Bought a car and discovered the "Check Engine" light was on, and covered with black tape...?
The issue would be deceptive selling, making a material change to hide a known deficiency, which I think trumps "as is"... But my gut feeling is that the owner covered the light a while ago... when he was using it. The car was inspected in August, and they included the receipt, showing an oil and lube and new air filter as well. It was actually sold to me by the owner's brother-in-law, who had Power of Attorney -- since August, the actual owner had a stroke and it looks like he will be hospitalized for the rest of his life... So I am thinking that if it just passed inspection, including emissions, it is a problem with the "Check Engine" light itself, and not a real issue with the car.
Is it okay to buy a perfectly running car from a private-party vehicle owner but with a branded title (water damaged/ engine replacement)?
Yes, it is okay, after all, it’s your decision. I am assuming you have (or will) perform a visual inspection of the vehicle, and test drive it.Additionally, I would have a reputable mechanic perform an inspection, and test drive the vehicle. Only deal with a mechanic that is willing, to provide a written summary. The summary should identify the specific areas he inspected, his findings, and identify the major components/systems that were excluded from his inspection. Insist that the summary of the inspection is written, on company letterhead, and signed and dated by the mechanic. Also, insist that the summary contain a statement to the effect that, for the areas he inspected, that there were no omissions, that any excluded ares are identified, and that unless otherwise stated, that other than the excluded area, the remainder of the vehicle was inspected.The summary should also include his observation/impression resulting from the test drive. The mechanic should provide an approximate cost for correcting any deficiencies. Use the inspection summary to negotiate a lower price, based on the expenditures that you wouldotherwise have to paymfor. Insist that the owner guarantee, in writing, that the vehicle will pass any government mandated inspection. And, withold sufficient funds to pay for the necessary repairs. Try to obtain some kind of warranty, but unlikely.Now, for my opinion. I would not purchase a vehicle that was water damageThere is a reason the state requires that water damaged vehicles be identified. You can never predict what problems might crop up. Moreover, reselling a water damaged vehicle will be difficult, And, it’s unlikely you will recover the repair costsbecause of the water damage. Not trying to be a downer, but i have expressed my honest opinion.But, don ‘t let my opinion dissuade you. If everything looks good, i.e., no major issues identified by thr inspection, and the owneris willing to negotiate with you regarding the concession that you want.Good Luck. And remember, “caveat emptor”.
I just bought a car from a private seller. I asked if everything was fine with the car and if the head gasket was okay. The seller said everything was fine; but after a day I now have a blown head gasket. Do I have any recourse against the seller?
“Private seller” are like “Auction Sell’s”, you don’t KNOW what you are buying. That’s a Universal Law.‘Private Selling” is usually UNDERSTOOD to be Sold & Bought under the “As Is” Clause; unless there is a Bill of Sale that states otherwise.There is at least 6 SIMPLE Things a Buyer SHOULD do First, BUT, This is ONLY when you have decided that “this is the ONE” :CarFax - is a really good resource + may also list any Manufacturer’s Re-Call’s.Pay-Your-Own Mechanic Shop Inspection - including a Code Run + Cylinder Compression Test. $85 to $150 is a worth investment.BEFORE, you do a “Test Drive” - OPEN the Hood & Take some Photos + written NOTES. Is the Engine compartment DIRTY? Does it have a BRAND Name Battery? When was the last Tune-Up & Oil Change? Where? - -PULL the dipstick … LOOK at the Oil & SMELL it, does it smell like oil or an OFF or Gasoline smell? … LOOK at the Master cylinder / Brake fluid Level … WHEN was it replaced? Last Brake job? … LOOK at the Coolant jug, Does it Look CLEAR? ASK about any Radiator problems? - - Check TAIL PIPE with engine running, is it Black, or ash color? - - - -TIRES! One of the most important DETAILS to NOTE - Are they QUALITY BRAND, or Cheap or Junk-yards tires? ALWAYS Check the Spare, it will usually be the SAME Brand that was OEM on the vehicle.IF the Top of the Engine & Hoses have been PAINTED in Glossy Black … EXIT Immediately.Test Drive - TURN-OFF Radio, Run Speed bumps and Curves and going Up-Hill … STOP Talking … Listen carefully … Was the acceleration Smooth? Brakes sounds? Shocks thumping?TBC …
Have you ever bought a car from eBay?
Sure, I’ll contribute my story.I bought a 1984 Porsche 944 for $5,000. The car was listed at 7,500 Buy it Now and the guy took my offer about 10 minutes after I made it. First sign of trouble.eBay requires a deposit when you close a deal which was $500 for me. The car was near Evansville, IN and I was living in Atlanta at the time. I made arrangements to fly out and drive the car back on a Friday, and called a local Porsche/German specialty shop to do an inspection for me.Unfortunately, I missed my flight (Atlanta traffic and, as it would turn out, some good luck). The guy agreed to have the car inspected anyway and I would fly out later that day or on Saturday. By lunch on Friday, I got a call from the guys at the shop, who were already pretty skeptical when I first called them and explained the deal.Multiple oil leaks, missing bits, misaligned body panels, interior parts installed incorrectly, obvious aftermarket paint….the car was real, but it had definitely been in a SERIOUS accident at some point.Initially, the guy was totally unwilling to return my deposit but after a little negotiating, I was able to convince him to release it in exchange for $100 for his time driving to the shop. I also paid $100 for the inspection.$200 to save $5,000 (plus more as I would have inevitably tried to ‘save’ the car with additional repairs) is a pretty good deal, but lesson learned — if it looks to good to be true, take it to someone who knows what they’re looking at. Or buy local. I guess there’s probably a few lessons in there. Most of the stories here seem to be about finding a ‘gem’ and it seems that it only works out maybe half the time, so be careful out there.
I bought a car, the title says "previously recorded as salvage" what exactly does that mean?
Does that meant that at some point in this cars life it had a salvage title? I'm just trying to make sure that I can have this car titled in my name without an inspection. As of right now there is no major damage to the car.
Is private party seller responsible for cracked radiator and if car wont pass smog when told all was good?
In CA seller is responsible to have it smog before being sold. They must show proof that it passed. Smog places will not even attempt to test any vehicle with an non CARB approved headers. A cracked radiator should be easy to spot during inspection. You did inspect the car before buying - right? On the other hand, if seller disclosed all the issues and smog problem then the car can be sold as is. But all this must be done in writing and both parties agrees.
Is it better to buy a used car from a private seller or from a dealership?
It depends. My theory is, if you are spending anywhere from $1,000USD to $5,000USD, private party will get you the most bang for your buck.You can run a carfax and get a general idea of the history of the car, and check for things like transmission shifting smooth, oil not looking clowdy or burnt smelling, and running the car for over 20 minutes and letting it idle with the air conditioner on for 10 minutes (the overheat test). Theres plenty of other simple tests you can do when buying a used car to make sure its decent.When you get to the $5,000 —$10,000 USD range it starts to flip. Your investing more money, so its kind of worse if you end up with a lemon. There is a tradeoff where you say to yourself, “Hey… Self….. I know I am getting a little bit less of a car buying this $9,000 car from the Honda dealership, but I know it has been safety checked, and it passes inspection, and most importantly, this reputable dealership has chosen to keep the car and sell it on their lot.” A reputable dealer would just wholesale a car with a major problem.You should always get *more car* shopping private party, but a little more technical expertise is needed to ensure a good buy.Smaller lots aka *Tims Autos* or whatever usually buy leftover junk from auctions that other reputable places passed on - so keep it at a reputable place. Buy here pay here places arent the best places to find a good cash deal. [Always exceptions to any rule, I have seen a decent small family owned non affiliated dealer before, but in general NO]Any questions just ask.
My dad is like paranoid about buying a used car!?
Listen to your dad. I bought a car from a private seller and three weeks later it broke down on the way to work. Not only was I late but I had to pay 70 dollars for a two minute tow (literally). Now since I wasted all of my money on that car and private deals are non-refundable I'm screwed. Your dad has more experience in areas like this and take his word for it. Don't gamble with cars. Not having one is almost like not having legs. It sucks and I dont know what I'm going to do. Make the right choice!!!
Lets say I was going to buy a used vehicle at 6pm from a private seller, my plan would be to drive it home and put it on my insurance and in my name first thing in the morning. Is that legal to do?
Consider the method used by automobile dealerships:They set up insurance PRIOR to the new owner driving away—they have a legal responsibility to do that, so they don’t get in trouble, should the driver be involved in an accident after they leave the dealership.I would advise contacting your auto insurance company PRIOR to purchasing & driving the car you plan to buy, so they can provide coverage to you and your ‘new’ vehicle, in case something should happen on your way home.To do otherwise leaves you ‘on the hook’ for any costs associated with any possible accident that could happen—regardless of whose fault it might be—if your drive the vehicle prior to getting insurance coverage.Also bear in mind, even if no accidents happen, you could still incur a financial burden if you are stopped by police prior to obtaining insurance coverage, as most U.S. States require proof of insurance to drive a vehicle upon the roads within its jurisdiction.You could also get your question answered by calling your local Department of Motor Vehicles.