How do I bypass power steering pump and completely get rid of it?
What do you mean when you say that the pump can't be repaired or replaced? If it's a matter of not being able to afford to fix it or you can't get the parts, then you are probably going to be without a truck for a while until you can get it fixed properly. While it may technically be possible to do away with the power steering, it is most likely going to be more difficult and more expensive than making repairs (if you want it to be safe at all).Vehicles that have power steering simply aren't designed to be driven without it. You will cause damage to other steering components such as the rack or gearbox. Not only that, but vehicles are geared differently now. The steering on a non powered vehicle was designed to function without hydraulics. Without power, a modern system's steering radius is affected greatly, they literally can't turn as far without power.The heavier the vehicle, the harder it is to steer without power. In particular, I would not attempt to drive any pickup(or larger vehicle) on the road without power steering. There's simply to much risk.There are only two times when I would even consider driving a vehicle with failed power steering:In an emergency. Either I need to get the vehicle home, or I need to get someone to a hospital and have no other options.It's a farm vehicle, the only thing I use it for is moving a few tools around a field.I've had to move two modern vehicles with failed power steering. The first was a Honda Civic that wouldn't run. We dragged it about ten miles with me steering the car. It was really hard to turn at all, and that was with a fairly lightweight car. Afterwards it felt like I'd spent the entire day weightlifting, just from a short drive.The other vehicle was my friend's Dakota pickup. I went out with him to get the truck. The pump had failed and we needed to get it back to his house so that we had space and tools to work with. We got it started, he hopped in to drive, and I followed in my car. I followed him right up until he plowed into a tree on a particularly sharp turn. He simply couldn't make the turn without power steering. He ended up with a tow bill, body shop bill, the repair bill for the pump, and a hospital visit on top. That's why I will never recommend doing away with power steering on a vehicle.
Convincing parents to let me get a project car?
I bought a 1976 Mustang Cobra II about 6 months ago off of Craigslist. It was listed for $6,000, but I got it for $2,000 (not running). The 1974-78 Mustangs were the smallest and lightest of the Mustangs meaning good fuel economy (my built 302 V-8 gets about 20 mpg highway) and good handling. The V-6 should get about 28 or better. It is not McPherson strut suspension (a good thing), but fully independent and it was the first Mustang with front disc brakes and rack & pinion steering (my V-8 has power steering). Mine came from out west (Colorado) so it has almost no rust. The fastback (3 door hatchback) is the best looking and most desirable compared to the Ghia or 2-door coupe, meaning better resale should you ever part with it. I thought the 13 inch wheels looked dorky, so I got on Craigslist and bought a set of 16" alloys and good tires that came off of an Audi Quattro for cheap ($120). It will be a labor of love; I have had to rebuild many things that are not usual, like the instrument housing was deteriorating and I bought a used one off of Ebay. I had to replace the fuel sending unit to make the gas gage work (Ebay was intended for a 1968 Mustang but it worked fine). The V-8 was notorious for overheating, as mine did, so I bought an all aluminium racing racing radiator (Ebay, $205, meant for a 1972 Mustang). Reseal the rear differential. In 1976, the auto manufacturers did not put in overdrive transmissions from the factory. That started a few years later. I bought a 5-speed T-5 out of a 1994 Mustang to replace my 4-speed manual which has no overdrive (Found on Craigslist for $250). Every project is different, but you will learn a lot. You will need a place to work on it (garage? driveway?). If it is outside, cover it up so as to not offend neighbors if you live in such a neighborhood. If the car is a fastback, I say go for it. If not, keep looking and you will find one.
How much would the insurance be on a 1970 Chevrolet Chevelle SS for an 18 year old?
Depends. If you can find one now in perfect shape it would be worth about $80,000.00. So big bucks to insure. Even a shell not running goes for several thousand. Of course while you restored that you don't need insurance. You do need big bucks to restore it. The 454 was joked about as being able to pass everything but a gas station in 1970. The 396 not much different. Why would an 18 year old be asking this question? Unless you have super rich parents who don't care how you spend their money? If you do why would you care about the cost of insurance?
Classic Car as Daily Driver?
Hello everyone, What are people's opinions on having a late 60s to early 70s car as a daily driver. I like alot of the fastback style cars of that era such as a torino, mustang, nova, chevelle. The torino in particular. I found a 71 Torino 500 with the 302 v8 and an automatic tranny. It would be the first car I'd pay for myself and I understand what it would take as far as up keep and the little things that can and will go wrong along the way. What would be the absolutely necessary upgrades to make it a little more modern for and safer for everyday use? Is this a good car to have as a basically everyday driver, like at least 3 or more times a week. My main driving force behind really wanting a classic car is to get it and keep it until I die or it gets wrecked and of course work on it. I've always thought about having a classic car as a daily driver. What do you guys think? -Thanks