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F150 Wont Crank All Inside And Outside Lights Work

Why do my hazard lights work, but not my turn signals?

Hazard lights and turn signals use the same bulb, so it is not the bulb, the lamp, or the cables to them. Turn signals only work when the ignition is on; hazard lights work whether the ignition is on or not. The two systems have separate power supplies, so they have separate fuses. You may have a blown fuse.Different vehicles use different circuits, and it is not possible to accurately diagnose the fault with the small amount of information provided. You need a circuit diagram and a voltmeter, and a continuity tester. First locate and test the turn signal fuse. Do you have voltage to and from the turn signal switch?The hazard light switch is not a simple on/off switch. In the “on” position, a fused battery feed connects to left and right turn signal. In the “off” position, the left turn switch wire is connected to the left turn lamp and the right turn switch wire is connected to the right turn lamp, so there are 3 inputs and 2 outputs.The fault could be a fuse, turn signal switch, hazard switch, flasher unit, or a broken wire or connection.

Ford F150 Turns over but won't start?

please tell what year and what motor when asking as I can have about 10 answers depending upon year and motor...


check engine light on like that is normal... It's a bulb check and is supposed to be there

intermittant no start but turns over...
that eliminates the starter and solenoid.. tp senors would cause that on older (pre 96) trucks occasionally... injector wouldn't cause a no start without other symptoms like missing at other times....leaves the pump, the ignition, and the idle speed motor...


Huh? when the truck don't starts hold the throttle about part way and see if it starts and runs .. if yes.. need new motor if no look elsewhere

Pre 97 trucks were known for igniton module and distributor problems as well as an occasional coil problem. Check for fire when you have a no-start

For fuel pump, if no-start cycle the key on and off about 10 times and see if the truck starts.. could be fuel pump occasionally loosing prime

scan test it.. pre 1996 look on the net on how to pull codes.. post 96 ..go to autozone for a free scan of the codes.. codes will give you a possible idea... but a o2 sensor and p0401 won't make a intermittant no start

hardly no info makes diag hard....

Car will not crank, but lights, radio, and horn works....help?

I'm trying to figure out why my car will not crank but all the lights on the dashboard, the lights for the car, the radio, and the horn works. It's a 1991 honda accord LX 4cyl, 2door. When I flick the keys to the "on" position, everything lights up like normal - no dims, no nothing. When I try to start the car, I hear a "tink" sound from inside the dashboard, but the car wont crank. I've had a friend come to try and jump the car using jumper cables. I've decided to try and take it to SEARS and recharge the battery. If the battery is tested bad, then hopefully that's the end of it. If not, I'm not sure if the starter gave out. I doubt it thought because it makes no clicking sound when I try turning the car on. Any additional information on trying a couple tricks would be greatly appreciated.

94 f150 wont start. Turn key and one click and nothing?

Drove me to work fine, when i went to leave work, it wouldnt start. I sat in my truck, turned the key, everything worked, the radio, the lights, etc. just when i turned the key to crank the engine, it just 'click' and thats it. nothing.

I hit the starter a few times, still nothing. tried to jump this thing i forget what its called, its like right behind the battery. didnt work.

boosted the battery and everything, still nothing..

What could be the problem?

Battery light just came on in my car and steering wheel tightened up...?

I waS on my way home and my battery light came on so i turned off the air and the radio (thought maybe it would conserve some of the energy if the battery was dying. everytime i tried to turn a corner the steering wheel was sooo tight i had to force it to turn. I got home and turned the car off and back on a few times, turned the radio and the air back on to see if they still worked...everything was still working but the battery light was still on and the wheel was still locking up...does anyone know what would cause both of those things to happen at the same time?

My car won't start after metal touching positive post and it smoked. Could it just be the battery or something else?

First check all your fuse’s , yes every last one of them , most cars have a large fuse panel under the hood as well as in the passenger compartment, An then you also have what's called a “ Fusible Link “ , These are normally located going to High Amp Circuits , in your car , i.e. The starter , the alt , the fuse panels , Modern Cars have dozens of these Fusible Links , An they have different ratings that depends on the wire size going to that Component ( I think there are about 6 different gauges / sizes ). What happens when in your case a Direct Short , occurs it protects the wiring An various other electric components in your car ,, they melt down when large amounts of current pass thru them , most are covered in a Fire Resistance shrink tubing type material, An they are soldered on to the wiring of the various components , So grab your self a VOM Tester , or a Test Light use one for Computer Circuits - The VOM Meter would be a better choice , An starting looking for where there is no power where there should be power going , There's a old joke We Mechanics have - wires carry smoke thru them An when you let the smoke out there no good anymore, Good Luck , An hey don't let anymore smoke outta them wires , oh An if you find out it is a fusible link - don't let the Clown at the parts store try An sell you a 25 foot roll of it , tell them you only need like a foot ( 12 inches ) of it OK , An if they tell you otherwise go to another parts store as they are idiots ,

2003 5.4L F150 WONT START?

How old is the fuel filter? If its never been changed it may be your problem they can get clogged overtime. If that's not the case then you need to do a pressure test on the fuel pump it may be going out on you your fuel pressure regulator can also cause problems like this also. A check engine light will not come on for a failed fuel pump or regulator.

If your pump is bad and you decide to change it yourself I find it easier just to remove the bed than trying to drop the tank. If you have access to a lift its not bad but trying to drop the fuel tank on the ground is no fun.

Why won't my key come out of the ignition?

Most likely the steering wheel position or the shifter.Start by jiggling the steering wheel side to side while trying to remove it. There are positions where the locks and safety features line up just right to prevent you from removing it.Also make sure the car is fully in park. If the car thinks you're not fully in park it won't let you remove the key. Jiggle the shifter into park, make sure there's nothing blocking it from moving all the way up and making contact with the park/neutral safety switch (like a cell phone or other interior junk on the console). If that doesn't work, try shifting it out of park and then back into park.

My truck wont start, battery is fine, starter and solenoid tested fine?

My truck is a 1979 Chevy Custom Deluxe (C10) 4wd 8 cyl 350 . The battery is good, lights work everything electrical works. I took off the starter and solenoid and tested at Autozone, passed with no problems twice. When I turn the key, there is nothing, no click no turn over, just nothing but electrical power to the lights radio etc. The guy at the store said it could be the cables have rusted through somewhere between the engine and the starter, or the contacts are too rusted. But I would like some other ideas because the cables look ok. What do you think it could be?