How much gas does a car burn per hour while idling?
In my experience, its around 0.34 to 0.40 gallons per hour for cars, minivans, and suvs. It appears trucks may consume slightly more gas at idle, about 0.5 to 0.7 gallons per hour.I have a ScanGauge II, bought it to help me improve my MPG but it does a bunch of other technical car stuff, one of which is read/calculate gallons per hour consumption. It plugs into the OBD-II port which reads the car’s computer output.I put it into every vehicle I have driven since 2011, including rentals. It’s interesting how idle fuel consumption varies so little despite the difference in engine displacement or vehicle configuration (such as engine size 1.6L to 3.5L, 4 cylinders to 6 cylinders). I rarely drive with AC on, so the GPH at idle only reflects consumption without AC. Also GPH at idle is ambient temperature and altitude dependant. Cars use more gas when it’s colder out and use even more gas when the air is thinner.2003 Kia Sedona Minivan, 2006 Hyundai XG350 luxury sedan, 2007 Mazda 6 sedan, 2013 VW Bug, 2014 Honda CRV (FWD) suv, 2017 VW Jetta sedan, 2018 Hyundai Tucson (FWD) suv are the cars my family owns/owned. Tried to get some info from my dad’s 2010 Audi Q5 suv, but was unsuccessful.Rentals- PT Cruiser, VW Tiguan AWD, Dodge Grand Caravan, Jeep (something entry level with cvt), Mazda 5, and Citroen Zafira (rented in europe).Also glimpsed idle consumption from my friend’s 2000’s decade Ford F250 and a “square body” Chevy truck. A bit higher for both, dunno if it’s because they’re in need of repair, at 0.55 and 0.69 gallons per hour at idle.Hope this helps answer your question.
Can I put a V6 engine into a 4-cylinder car?
If the car was originally delivered with both types of engines, it might not even be very hard.There are some special considerations though. The first generation of Saab 9–5 was delivered with three choices of engine (I’m leaving out the diesel engines, they shouldn’t be in cars anyway), a 2.0t I4, a 2.3t I4, and a 3.0t V6. The 3.0t was only delivered with an automatic transmission, while the smaller engines were delivered with both types. Converting a 9–5 2.0 manual to a 3.0 automatic is probably going to be more work than converting a 2.0 automatic to 3.0 automatic.Then, on the other hand, you might achieve your goals in much easier ways than complete engine swaps, depending on what those goals are. As original, the 2.0t has 150 hp and 240 Nm, while the 3.0t has 200 hp and 310 Nm. If the goal is to increase power and torque, a simple software upgrade to the 2.0t will give you 210 hp and 320 Nm, meaning you get more power and torque than the 3.0t, while retaining the better fuel economy of the 2.0t. Of course, the 3.0t could also be software upgraded, but it is a very strange engine that is very hard to get much extra power from, so you’ll probably increase the power only from 200 to 220 hp. If you want more power than a simple software upgrade will give the 2.0t, changing to a bigger turbo and more open exhaust can make that little engine yield much more power than the weird 3.0t could ever hope for. Strangely, the 2.3t was sold completely original in a version with 260 hp and 350 Nm, noticeably more than the original 3.0t, so the Saab 9–5 was faster with the strongest type of original 4-cylinder engine than it was with the V6.However, if your goal is smoothness rather than outright power, the V6 would probably win every time.
What could be the cause of a car’s temperature gauge to fluctuate?
There are several possibilities.1) faulty teperature gauge. In this case the gauage will have to be replaced. This is relarively simple and inexpensive depinding on the make and model of the car.2) Issue with the radiator, coolant of the car. This could be caused due to insufficient coolant, leakage of coolant, damage to the radiator of the car. This will require extensive repair. In this case, it is advised to get the issue diagnosed and fixed at the earliest to avoid engine damage due to over heating.Hope this helps. :)
Why does the gas pump keep stopping when my tank isn’t full?
Question: “Why does the gas pump keep stopping when my tank is not full?”I have owned and worked on and built high performance engines since the 1960’s.Although it is possible that your car’s filler tube is damaged and restricted, that would have been caused either by an accident or by the removal and improper re-installation of the gas tank. If so, you would be aware of the problem, and it is unlikely you would be asking the question on Quora.The more likely explanation is that the vapor recovery system on the car is damaged.This system vents the fuel vapors from the fuel tank into a canister filled with absorbent granulated charcoal and then into the engine intake manifold, preventing the gases from venting off into to air and adding to pollution. (Older cars did vent gas fumes directly into the atmosphere. That is why you can smell raw gas at any display of classic cars.)In a modern car, if these fumes are not vented off, pressure will build up as you try to fill your gas tank, especially if you are doing so quickly. When the pump nozzle assembly senses this increased pressure it registers it as a full or nearly full tank and shuts off the flow of the gasoline from the pump to the nozzle. Think of that like trying to quickly fill a Coke bottle with water from a quickly flowing kitchen faucet. The air in the bottle has to escape before the liquid can go in.There are several points where the Evaporative Emissions Control System on your car could fail and create the problem you are experiencing. Vacuum lines might have been pinched or damaged. The solenoid valve may be sticking. But the most likely problem is that you have a clogged or damaged EVAP Canister.Your EVAP Canister looks like this,or like this.It is located in the engine compartment, low in the chassis, probably at the front.Why did the Evaporative Emissions Canister fail? Well, you broke it. Or someone else who fuels the car broke it.Did you ever continue to add gas to the tank, in an effort to add another gallon, after the nozzle clicks off? Well, in doing so you flooded the EVAP Canister by forcing liquid gasoline up lines that were meant to handle vapors. You saturated the charcoal media within the EVAP canister and prevented it from acting as a vapor recovery/transfer media.Your fueling problem can be resolved by replacing the EVAP Canister. Unfortunately, these things can be expensive.
What is a UPS truck called?
In UPS parlance, the vehicles that are used to deliver packages to your house are called “package cars”. Tractor-trailer combinations are called “Feeders”.The current fleet of package cars are being built by “Workhorse”, which is a division of Navistar, and Freightliner .In the picture above, a Workhorse is on the right of the empty space, with its more-rounded hood. The surrounding cars are all Freightliners, except the car whose left front bumper is visible in the lower right corner of the picture. It is an older style car built by Grumman Olson on a General Motors frame, introduced in 1997.Here is a better view of the older car. To its left are two more Freightliners, the one closer to it having rounded lights similar to it. The newest Freightliners have the rounded lights, probably to pay homage to the classic design of the headlights found on the iconic package car design many people are familiar with.One final note: UPS package cars are all classed by a designation that begins with “P”, which I have always assumed stood for “Package Car”. The number in the designation represents the amount of cubic feet in the car, so for example, a P-70 (or P-700) has 700 cubic ft, a P-57 570 cu.ft, P-1000 has 1000 cu.ft., etc. In the pictures above are P-800s and P-1000s ; the Workhorse in the first picture and the GM car are P-1200s. FWIW, I typically drive a Workhorse P-1200, although not the one pictured.Edited 12/24/16: Added pictures.
How long does it take to repair a head gasket?
You don’t repair a head gasket, you replace it.Once I had a rally car - a bit of a ratty old junker if the truth be told - that had a 2.3 litre overhead cam engine. It was a bit like this, only this one is way nicer:Anyway I was heading off to do a rally on some Friday night. On the Thursday, the day before, I took it out for a blast around the lanes to shake down any last-minute faults, and blew the head gasket. It was too late to do anything about it that night, so next morning, I got up at the crack of dawn, stripped the engine down to the point of having the head off (it was OHC, so that involved also removing the cambox, timing belts, etc. plus the exhaust manifold, inlet manifold and carburettors) By then it was almost 9am, so I drove to the nearest big town - 25 miles away - to get a replacement head gasket set. 25 miles back, and by 10am had the head all cleaned and ready to be reassembled. Engine back together and running by 12pm, I then had to drive it 250 miles to where the rally started. It all went smoothly and I made it with plenty of time to spare.So the answer to your question, for me, on that occasion, for this car, was about 6 hours, including an hour to fetch the parts. Sometimes what you need, apart from the basic skills, which in my case don’t amount to all that much, is a great big incentive!As I recall, the rally ended in disaster, but that’s another story.
What happens if you attempt to drive with a broken serpentine belt?
The serpentine belt powers many different accessories and required pieces of equipment on an engine. You can live without the air conditioner. The car is usable for a short time without the alternator working if you have a good battery. You can man handle the steering wheel without power steering. Some cars have a smog/emissions control pump that needs to work or the engine will run rough or even not at all.BUT, you will overheat your engine if the water pump is not turning and pumping coolant through the engine and radiator. You could make a short drive of 5 minutes or so before engine heat would be a problem. Hopefully, that is to a mechanic who will replace the broken serpentine belt.