How To Set Image Ratio On Canon 1100d

Which DSLR is better, Canon EOS 600D or EOS M?

If its a fight between DSLR vs Mirrorless. Winning party should be function of user and his needs, and not the camera in itself.If you want to go into full fledged pro-photography go ahead with a DSLR blindly. Well not blindly ...Reasons specifically being  1. No viewfinder, in daylight condition sometimes you might miss it.2.  Not enough lenses available.(Here i am talking about all brands in general) although EOS M have adapter as mentioned earlier.3. No serious mirrorless camera is available at the top of the range. Canon/Nikon do not want shoot their DSLR foot with mirrorless.4. The technology is not yet mature to be compared to DSLR. But  entry level DSLRs are comparable. But if you are a casual photographer who have some creative ideas and want to takea great shot in general, i personally think mirrorless are a great buy, reasons being.1. Essentially the same sensor size as that of entry level DSLRs2. Less bulky, this has to be the greatest reason to buy a mirrorless, it is almost stupid to carry around a neck breaking camera around your ....well your neck...!On most of the occasions you do not need a DSLR when you can actually get the same quality shot from mirrorless.in case your interest fades away from photography you may use the camera for all the occasions.Specifically comparing eos m with 600dyou may want to consider 1. slow AF issue of EOS M , after the firmware update it is usable for most conditions. But not comparable to 600d2. No built in flash in EOS M3. Canon is giving away this camera at huge discount, its almost a steal. Just to make up for the goof up with AF.4.Image quality is essentially the same for both the camera.5.Touchscreen is great on EOS M6. And with EOS M2 being launched, more lenses might come into market , just to support the latest brother from canon.

What should I do whether I have Canon 18-55 + 55-250, or just 18-135?

Thanks for the A2A. I'm a Nikon user myself... but since Nikon has a similar combination of lenses I'll try to give some thoughts.First, are you talking about the STM versions or the earlier versions. STM lenses are nice for video because it focuses more smoothly (allowing for focus pull)... but it is worse for stills as it is slower to focus.People getting into dSLR find the 18-135 convenient because it has a large zoom range. The thing is that the 18-135 offers far inferior image quality range in the 18-55 range compared to the 18-55, especially at aperture below F8. The corners are much softer and there is much more distortion as well. Then also the image quality of the 18-135 in the 100-135mm is also pretty bad.So personally, I would take the 18-55 and 55-250mm. Actually I recommend the 17-55 f2.8 even more (I have a friend who has one), but the 18-55 is already a pretty big step up (well it's more the 18-135 is a big step down). However I understand that casual photographers don't like to carry two lenses and aren't good at changing them (with my ThinkTank belt I can change a lens in about 10 seconds).If you are just looking to snap some photos the 18-135 will be sufficient (although at that point I might suggest you just get a smaller/lighter/cheaper bridge camera if you don't really care to much about image quality and are not going to change your lenses as the situation dictates).

If what matters in a camera is mostly the lens, and not the camera body, why should one buy a more expensive DSLR like a Canon 650D as opposed something really cheap, like the T3/1100D?

They both matter, of course. The conventional wisdom of spending more on the glass if you can is simple: lenses really don't change all that much over they years. Decades, maybe. So when you spend money on a lens, you'll have that lens in use for decades, unless you kill it. Digital photography is new enough that there's always something better out there. Canon, Nikon, Sony, Panasonic, Olympus, they all replace their flagship cameras every couple of years, and the consumer models pretty much yearly. That's not a huge jump, year to year, but it's an improvement. A bad sensor with a bad lens gives you a bad photo. So does a great lens with a bad sensor, or a bad lens with a great sensor. Here's the thing: sensors aren't all that bad. Canon's used essentially the same 18Mpixel sensor in EOS Rebel models from the T3i/600D as they have in most of the other top consumer models, the 60D, and the 7D. So yeah, the T3/1100D is a substandard camera, but you don't have to go far to get the same image quality as a pro model. That's not all you get in a camera body, of course, but that and the lens determine the image quality. Other features may determine your ability to get that image captured. The 7D, for example, has two image processing chips, so it was twice as fast with frame rate and other things as the consumer models. The higher end cameras have more focusing points, more light sensing points, so they focus faster, they can work in lower light, etc. They're also more robust. The higher end models are weather sealed, so they're not destroyed when you use them in a rainstorm. They're made of magnesium rather than polycarbonate, so they take abuse better. They have shutters rated for 250,000 or more shots in some cases, rather than the usual 100,000. There are much better settings for a pro -- my 6D doesn't have the "scene" stuff on the mode dial (it's in a menu if you need it), but it's got custom mode directly available there (ironically, the 6D is the only camera I've owned that had a "scene" option worth using.. it has some interesting multi-exposure night modes available in that menu). And most importantly, you look way cooler using a pro model than the same "Rebel" all the Soccer Moms own.

Can one photograph the Milky Way with a Canon EOS 600D? Which lens should be used?

Yes.Camera settings: Manual Mode, F2.8, 10s ISO 3200.Focal length 22mm (33 mm equivalent), using a Tamron 17-50mm F2.812 second interval compiled at 30 fpsManual mode, F2.8, 8s, ISO3200, 50mm (setting for second half of video below) using the nifty 50mm F1.8I would recommend getting a lens that has a max aperture of at least F2.8... There is something called the 500 rule... to avoid the stars from streaking in your photo, your exposure time cannot be longer the 500 divided by your focal length... so no more than 10 secs at 50mm, ~20 seconds at 24mm, etc... so I recommend something between 12-50mm with aperture set between F2 and F4 (focus becomes difficult below F2, and stuff gets darker above F4 without a significant ISO boost). Since you are on a crop sensor... remember to that that into account (20mm = 32mm for Canon 1.6x crop). If you are really into astrophotography... look at the Rokinon 14mm F2.8, very affordable lens that doesn't create comas (the starlights often get distorted into a comma curl many top end lenses). Here is a longer listLenses for AstrophotographyIf you are not as into it... I highly suggest renting one. The Rokinon rents for $30USD for a weekend (Rokinon 14mm f/2.8 IF ED UMC Ultra Wide-Angle Lens for Canon)There are various free apps that help you visual where the Milky Way will be rising from in the sky so you can point you camera in the correct direction. Ideally you will be in a remote location far away from any cities (lots of light pollution) on a new moon (makes the Milky Way more intense). That mean you should really practice manually focusing your lenses because unless there something bright (like the moon, or a car over 100 ft away) the AF will have difficultly correctly focusing on infinity. One trick is to focus during twilight (after sunset) and switch to manual focus and just wait an hour until it is dark.

What are the best DSLR settings for Milky Way photography?

Over the years, I have photographed the Milky Way using a DSLR camera and wide angle camera lens. Each year, my photos get a little bit better as I learn new techniques for acquiring and processing the images.As another member of the community mentioned, there is no one-size fits all answer here, but there are some general Milky Way Photography settings that offer a helpful reference and starting point.If the summary below is too vague, you can read about my process of capturing incredible Milky Way images in this tutorial.Recommended Milky Way Photography Settings for your DSLRThe following camera settings can be applied to an entry-level DSLR camera such as a Canon EOS Rebel T3i (600D). This is the DLSR camera that was used to capture the images of the Milky Way in this post.Exposure: 30 secondsISO: 1600F-Stop: F/3.2White Balance: AutoNumber of Frames: 60A good starting point is to take 30-second exposures at ISO 1600, using an f-stop of F/2.8.It’s worth noting, that your images of the Milky Way can dramatically improve when you stack several images together to improve the signal-to-noise ratio of your final image.The Milky Way captured using a 14mm ultra wide angle camera lens and DSLRBy combining multiple images together (stacking), you can create images of the Milky Way a even stronger signal (the amount of light collected) and reduced noise.There are also some key pieces of equipment and software that can take your photographs to the next level. When you are able to take longer (tracked) exposures that compensate for the apparent rotation of the night sky, you can reveal much more detail in the Milky Way.Recommend Equipment and SoftwareA tracking camera mount (iOptron SkyTracker Pro)A “fast” camera lens (Rokinon 14mm F/2.8)Long-exposure Images (2-minutes) to collect more signal in a single frameImage stacking to improve the signal-to-noise ratio (DeepSkyStacker)The image processing stage is perhaps the most exciting part of the process, yet can also be the most difficult. I have recorded a step-by-step Milky Way image processing tutorial using Adobe Photoshop for those that are interested.

Why does my phone's video capture mode look different than it's picture mode?

You don’t say what phone you have, so this is entirely guessing:The conventional still image aspect ratio is 3:2 or 1.5. The standard image aspect ratio for HD video is 16:9 or about 1.78. So at least one of these modes will show pixels from the sensor that are cropped off in the other mode, in order to create the aspect ratio desired for the two modes.Some cameras use electronic image stabilization when shooting video. This is implemented by using only (for example) the centre 90% of the sensor area for the final image, with some unused “border” pixels around it. When the camera shakes, the image moves on the sensor, and the camera moves the “capture window” around on the sensor to track the image movement. In this way, the effect of the camera movement is partially removed from the video. On the other hand, still images can use the whole sensor.Some cameras do not have the ability to read the entire sensor at 30 or 60 FPS. So they use a smaller portion of the sensor which can be read fast enough to maintain the desired frame rate. This reduces the field of view. It does not necessarily reduce image quality much, because many cameras these days have 12 million sensor pixels, but “full HD” video requires only 2 million pixels. So you can ignore a large percentage of the sensor area and still produce HD-quality video. (4K video is more of a challenge).Still image mode can use long exposures in dark areas. Video capture modes mostly can’t. Some video cameras will drop their frame rate to about 15 FPS in the dark, to get more exposure, but the quality of motion suffers.