I slipped and fell down and now my lower back hurts. What do I do now?
It depends on where exactly you are feeling the pain as to how to treat it.Firstly you should go to a professional physiotherapist or doctor to get a scan to properly diagnose what it is.I am not a physiotherapist and can’t give advice but can tell you how I have fixed my own lower back issues through physiotherapy and a lot self treatment.Also, is the pain radiating down one of your legs? Or up into your lower back area?If it is down one of the legs, it is possible you have some compression in one of the the lower lumbar discs. To help alleviate this, you can decompress it by putting your lower back in traction - easiest way I could do this was to let my legs hang while in a dip station (see pic):It’s the best pic I could find. You don’t need to raise the legs or work your abs, just breathe, relax and let them hang for 20–30 seconds at a time. This will take a lot of pressure off the spine. You can also lay on the ground and have a friend lift and pull your legs or think of your own variation.If the pain is radiating upwards, it is likely an issue with your gluteus minimus or gluteus medius. To help this, you need to stretch and massage it to release it. See pics:If you google or type ‘glute stretch and massage’ into youtube you will find a wealth of info on how to do it and will explain better than I could :)That is just a start. You still should go to have it professionally diagnosed but these exercises will help alleviate the pain.I hope this helps.
The coolant light in my car is on when I turn the car on but will turn off after driving for a bit. Is that normal?
Hey Adam, thanks for the A2A :)I had a Ford Escort wagon that used to do this on me on occasion …usually with the change of season to colder weather.The coolant level in your expansion tank is low …but not low enough to keep the light on all the time.What’s happening?With the first start of the day, the coolant is cold and is at it’s smallest volume. The coolant, as it cools, draws back into the engine block from the expansion tank. In your case, the coolant level drops just below the sensor for the coolant light …and the light turns on. After you start the car, the coolant begins to warm …and expand in volume. As the coolant expands it will begin to fill the expansion tank to a point where it deactivates the sensor and thus the light on your dash goes out.I suspect if you check the expansion tank when the engine is cold …prior to the first start of the day …you’ll find it’s a bit low. Simply add the proper type of coolant or some distilled water to the expansion tank up to bring the level up to the “COLD” line on the tank. You may have to check this a few days in a row, prior to the first start, to get the coolant level stable at the “COLD” mark.
How long do you have to drive your car to recharge the battery?
Curiously, of all answers so far, no one has shown the physics. This starts from the battery’s charge capacity, which is measured in Amp-hours.A typical car battery has 50 Amp-hour capacity. This means from completely dead to fully charged, requires a product of current (in Amps) times time (in hours) of somewhat more than 50. You need more, because of charging inefficiencies.A typical charging system can have 60 Amps left over after supplying headlights and the needs of the engine, so it will take about an hour of driving, provided you are smart enough to leave optional equipment like heater fan, seat warmers, whatever, OFF. If not, it may take 2 or more hours; if you expect the battery to get back up to snuff while you have all your electrical accessories running, you’ll be disappointed.Lastly, if your battery is oldish like 5 years or so, it won’t have the capacity that it had new. Perhaps only half that capacity, or less. In that case, it will come up to “full charge” sooner, but that’s not a good thing: it will also go dead sooner.
Why is it that sometimes when I urinate I get the shivers?
There's already a detailed answer. So, I'd be as brief as I can. Thanks for the A2A. :)More often than not the shiver or trembling the body goes through during or after peeing occurs after you have held on to the urine for quite a long time before finally releasing it. The shiver normally occurs after urination or moments before the urination ends. The shiver starts in the spine and rapidly moves all over the body, causing the entire body to shudder briefly.Below are some of the reasons why a person might shake after urinating:According to doctors, one of the likely reasons is because the body’s temperature quickly gets lowered after we have released enormous amounts of warm fluids from the body in the form of urine. As a result of this, the body’s protective mechanism quickly causes the body to shiver in order to bring some warmth back to the body. This is the same thing that happens to the body when we are very cold – the body begins to shiver in order to bring some heat back to the body.Another reason some people might experience pee shakes is likely because of a simple thing such as the fact that when a person wants to urinate, they expose their private parts to the cold air outside. As a result of this, the person naturally feels cold and shivers during or after urination.Also because of something called the shiver reflex. Our parasympathetic system tends to simultaneously lower blood pressure while initiating the bladder contraction (sacrum plexus). Hence in order to counter that, our sympathetic system initiates a shiver reflex to counter this drop. Men tend to experience it more since blood pressure is higher when standing and hence the drop will be significant.( hope I have not offended you. Great answer btw!)
What could be the problem with my car, every time fuel goes low, it starts misfiring and sputtering, if I hit a pothole or go over a bump too fast, it will switch itself off?
My answer is probably wrong in this case, but it may stimulate your thinking. Back in the 1970s, I had a wife and she bought a slightly used 1976 VW Rabbit from a salesman, not a private owner. When he handed over the car, it had a full tank of gas. That was a big clue. What we found was that it would run fine till the tank was about half empty. Then at a certain point it would sputter or quit, and if we filled up the tank it would be OK again. I paid a mechanic who diagnosed it as needing a fuel pump, but the new pump did not help. I was not very experienced about cars, but one day I got some inspiration to look at the gas lines. It was just a matter of pulling the bottom part of the rear seat out. There were two rubber hoses to the tank. The design had a fuel pump on the engine in front; it would run full speed and the gas not taken by the carburetor flowed back into the tank. That was a way to prevent vapor lock, apparently. The one hose that the pump sucked on connected to a rigid pipe reaching close to the bottom of the tank. The return pipe only went half way down. In some prior repair, the hoses had been crossed. I switched them right there at the tank, and that fixed it. Nothing was labelled, but there are only 2 ways to connect 2 hoses to 2 pipes. I suspect that few cars have the 2 fuel lines today, but others would know better about that.