TRENDING NEWS

POPULAR NEWS

How Long Does It Take Hobby Lobby Air Dry Clay To Completely Harden

I m at hobby lobby looking at clay.?

I need some clay for sculpting a mask to make a mold from it. What clay is best for that? I see Air Dry Clay, Plastalina Clay, and what is said to be paper clay. Which should I use? I ll be going to the thrift store and coming back so please answer soon. I have to come back to the clay and will cover it each time with plastic wrap, so keep that in mind.

Will air dry clay melt after it is hardened?

I want to make my own candle holders and I don't have a kiln...So I was thinking of using just the cheaper air dry clay and sculpt what ever I wanted for it...And then after it dries, Eithr just pour wax directly in the clay sculpture or Add a little glass cup in the middle of it and put a candle inside of that. Any information would be great! Thank you!

Which modeling clay should I use to make miniature charms?

Okay, I'm going to make one miniature charm for my friend by this coming Monday. This is will be my first time doing it, so, I need to know roughly what kind of modeling clay will be suitable for this project. I need the end product to last forever (assuming that proper care is taken), and I might glaze it a little. I've heard of polymer clay before, but I don't know where to get it in Klang, Malaysia.

I'm also considering homemade modeling clay though. Also, please include the recipe and instructions to make the homemade clay.

Thanks in advance. ^^

Can Liquid polymer clay (TLS) air dry or does it have to be bakes to dry?

All liquid polymer clays, including the Sculpey brand named Translucent Liquid Sculpey, must be heated to harden.
(And btw, solid polymer clays and liqiud polymer clays will never "dry" because they're not water-based so no water in them to evaporate off...they're oil-based so must be heated to "cure" and harden.)

So you wouldn't use liquid polymer clay on air-dry clay for its adhesive properties since it bonds to polymer clay and isn't tacky while liquid--plus, you'd have to heat it after air-dry clay dries, although it would probably be okay in the oven at that low a temperature for a short time.
If you want to use liquid polymer clay on air-dry clay for other reasons, e.g., as a clear coating on the clay or on something else you've put on the clay, you could, I guess, though it might take longer heat or more heat which might not be good for the air-dry clay.
In general though, liquid polymer clay isn't used on air-dry clay.

You can read all about liquid polymer clay--brands, uses, hardening, etc-- on this page at my polymer clay site if you're interested:
http://glassattic.com/polymer/LiquidScul...

Btw, liquid polymer clays (and solid polymer clays too) will *not* leave a crumbly material behind if not hardened, as mentioned by the previous answerer.
Liquid polymer clays are often left open in fact (sometimes in a separate container) for a long time with brushes/etc sitting in them so the brush won't need to be cleaned; all that will happen over time is that they may thicken a bit.
Solid polymer clay will just get firmer the longer it sits as long as it's not leaching out some of its oily ingredients by being in contact with something porous over time, and not being exposed to too much heat or UV light.
(I have loads of solid polymer clay and even liquid polymer clay that's been sitting around for many years and none of it has become crumbly---well a bit of it, long ago, before I understood that waxed paper is in fact porous over time!)
.

How well does liquitex paint work with polymer clay sculptures?

Liquitex brand has various lines of acrylic paint. The "basics" ones are probably the "student" quality, but they also carry higher-quality, thicker and more opaque "artists' quality paints.

You can use either type on hardened polymer clay, but obviously one will be more opaque and thick than the other so have better coverage more quickly.
You don't say if you're just using washes on otherwise flesh colored clay though, or painting over the clay and doing all the color yourself.

(Any acrylics will be "okay" to use on polymer clay though --well, except a few of the cheapie "craft" quality acrylics may bleed into the clay over time, especially some of the reds).

You can read about the various kinds of paint that can and shouldn't be used on polymer clay, proper preparation for painting, using paints on faces/etc and as washes, etc, on these pages at my site:
http://glassattic.com/polymer/paints.htm
http://glassattic.com/polymer/heads_mask...
> Skin >> Adding Color
and perhaps: http://glassattic.com/polymer/letters_in...
> Inks for Surface Efffects >> Alcohol Inks

Why are you sanding polymer clay sculpts? Will you be buffing afterward (and with what?), etc?

.

Transferring images into dried clay?

You could use carbon paper under the picture and transfer it that way. Or use a pencil to trace the drawing and once you have t traced take the side of the pencil and make a wide pencil marks close together so that when you trace over the drawing that pencil mark transfers to the clay. Hope this make sense

Good luck

How well does moldable plastic work?

Istamorph appears to be a new(?) brand of the thermoplastic plastic called "polycaprolactone."
As far as I know, those kinds of plastics are not primarily used as adhesives and wouldn't be adhesive once cool though could hold things together just with a close mechanical bond.

You can make/model simple shapes with that kind of plastic (quickly) while it's still warm, or you can cast it in a mold while still warm then let cool.
When just modeling shapes though it won't be nearly as shapable nor capable of fine detail as another plastic like polymer clay** (which is a thermosetting plastic and is clay-like till hardened with heating, holding very fine detail), or as clear liquid resins used in molds, etc.
(I have seen some hardened clay objects online that have been covered with a sheet of warm plastic like Instamorph though which would create finer detail, and some people have gotten good at continually rewarming and shaping little objects.)

You can read more about that kind of material in my previous answers here, if you're interested:
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?... (click on the links for examples)
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index;...
...plus more info and pics here:
https://www.google.com/images?q=Polymorp...
https://www.google.com/search?q=Instamorph
https://www.google.com/images?q=Instamorph
https://www.google.com/search?q=Polycaprolactone
https://www.google.com/images?q=Polycaprolactone
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polycaprolactone
.

Can you mix paint "into" white clay to make it a color, and if so, what kind would be safe to bake?

I'm making an Abby Cadabby figurine for my daughters first birthday cake. I need some bright pink and purple clay, but can't find any. I need to color it but I want to make sure that the paint I use will hold up and keep its color when I put the figurine in the oven.

Would model magic dry out even if it's unopened?

If there is no leakage at all and the container is completely air-tight, I assume it would stay reasonably soft for a very long time. I don't know what the effects of heat would be though in beginning to harden it even without leakage.

Air-dry clays (like Model Magic, etc) *dry* to harden, which means they lose all their water (evaporate it off). So if air-dry clays are kept sealed air-tight (with little air in the container too), the water in the clay has no place to evaporate to so the clay can't harden.

You should be able to squeeze the bag to see if it's still soft now though.
After opening the clay, be sure to squeeze the air out of the bag and wrap the bag tighly around the clay, and even put it in another air-tight container (thick zip top bag, Tupperware, etc). Even plastic bags can get tiny air holes over time, etc, but it will usually take a long time. The less amount of time air-dry clay is exposed to air, the longer it will stay soft.**

**That's one reason a lot of people interested in clays will use a "polymer" clay instead of an air-dry clay. Polymer clays (Premo, Fimo, Kato Polyclay, Cernit, Sculpey) are oil-based clays so contain no water to evaporate out... those kinds of clays must be hardened by heating (usually in a home oven).

HTH,

Diane B.

TRENDING NEWS