recently purchased car.?
I bought a 2003 Nissan Altima (64k miles) from the Nissan dealership Dec 5th and the engine seized yesterday on January 1st. I haven't had the oil changed since I bought the car because they changed it right before I bought the car (mid Nov) . It didn't do any knocking or clatttering or anything and no indicator light ever went on. What do I do?
What does it mean when the engine is seized?
Engine seizure is normally the result of a failure of the lubrication system. It is often where a piston has friction welded itself to the cylinder bore. Sometimes it will be the big end bearing , the main bearings or the small end bearing. The net result is the same, though. The engine cannot be rotated. If you are very lucky, and the siezure is only slight, then the engine may free up again when it cools down. But damage will still have been done. Until water cooling and special oils were developed, racing two stroke engines were notorious for piston siezures.
Which parts is affected when the engine is seized?
First way: the connecting rod (or rods) fused (seized) to the crankhaft rod journal,due to the rod bearing having been destroyed seconds before; if this happens at highway speed,usually (always!) the connecting rod breaks,and the rotating crankshft throws it through the side of the engine block breaking a hole in it.This sounds like thunder, and either the engine stops pulling,or the driver coasts to a stop; new engine sometimes needed,because of the high cost of rebuilding that one; »»»this will not be called a seized engine,it´s now a blown engine; I M PO R T A N T to notice that these types of problems are A L W A Y S caused by lack of O I L .But,you say,the engine had oil! Sure,but,what i mean is that the O I L was not getting to W H E R E it was needed—-lack of oil,T H E R E ; because the oil pump broke,or it´s drive system,chain,bolt,rod,etc broke,or the oil was too old,jelly like,and could not flow,the oil filter was old,plugged up, defective,not allowing the oil to circulate; or an overheating of the engine,leading to an overheating and destruction of the rod bearings.Second way: a piston,or pistons,expanding due to the engine overheating,and scuffing (scratching) the cylinder wall; in extreme cases there is fusion between the piston ,and the cylinder wall,and the engine stops,seized. Aluminum pistons expand greatly ,if the engine overheats;Note: ALL cars should have a low (cooling) water level indicator light,with a simple sensor(just two stainless wires ) in the expansion tank,and sometimes a dedicated timer/relay; this would only cost a few cents,at the factory, but it would prevent lots of engine losses; but,manufacturers leave it out in most cars,knowing very well that statistically,when the car is 10 or more years old,a water (antifreeze) leak will spring somewhere,and an overheat will happen; if a hose busts,the water runs out in seconds,and if you A R E not looking at the temp gauge constantly(who is!) the engine I S toast; this way,T H E Y sell more new cars; it´s a H U G E failure of the GOVs, and their laws.Nobody should buy a new car, that they intend to keep for more than,say, 6 years,that does not have a low coolant warning .
Can an oil starved locked up engine be salvaged?
So my step brother ran his engine low on oil and locked up the motor. The vehicle we're talking about here is a 1996 chevy gmc sierra with the 350 vortec v8 (about 60,000 miles on motor). automatic trans. Im pretty familiar with engines and I know, that the right thing to do would be to get a new engine or have the locked-up one completely rebuilt. Here's my problem though. My family is hurting financially and no one has the money or time to mess with it extensively. So I was wondering.. When we pulled the truck home, and drained the oil, about 3/4 of a quart of oil came out.. My brother in law said the truck shut down fast when it quit..he hadn't drove it for more than 10 minutes and I was on the scene only 5 minutes after the lockup... The engine wasn't any hotter than what it normally is when one runs.. So I was wondering what was it exactly that probably locked up first inside the engine. I have heard of stories from a friend of mine who is a mechanic. He had told me, that sometimes, a person can get lucky by dropping the oil pan, taking off the main caps, and sliding in a new set of crank and rod bearings. Then throwing it all back together.. So what i am wondering is, has anyone done this hail marry before on a locked up engine? Has it worked ? I understand that I would probably have to tear the whole front of the engine off just to take the timing chain off so i could lower the crank.. And i may need to buy over-sized bearings and have the crank turned too.. but.. I was just wondering, wouldn't the aluminum bearings be the first to go ? and the steal crank might not need any attention?... since the motor didn't get that hot upon lock up... I don't know.. i just wanted to see what any other mechanics out there would think or if they have heard of this. I guess im just kinda interested in the whole thought of trying it for my own personal knowledge. I don't know what shape the heads and pistons and everything up top would be in though... That's why im asking... What would be the first thing to fail on a motor that is run low on oil. This piston rings ? the main bearings ? The rod bearings ? what ? Please let me know what you think guys! Im not looking for someone to give a dumb opinion of just getting a junkyard motor.. I know those options.. Im just interested in this option and wondering if it could work.