My truck's heater blows cold air when at idle...?
If this is a new problem, it could be low coolant, core/hose damage, or gunk build up from bad anti-freeze. First, check your coolant to see if it has old oil in it, a VERY serious problem! If it has whitish, gunky build-up, you may have a bad gasket it the engine. If the coolant looks OK, it may be an old water pump. Both can be checked fairly cheaply at a regular automotive shop. Most oil change places can do it too. Old hoses can cause this too, check them by squeezing the larger water hoses. If they don't rebound after being squeezed, or if they are brittle and break, you found a problem. A disentigrating hose can clog your hot water flow. Crappy anti-freeze can gunk up, and the system may need to be flushed. If you've never had the coolant system flushed in ten years of ownership, it needs it. If this happens every winter, it may just be your winter driving habits. Trucks tend to have larger grills than cars, and they get more air flow under the hood. This keeps your engine from heating up quickly. Some northern truck drivers have zippered grill covers on their trucks. They adjust the air flow until the engine temp stays where they want it. (Assuming you drive in a cold climate) Semi trucks have air brakes, and water freezing in those lines can be dangerous. One tip, turn the heat level all the way up, but put the fan at minimum. People that idle their vehicle to melt snow/ice/frost keep the engine cool by running the fan too high, then let out the tiny amount of heat when they open the doors to get in and out. Keeping the fan low helps the engine build heat faster, instead of using the heater to cool the engine by blasting the coil with cold air! In Germany, people would put a plastic water/oil jug in front of the radiator just behind the grill, it blocked the cold air from cooling the radiator too much, and they had spare coolant/oil. Plastic/cardboard deflectors were common too, but it got down to -40 below farenhite at times, it could cause a day-time problem of over heating if your daytime temps get up to 60.
Will it cause problems with my car if I cut off the catalytic converter and put a straight pipe in its place?
It will add performance but hurt fuel economy and your ability to pass emissions.The CAT is a great invention, but it adds an obstruction to the exhaust. If you remove obstructions you will realize some performance benefit (could be major or minor depending on the car, probably only major if large powerful engine to start).The problem is your car (if it’s less than 20 years old) uses inputs from the oxygen sensors to modify the air fuel mix. There is an oxygen sensor before the CAT and one after the CAT to measure how good of a job it is doing. If you remove the CAT you will get an error code (check engine light). On most cars this means your engine will probably not run as good (certainly not as efficiently) because without those inputs from the oxygen sensor it won’t dynamically modify the air fuel mix and the spark timing, it will just run off of presets as if the car is still warming up (open loop vs closed loop).The error code will also prevent you from passing emissions (which most states require) and the lack of a CAT will be noticed by most emissions testing facilities that use cameras nowadays to make sure it has not been removed.Most people ask this kind of question to bypass emissions (rather than to improve performance). If your goal is to bypass emissions, it won’t work. CATs are expensive because they are made of platinum and palladium and a few other expensive materials. It is illegal to sell a used catalytic converter but some people do it anyway.If you’re asking for performance modification reasons, your best bet is to buy a less restrictive performance exhaust system that has a CAT and spots for the oxygen sensors.
Tube amp problem 32 v crate?
Doesn't sound like your amp is the problem. If the issue only occurs when you have the bridge pickup selected, the issue is probably with your guitar rather than the amp. The best way to find out is to plug a different guitar into your rig and see if the same thing happens. If you don't have access to another guitar, take your amp to a music store and plug a guitar into it there. Most stores will let you try things out. If you have to, fib a little and tell them that you are looking for a new guitar and want to see how it sounds on your own setup. It is also possible something is wrong with your cord. If you had blown a tube in the amp, it is very likely the amp would not work at all, so the amp probably isn't the culprit here.
What would cause my car to accelerate slowly when I press down on the gas?
Assuming that’s the only abnormal symptom and that the symptom appeared suddenly instead of gradually dropping acceleration over a long time, and assuming that there are no other obvious problems like oil leaks or unusual smoke from the exhaust, it’s most likely your engine not operating properly.Keep in mind the 3 things your engine needs in each of the cylinders to work:airfuelsparkSo, I would troubleshoot in this order (easiest/cheapest fix first).check air intake and make sure there are no obstructions.While you’re there check that your air filter is clean.Check your engine, transmission and differential oil levels. Top them up if necessary. Change them if they’re dirty or due for a change.Check all fuses.Check that fuel filter is clean.Check that spark plugs are working. (there are tutorials on the web on how to do this). if there’s a fault, it could be the plugs, cables, dirty distributor, faulty ignition coil.Check fuel pumps are working and the in-tank fuel filters are clean.Check fuel injectors are working.Check throttle body is clean, unobstructed and the butterfly flap is moving smoothly and freely.**NOTE** In the past, whenever I’ve encountered this problem it’s always been a faulty spark plug. one cylinder was not firing and hence the loss of power.If it’s not any of the above, and you have an EFI engine, it could be the maf sensor or the engine management computer or software. These can be much more expensive to fix and need specialist tools.
Anyone else think Dodge trucks are the biggest ugliest pieces of garbage money can buy?
I own a 2004 Ford diesel and havent had any problems with it. But most people I know just think the Dodge is the greatest thing but 95% have had major mechecial problems in there 1st year. I wont even start with people that own dodges that are at least 1998-2004 models gas or diesel. The engines seem ok but its the rest of the crap dodge has that sucks. And yet with all the problems they still cant admit they are crap but continue to throw money into the. WHY THE LOVE FOR DODGE? THEY SUCK!!!
My transmission is broke again!!!?
When it first broke downI took it to AAMCO. They put a new transmission in. I took it home and everything was fine, two days later it was accelerating funny, so I took it back to AAMCO, they put another new transmission in and for about two weeks it drove good and then it broke down on me on the freeway(it didn't want to accelerate and the check transmission light came on ), once again this was a transmission problem. Has anyone out there seen this happen before? (Repeated transmission Problems after it has been fixed) Does anyone have any insight on this? Does this mean I have a lemon?
Help with my car AC please?
Hey everyone, I ve got a question about my air conditioning in my 2001 Durango SLT, 4.7L RWD. It never seems to be blowing as cold as it should, even though I have a brand new compressor and it s full of R134a (so far s I know). I don t believe it s my receiver-drier or accumulator, I don t have the associated smell. It s not the blower motor either. We checked the blend doors inside the dash, they seem to be working properly. It just never gets very cool during these hot summer days in Florida. It blows semi-cool in the mornings and evenings, and it s certainly cold in the winter, but I m roasting in there during the daytime. It should be much colder than it is. Oh, and I m only getting hot air out of the front passenger side vents no matter what I do with the controls. What could be the problem here? The pressures were all fine when we filled up the freon, and the blend doors appeared to be working properly when we took the dash apart.
My brake lights don't work, but my tail lights do. What should I do?
Check the brake light fuse in fuse box that could be blown, and also check to see if the brake light switch is bad, it should be located under the dash and the plunger of the switch should be touching the brake pedal arm. Also check, if they are on the same bulb, that the combination brake light, and taillight bulbs are in working order, or if separate bulbs, that the brake light bulbs are not blown out.If all of those components are in working order, and the brake lights still do not operate, then all of the wiring from the fuse box to the brake light switch, to the brake lights and to the bulb sockets will need to be checked for broken wires, and loose, or corroded connections at any of the above mentioned components.