Can I put a V6 engine into a 4-cylinder car?
If the car was originally delivered with both types of engines, it might not even be very hard.There are some special considerations though. The first generation of Saab 9–5 was delivered with three choices of engine (I’m leaving out the diesel engines, they shouldn’t be in cars anyway), a 2.0t I4, a 2.3t I4, and a 3.0t V6. The 3.0t was only delivered with an automatic transmission, while the smaller engines were delivered with both types. Converting a 9–5 2.0 manual to a 3.0 automatic is probably going to be more work than converting a 2.0 automatic to 3.0 automatic.Then, on the other hand, you might achieve your goals in much easier ways than complete engine swaps, depending on what those goals are. As original, the 2.0t has 150 hp and 240 Nm, while the 3.0t has 200 hp and 310 Nm. If the goal is to increase power and torque, a simple software upgrade to the 2.0t will give you 210 hp and 320 Nm, meaning you get more power and torque than the 3.0t, while retaining the better fuel economy of the 2.0t. Of course, the 3.0t could also be software upgraded, but it is a very strange engine that is very hard to get much extra power from, so you’ll probably increase the power only from 200 to 220 hp. If you want more power than a simple software upgrade will give the 2.0t, changing to a bigger turbo and more open exhaust can make that little engine yield much more power than the weird 3.0t could ever hope for. Strangely, the 2.3t was sold completely original in a version with 260 hp and 350 Nm, noticeably more than the original 3.0t, so the Saab 9–5 was faster with the strongest type of original 4-cylinder engine than it was with the V6.However, if your goal is smoothness rather than outright power, the V6 would probably win every time.
How do I solve a cylinder 3 misfire?
Misfires are flagged due to lack of contribution from that cylinder. Lack of contribution means that that cylinder is not producing adequate combustion or no combustion at all.Misfires are caused by lack or weak spark due to faulty plugs, coils , coil wires, distributor caps ( if so equipped).Or, fuel issues, no fuel or too much fuel or too much air ( vacuum leak). Fuel related culprits could be injectors, clogged or not pulsing due to internal failure or drivers in the PCM or wiring to injectors.More serious issues are engine internals such as valves not sealing. Usually exhaust valves. Or worn cam lobes, or broken valve springs.So, eliminate the easy things first. Verify spark and measure strength of spark with a cheap spark tester. You should have a minimum of 30 KV jumping the gap. Swap plugs and or coils to see if the misfire travels to another cylinder.Eliminate fuel and vacuum leaks issues with a propane test. Carefully introduce propane to the affected cylinder.
What are the effects of driving a car with a misfiring cylinder?
OK. I am a gear head who loves working on cars and has done so since the 1960’s.If a cylinder is misfiring because of an ignition problem you will, in the short term, just experience a loss of power increase your fuel consumption. In the longer term, continuing to drive it that way could destroy a coil and cost you more money.If, however, the misfire is caused by an injector problem, you could seriously damage your engine. Running that cylinder too lean will cause it to overheat and potentially damage the valve or the piston. If it is running excessively rich the unburned fuel could be washing the lubrication off of the cylinder walls leading to severe wear. In either case, repairing the damage will be expensive.NEVER drive a car that has a problem. NEVER drive a car in which the Check Engine light is on. If the Check Engine light begins to flash, SHUT OFF THE ENGINE, NOW! A problem that to you seems small, if not repaired, can cause a lot of damage that will be very expensive to fix.Read your car’s manual. Do exactly what it recommends. Find a mechanic you trust. Doing preventive maintenance will cost you a lot less than repairing the damage caused by neglecting to keep your car serviced.
How many oxygen sensors are on a chrysler 300 2.7 6 cylinder engine?
Starting some were about 1996 all most all V engines were given 4 oxygen sensors. 2 to each bank with one of those in front of the converter and one after it.
Why is my car shaking and the check engine light flashing?
A shaking vehicle AND flashing MIL ("check engine light") sound like the vehicle is misfiring on at least one cylinder. As @Anna Nguyen, @Brendan Sinclair, @Antoun Nabhan and others have said, it could be an ignition related problem. It could also be fuel-related. If one or more fuel injectors are clogged or dead, that would also cause a misfire in the affected cylinder(s). These are relatively cheap/easy things to check and fix.Other causes (which could be more complicated and more expensive) to fix include contaminated fuel, a bent intake or exhaust valve, a broken valve spring, a damaged piston/connecting rod, and on and on.I recommend getting a scan tool and checking the codes which are causing the MIL to light/flash and I also strongly recommend NOT driving the vehicle until the problem is fixed. If you continue to drive the vehicle as is, you will exacerbate the problem. Dumping unburned fuel into the exhaust due to a misfire will overheat and kill your catalytic converter. A more serious problem like a bent valve can eventually cause you to crater your engine (i.e.: completely destroy the engine).
What are some symptoms of a bad idle air control sensor?
Idle air control valves open to allow more air to "leak" into the intake, raising the engine rpms, or close when not needed. When your AC compressor kicks in or power steering is activated as you suddenly turn the steering wheel, the sudden drag on the drive belt will bog down the engine. These systems send a signal to the engine computer telling it they are active and it then signals the IAC valve to open, which increases the engine speed. Without this occurring, the engine could struggle, or die. The IAC valve can cause weird idle issues, mess with throttle functionality or cause the car to die. Sometimes they fail, get stuck or just get all carboned up. Sometimes people have success at cleaning them, but generally it is best to replace them when bad. Idle issues and even problems with the IAC valve may not be due to the IAC valve being bad itself. An idle issue does not mean the IAC valve is bad. It is best to pay close attention to how the vehicle is acting, and then communicate that clearly and as completely as possible to your mechanic. Intermittent problems can be very hard to diagnose. Details will help. Knowing more about the vehicle in question and its symptoms (in detail) will also help in understanding more about what it is doing.
Will exhaust leaks at manifold gaskets cause the engine to misfire?
I'm going to address the issue that has so far been overlooked. Most gasoline passenger and light duty trucks on the road today utilize electronically controlled fuel injection. Exhaust manifold leaks have the effect of “fooling” the oxygen sensor. Exhaust gas travels in pulses with high and low pressure zones. Exhaust gas leaks out during the high pressure event. Outside air is drawn INTO the leaking area during the low pressure event. The result is an oxygen sensor that reports a lean condition. (Too much air in relation to fuel). The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) will then increase fuel delivery to compensate. With a leak of sufficient magnitude, the PCM can end up substantially increasing fuel delivery in an attempt to “correct” the perceived lean condition. The engine (or that half of the engine) actually ends up running quite over- rich (Too much fuel in relation to air). Spark plug fouling can result, which in turn may lead to a MISFIRE. If this situation occurred on , for instance, a 98 Ford F150 with a V8, the following may be present. Lean exhaust code and misfire codes set on the bank with the exhaust leak present. The exhaust leak did not cause an immediate misfire. But it is the root cause of the resulting mayhem.
What problems go along with a bad catalytic converter?
A clogged catalytic convertor causes the symptoms of a loss of power when accelerating or going up a hill. This is an often overlooked cause of loss of power, can cause check engine fault codes and lights, and mechanics will often change a few parts unnecessarily , especially if it is only partially plugged. A couple ways I check for plugged cats when a low power complaint is a symptom, and other obvious basic maintenance items have been checked for service is to have someone hold the rpm at about 1800 to 2000 steady. Then check for a good push of exhaust with my hand from behind the tailpipe. A plugged or partially plugged cat typically leaves a hot sickly feeling exhaust flow from the tailpipe. Compare to a known good working car nearby, known to be performing properly and with the same amount of cylinders. That slow , hot sickly flow at 2000 rpm compared to the hard push blowing your hand away of a not clogged cat is a dead giveaway, and I have NEVER misdiagnosed a plugged cat , or made false diagnosis with this method. Another way is watching a vacuum gauge connected to the intake manifold. When revving up, if the exhaust is plugged the gauge reading will climb then begin to slowly drop as the exhaust pressure builds up. Further testing will be needed to verify which part of the exhaust is plugged. Diagnostic by codes is unreliable and until now I had not heard of it. A code p420 only refers to catalyst efficiency. And can be set by faulty o2 sensors. Removing the exhaust and testing for engine power returning to normal works. But the hot sickly flow has been most accurate with my experience, in several cases where shops had missed it, were stumped and called me to come check. They are always embarrassed for missing the simplicity, but need not, as cars and their complicated electronics and even age old problems can lead to loss of power without any immediately obvious cause.
Why won't my Car let me go over 40 mph?
Usually cars these days will let you know when something is wrong with “her” (the vehicle). And usually she will do it with the check engine light. Now if she won’t go over 40mph chances are she’ll let you know by turning on the check engine light and the go in (as mentioned) “limp mode” or “safe mode”. Basically a mode that prevents you from damaging any vital components but still lets you drive it to get her to the nearest mechanic (car doc). This mode will decrease speed and decrease gear shifts normally to second (again as mentioned) but this will also increase fuel as it is a method to prefent you from running to lean on fuel. (One of the sensors to cause limp mode is the mass airflow sensor or MAF sensor - the sensor which tells the computer how much fuel to inject to keep a good air to fuel ratio - if limp mode is activated it won’t know how much fuel to inject to keep a ratio because of the sensor not telling it how much). This will cause your vehicle to be slightly less fuel economic. Other thing is the CAT or catalytic converter which is responsible for removing some of the harmful gases caused by internal combustion engines. If cloged or faulty it will cause the lambda sensor and exhaust oxygen sensor to send a signal to the engine telling something ain’t right also causing her to go in to limp mode. Another reason could be transmission fluid. Automatic transmissions use fancy electronics and oil to determine and select gear. If the oil level is low enough it will cause the transmission to go into safemode te prevent you from damaging it and will prevent you from going into another gear other than second. Symptoms might also be not engaging gear smoothly or not engaging at all.But like the others have said before rather get your vehicle to a mechanic and let him take a look.