Is it natural for an old diesel vehicle to blow black smoke on acceleration? Or is this a sign of a worn engine?
This is soot. It occurs when too much fuel is injected into the combustion chamber for it to burn completely.In older engines, the fuel system will make assumptions about how well the engine is breathing and the maximum injection volume will be tuned accordingly. If the engine has trouble breathing, e.g. due to a clogged air filter, the assumption will be wrong.Modern engines have control units that actively measure air mass and make appropriate adjustments.
Why is there turbo lag in diesel engines?
Turbolag in turbocharged engines is an inevitability; it is not restricted to diesel engines only. In a turbocharged diesel engine, COMPRESSSED AIR gushes in through the inlet valves; the ECU makes more fuel squirt through the nozzels or the injectors, atomized fuel droplets mix with air; and combustion eventually begins which leads to drastic shooting up of pressure inside the combustion chamber, which pushes the piston making the crankshaft rotate, and through a transmission system the power is transmitted to the propeller shaft, from there on communicated to the axels and then finally to the wheels.The initial shortage of compressed air when you floor the accelerator is the primary reason for turbo lag.A turbo charger is a turbine and a compressor mounted on the same shaft, wherein the kinetic energy of the exhaust products of the combustion is utilized to run the turbine, which rotates the compressor mounted on the same shaft. The filtered air at atmospheric pressure is compressed by the compressor, then sent to a radiator (heat exchanger/intercooler). Finally the compressed air ends up inside the combustion chamber and the same series of processes as discussed earlier occur. When the throttle is wide open, maximum air flows through the inlet manifold, but the turbine and compressor assembly initially is not running fast enough to cope up with the changing demands. Essentially there is some time spent in the event of the turbine-compressor assembly geting up to speed. This is felt as a hiccup or hesitation in vehicle acceleration. This time lag/hiccup/hesitation is referred to as turbo lag.Turbo lag is a phenomenon associated with turbo charged engines, be it petrol or diesel. The reason we don't hear about turbo lag in petrol engines here in India is because there aren't many manufacturers that install these in their petrol cars. Amongst the few are Volkswagen and Skoda that put turbo petrol engines that go by the TSI batch in some of their petrol cars.Turbocharging small capacity petrols is a lot more challenging than similar capacity diesels. Turbo speeds are faster and the temperature is significantly higher, about 8-10 times that of a diesel engine. That makes material selection and reliability requirements much harsher. It does give the engine a new dimention.
Black Smoke in Volvo 740 Turbo?
I have a 1988 Volvo 740 turbo that has recently begun spewing black smoke. White smoke I understand happens when the turbo begins to go. Black smoke I understand to be oil. I just drove the thing and it does do the white smoke thing. Drives consistent with the turbo going out as in it looses power when the turbo meter goes into yellow/active. If I keep it out of the yellow/active range there is less smoke and it just drives like a 4-cyl. Any ideas about the black smoke? Drives fine otherwise...my own hunch is that it spews black smoke because it doesn't like how my sweetheart drives it. Her history is that she's driven numerous other cars into death.
Can you make a 'turbo' out of a shopvac/leafblower? (take 2)?
This has been done by many before. It is technically an electronic supercharger, not a turbo, but essentially the same thing. Yes it does help to force air into the engine, but there is a limit to the volume of air the fan can provide. At a certain point, the engine will require more air than the fan can produce. An old N/A Eagle Talon I used to have that had one on it when I bought the car would top out at about 115 mph with the charger on, ~ 130 after switching it off. It basically seemed to hit a resistance in the power band after about 5800 RPM with the blower on. You also need to remember to switch it off when you let off the throttle. But typically, you should feel a SLIGHT but noticeable increase in power if you switch it on while accelerating. The ideal setup would be to create system that would control the fan and switch it off when you reach a specific RPM and when off the throttle. It would be way easier to use a high volume 12v fan, like from a computer. I suppose you could use the electric leaf blower or shop vac motor and simply use a power inverter for the 110v needed. It just seems that either of those would be rather large and bulky and hard to mount and plum. As for the A/F ratio, it really depends on the vehicle. As long as you still utilize the air meter, be it a Mass Airflow Sensor or Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor, the small amount of extra air your introducing should be detected by the ECM and therefore properly compensated for. If you can reprogram the fuel maps (not sure how you could easily do this without a piggyback or standalone fuel management system) I'm not sure how you would map that, being that the blower won't be on all the time. Unless you could again create a separate controller for the blower, that would make it vary it's output with RPM. Turbos and supers are on-demand boost devices, as they are both driven by the engines crankshaft or exhaust flow. As RPM increases, output boost pressure is also increased, to a certain amount. Basically, I believe this modification is only limited by your engineering capabilities, resources, and imagination. Good luck and happy modding! :)
Nissan cabstar diesel 3.0 lt turbo p1241 p1248 codes what do they mean starts perfect lacking power year 2002?
The charger doesn't work well in low revolution of the engine. "Can you type your sentence properly?!"
What are the symptoms of a bad turbo in a detroit diesel engine?
How much time do you have the list of items could go on and on. You didn't say what year you have but if it is a 2010 big block there are things that the turbo does like drive a torque convert that drives a gear on the rear of the engine to give you about 50 more horse, that shaft break and you would notice a lose of power I'd say. If it is one of the older models you would most likely see shaft breakage which could lead to a run away engine using the motor oil as fuel until it runs out of oil and you don't want to know the damage that could cause. The bad part of that is you would not be able to shut the engine off because it would be running on motor oil until it ran out. On the other end of that you could loose a seal and dump all the oil in the pan out the exhaust side, you would most likely notice that because of the clouds of smoke and no power before the engine would blow for lack of oil. On the light side you could just loose the bearings slowly and it would put oil in the boost hose causing blue smoke. Of coarse when the bearings go the fins hit the sides of the housing and start sending little pieces of metal into the intake system which acts like sand when it gets into the combustion chamber. Do you want me to continue?
I have a chevy turbo 350 trans can anyone tell me y it will not shift into 2nd and drive?
Not shifting is caused by different things. First check your fluid level. Car idleing, oil warm should show full. Using a white paper towel to wipe the dip stick...what color is left on the towel? If you see red around the edges bleeding away from the center of the area on the towel...thats normal....tell me whats in the center...is it light gray...dark grey...more black than grey etc. Does it smell burned? Your nose can tell...honestly. When was the last time you, or anyone you know that owned the car..changed the transmission oil and filter? An old filter, and a very dark color to the oil can mean the trans had gone out. Losing its clutch packs, by slipping to the point that they heat up (burnout) and will not lockup and hold. You will feel it shift maybe to one gear, but go into neutral...not neutral really...it is slipping so bad you feel it is in neutral. There was a young friend of my sons that was driving across a field...hit a clump of brush and as he got back on the road, the Turbo 350 would not shift right. When they came home he ask me what it could be...I gave him my flashlight , ask him to look under from passenger side, and see if there was a round gold or silver , small cannister sticking out of the side of the transmission , about where the oil pan stopped, but just above it. He said yes there was one there,,,I told him it has a two inch rubber line attached to the nipple on the cannister and it mates to a steel line coming down from the back of the engine...No it is just there with no line attached. What was missing was the vacume line that mates to the modulator..and helps the transmission apply pressure so it shifts right. He found it dangling near the starter...he attached it, and I had him use two plastic tie wraps to hold it in position,next to the transmission dipstick tube. It really did shift better with the vacume line attached...without it it slipped going from first gear to second real bad. If he had tried to drive it without it attached, the transmission would have burned out the clutch packs in 3 or 4 hours or less. Check your vacume line. Yell back here and let me know what you see or find.