1994 ford ranger tail lights not working?
Key on, engine off, engage the parking brake, turn the headlight on: Check all of the following light: The front parking lights, the license plate lights (Replace fuse #10/ 15A) cause both of these lights are parallel circuits. The turn signal lights, the brake lights, the back up lights. If all of them worked (Replace the burnt out bulb(s) with the correct type) your problem is at the C118, I think it would be safe to assume that the problem is a broken Brown wire (As I've seen from time to time on the same truck model year) around the connector C118 located at the drivers side rear of engine compartment. What you need to do is find this brown wire and follow it with a test light to see where its getting power and when it stops. There is a break in the brown wire just before a connector right in front of the drivers side rear wheel / shock area. You should be able to get it reconnected but may have to bypass the connector as there may not be enough wire in front of it for a connection. Here's the wiring diagram: You'll have to scroll down and choose the one for the exterior lights http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairi... Hope it help you out. Get someone to help you out if you're not familiar to look at the wiring diagram. HTH Edt: Drop me a message if you need more help, I'll see it on my phone. I won't have time to go back to the question to check up. HTH.
1990 ford ranger tail light issues?
You're right, the same filament does the stop and turn signal. Power flows from brake switch through the turn signal switch. You've probably got an intermittent contact in the turn signal switch. The left and right stop lights are each run through a different electrical contact inside the switch. My bet is one is bad
1993 Ford Ranger Tail lights not working?
There is the chance that the light switch is bad, do the running lights work on the front? If not suspect the switch. These can be a trick to remove, it you look there is a button on the part that goes closest to the dash, you depress this and the knob will be able to be pulled out allowing the switch to be replaced.
How much weight can a Ford ranger haul/tow?
Well I am looking at buying a milling machine that weighs probably between 1800 and 2300lbs, I'm just not sure how to get it home. My dad has a 94 super cab ranger 4x4 with the 4.0 auto. I think thats too much weight for it to haul but my dad don't think so. I can get a hold of a car trailer that will hold it. It does have a receiver hitch on it, not sure if its a factory or not. I would say the machine and trailer would be a total weight of 3500lbs maybe a little more or less. So will my dads ranger haul this machine haul this machine? Will it tow it? thanks
2000 Ford Ranger Truck Check Engine light?
in my experience, ive seen most ford trucks have 3 main reasons the check engine light comes on. 1. gas cap is loose or the rubber seal on it is bad. 2. O2 sensors either picked something up or are going bad. 3. the EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) valve is bad. ive seen more ford trucks have EGR valve problems than most any other vehicle. your local auto parts store should be able to read the code for you and tell you why the light is on. the check engine light comes on for either an emissions issue or in extreme cases the transmission. another alternative is to disconnect your battery for about 5 minutes. this will clear all the information from the cars computer. the light will go out. if it stays out, then it was just a one-time reading and all is well now. but if it comes back on, then it needs to be checked out because something is definitely going on
Why is my Ford Ranger randomly beeping?
I bought this used 2000 Ford Ranger almost 2 years ago, its been reliable no issues, all the lights on the dash work but sometimes it randomly beeps while driving usually soon after starting it up Its always beeps after the ignition turns on and show all the basic indicator lights like it always has, but now its beeping it at random times and there's no indicator lights coming on on the dash, I tried looking this up online but no help at all, I tried calling the Ford dealership technical line for help but they want me to bring the car and pay for diagnostics and I ain't got the money for that. From what I can tell there's no loss of gas mileage, no engine problems, no nothing out of the ordinary except the random beeping. I was wondering if anyone can help me pinpoint the problem
How do I fix my Ford Ranger’s low beam lights which are not working after I removed the battery?
The short answer is “I don’t know”. However, there are a few suggestions. Are we to assume that the lights were working before the battery was removed, and do not work since the battery was re-installed or replaced? And the other implication is that all other electrical devices which previously worked are again functioning?The simplest guess would be that some wire(s) to the lights got accidentally severed or unplugged when touched while removing the battery. Also possible that you have a weak ground connection, although not too likely if the hi-beams are OK. The wires should be located and checked. Faulty switch on the stalk? Find the correct wires and check for voltage, if any.We are not told about the age or history of the vehicle. If it is old and high mileage, the wiring may give way because of deterioration or slight voltage spike. One time, my previous car did some weird stuff like the windshield wipers went on when the headlights were lit, but the washer would not. Luckily not too far from home. Problem was solved, bad ground, burnt wiring, but still tricky.
My ford ranger's dome light stays on after the door is shut. What could be the problem?
My friend, Ignore all other answers. I can tell you exactly what the problem is because it is a very common problem. It is the "door ajar" switch. both doors has this little tiny switch, about the size of your pinky finger and has a female plug on it. It is located on the door latch mechanism. They are so common on going bad that I have stopped counting how many I have replaced. They cost about 10 bucks and it is a "dealer only" part. They can be replaced without removing the door latch mechanism, but it isnt easy. If you are able to remove the door latch mechanism, it will make it alot easier. You have to access the door lock mechanism by removing the interior trim panel. unplug the wire, and then "twist" the old switch out. put in the new one with a "twist" then plug in the wiring. I suggest you go ahead and replace both of them (one on each door latch) This part has been installed in the Ford Ranger's back to at least 1995 year model. I can tell you that is definitely your problem.
Why does my check engine light come on after getting gas?
As many have mentioned, it's not simple to answer without more information. There are a number of emmisions fault codes that can occur when fueling for a variety of reasons. Heres a few-Various leak codes. The fuel tank isn't just a can with a pipe in from the filler neck and a pipe out to the fuel line to the motor. There is also also ventilation system that corrects for tank pressure changes allowing air to enter when needed while keeping fuel vapor from escaping, and can pull that fuel vapor into the intake system of the engine.The most common leak issue is a loose or misplaced filler cap that causes a major leak code. Next is a failed seal on the fuel filler cap causing a minor lack code. After that you have the charcoal canister shutoff valve sticking open due to a mechanical failure or due to debris from the charcoal canister caused by impact, consistent over filling, or age. Next would be the purge valve sticking open or closed. Finally hard system leaks such as a cracked hose or seal at the level sensor assembly.Overfilling can affect the charcoal canister by degrading the charcoal filter and causing the valve to stick. This system was only designed for vapor and not liquid fuel.As the fuel tank is semi flexible, the weight of the fuel will normally distort the tank and allow for some leaks due to dried or failed seals to be fuel level dependent.Finally there are the weird ones… found a low-jack transmitter installation gone awry. The installer screwed the mount through the floor under the seat into the fuel tank. Once he realized fuel was leaking on the ground he pulled the screw out, out some sealant on it and screwed it back in the hole. The customer only got a minor leak code when they had a full tank and the weight pulled the tank down off the screw.Found couple plastic tanks cracked at a seam. Also found issues due to distortion and swelling of the plastic tank from E85 and MTBE. There were a few metal tanks with braised hose junctions that separated. One tank actually collapsed and crushed due to a stuck shutoff valve and a bad sensor.Good luck.