Is it dangerous (a fire hazard) to block heating vents with cardboard?
Cardboard is flamable therefore anything that will increase it's temperature past 451 degrees F will cause it to ignite< depending on how dried out it is. I am assuming this is a conventional forced air heating system. So I would say that if you can determine if the temperature does not exceed this at the vent (which is highly unlikely) you can reassure yourself and be more comfortable with it. I would have to add that a better solution is to get a register vent that can be closed. Usually you can find the correct size at a home improvement store. If not, it would be good to check on the cardboard periodically to make sure it doesn't get so dry that the flash point lowers, but again, 451 F is very hot. Make sure you do not cover any return vents, they are generally higher and larger. Never put anything close to open flame or exhaust with open flames, like flue pipes. Hope this helps.
How do I know if my radiator is "blocked" (not circulating coolant)?
First make sure your thermostat is working, that is a much more common problem than a radiator being blocked.If you're sure your thermostat is working (either by carefully feeling the coolant hose coming out of it to confirm it is hot or going so far as to remove it completely as a test if it's easily accessible), then carefully see if the hose leaving the radiator is warm.If your radiator is partially blocked and causing coolant to go through it more slowly than it should, the symptoms should be variable with outside temperature and vehicle speed (whereas with a thermostat it should be pretty much the same under all conditions). For example, it will be hotter sitting in traffic than at highway speed. What is more common than an internally blocked radiator (though of course that does happen) is an externally blocked radiator where road debris and dried bugs are preventing air from passing through it and hampering its ability to cool things down. Visually inspect both the front and the back. If dirty, ou can literally take a garden hose to it and should notice a differnece immediately (if it is your problem). Even if it is not visibly dirty, make sure the air from the fan is passing through it to the engine side. And while we're on the topic of fans, make sure yours is working. That's also a much more common problem than an internally blocked radiator.Again, seriously, be careful, the components will be hot.
Central air intake vents? Is it harmful to place furniture over them?
insufficient return air can be very detrimental. The goal should be not effectively reduce the opening size. So, if the return air opening is 6 x 24, that's a total of 144 square inches. Your furniture should be high enough so that the area directly over the return air opening will provide at least 144" (in the sum of all four sides). If it's a sofa, no matter how large, that sits above the return air opening 3", here's the deal: 24+24+6+6= 60" x 3 = 180" of open space around return air. Now, if the return air opening is against an outside wall and the sofa was pressed against the wall, you have to take on 24" dimension out of the math: 24+6+6=36 x 3 = 108" of open area. This may seem like a complex way to answer a simple question, but this is applied in industry all the time and is especially important if you're dealing with forced air heat.
Small engine is blowing oil from breather tube, 12 1/2 horse Briggs, OHV.?
There can be a couple causes of this... I finally won my battle with the same problem today. Probable causes are: 1. Excessive blowby - cause maybe by stuck/broken piston rings, or more likely head gasket (they tend to blow out right between the cylinder and the pushrod area) 2. Faulty crankcase breather (like a PCV valve on a car, the thing bolted to the motor that has the rubber hose going to the air breather) In my situation, with the air filter removed, I had a fountain of oil shooting out the air breather a foot or two high... removing the cylinder head reveled nothing obvious - the gasket looked like I just installed it, but I did notice some signs of leakage from the exhaust valve seal, and that was it. I had previously taken the crankcase breather off and soaked it in mineral spirits and blew it out with compressed air; did these, same thing. Talking to a mechanic, discovered that these motors simply DO have enough blowby to shoot the oil out like that if the crank breather is worn out... replaced it.... WAY better. Although, oil DID start to blow out, but not as quick or as much. I have a feeling I had a stuck ring a bit too, as a few starts and runs until it did it, and it is fine now. Also be sure to smell the oil and ensure that it isn't contaminated with gas badly, as that could contribute too. Long story short: buy the crank breather and replace it - it's about $15 I think, and is very likely the problem, and even if it isn't, likely will be sometime soon anyway. Hope this helps.
What alternative heat in my mobile home?
Space heaters run off electricity and usually cost more to operatge than your electirc furnace. Running a gas stove for a heat source is not a good idea as you will have fumes and you dont want that with small childfren. Check the doors and windows for air leaks. If so, you can insulate the windows with a 'plastic storm' window material (sold in hardware stores) that can be cut to fit and installled easily. Put throw rugs around the bottom of each door to block air flow. Skirting around your trailer will also help. Many towns offer 'assistance' to families with income issues due to employment etc. Some utility companies also have extended payment options. Do some investigating.
What happens when you don't clean the lint filter?
The dryer has to run a lot longer to get clothes dry due to not being able to expel the damp hot air. It runs hotter, due to having to run longer. The built up lint is a fire hazard due to the overheated air and the overheated motor. It can cause a house fire - and probably will if you leave the filter blocked long enough. It doesn't matter if it is an electric dryer or a gas dryer - you'll have a fire hazard in the laundry area.Not cleaning the air vent that comes out of the back of the dryer to let the hot damp air and some bits of lint that manage to get through the dryer and build up in the dryer vent can and will eventually cause a second fire hazard. I've also heard of the dryer vent covers getting damaged and animals (birds or something of similar size) getting into the vent and building a nest - which will also block the vent, cause overheating, and increase the possibility of a fire due to the lint catching fire from the heat.But as long as you check the lint filter after every load and clean it "as needed" (I've had new towels clog the filter half way through the drying cycle and older clothes that left it so close to clean that I had to use a damp paper towel to find any lint on it) - then check the dryer vent "about once a year", then you should be okay. It won't hurt to pull it out & sweep & mop behind the washer & dryer once in a while, though.Lint particles can be tiny...but they build up.
Why do you get a sore throat if you leave the heater on all night?
What happens is that your throat gets dry and sore.Depends on what type of heater you have. If it is ducted heating belching out hot/warm dry air then you surely will end up with a dry throat, tendency to cough and eventually may lead to inflammation.Hydronic heating is by far the best but more expensive and more difficult to install.Humidifyers may be an option. Also you can have a glass of water at your bedside so you can sip some water at night when you feel your throat is dry.Do you sleep with your mouth open? are you a mouth breather? That may be one of the reason why your throat gets dry too.