Can a bad car battery cause engine misfire?
So everyone on hear that says a weak battery cannot cause a misfire is wrong especially with a Subaru!!! I recently ran into this exact same problem with my 2013 Subaru Impreza 2.0L. My car began to have a rough idle anytime I was sitting at a stop light. Then the CEL came on for a misfire in the cylinder and the dealership wanted me to do $1000 worth of work replacing the coil packs and spark plugs. I specifically asked them if a weak battery would cause the problem and they said no as well. I knew my battery was weak because I couldn't leave my car radio on for 5 min with out the battery dying. All battery tests I did said the battery was fine. Today I finally got sick of having to worry about it not starting from leaving the door open or the radio on while it wasn't running. Sure enough my check engine light turned off and now my car has greatly improved performance! Also my car now idles like it is supposed to. I'm thinking my fuel pump was not getting enough power which caused the misfiring. Either way the problem is fixed and I suggest looking into the battery first!
How long can I drive my car with bad coil packs?
It is not a question of how long you can do it. It is more a question if you should.The answer is you should not. You can drive the car until it breaks down completely (and it will). While doing so you will, as pointed out by other answers, run the risk of damaging the converter but you also run the risk of fire.If the coil is faulty very bad things can happen. Car fires are usually related to causes associated with fuel, and/or electrical. Once a fuel part starts leaking while a car is running, a fuel drip can be the formula for fire if you get sparks from a spark plug wire or an ignition coil that is faulty. Something like this could be the end result. (the image is from the web, I am just using it to illustrate a possible scenario, I do not know what happened with the beamer) But I have seen a Lancia catch fire from a faulty ignition coil.So, why risk it? Yes, they are not cheap, but you really should get a new one. By trying to "save" a few bucks you may end up having to spend a lot more.
85 ford f150 4.9 straight 6, no spark at coil?
The trigger for the coil comes from the engine controller. Likely there is something wrong with it. This vehicle is too old for an OBD 2 port but there may be some sort of on board diagnostics you can check. There is a good chance the hall sensor in the distributor may be gone but to just change that is shotgun troubleshooting and could be very likely not the problem. Considering you already wasted the cost of replacing what is likely a perfectly good coil, you need to bite the bullet and get it professionally diagnosed by someone able to properly test the electronics.
Can faulty spark plugs make your car blow white smoke out of the exhaust?
No, If the plug isn’t firing the vehicle engine would be running rough because it is missing and the unburned fuel will cause black smoke not white or grey. First look to see if it’s actually smoke or steam. Steam will dissipate almost immediately where smoke will linger much longer. White or grey smoke will be either bad valve guides or the piston rings. If you have bad valve guides the smoke will be produced on deceleration and if the piston rings are worn or broken to will have smoke upon acceleration and while running at an idle. Quickest and easiest way is to be behind the vehicle while someone pushes and releases the accelerator pedal look to see if there is any water coming out after the car is warmed up. (water can come from condensation after an engine has cooled and when it is first started again so make sure the engine has warmed up). Hold a piece of paper behind the tailpipe and see how much water you get and or if it is actually water or engine smoke. Good Luck
Spark plug wires question.?
You can test your present ignition wires with an OHM's meter with the meter leads poked on each end of the ignition wire. Don't forget to flex the wire into a U shape and reverse the U into the opposite direction as you test. If you read more than 350 OHM's per foot of wire length, in the trash they will go. Pop your hood at night, start it up and spray a mist of water from a pump spray bottle on all your ignition wires. Any truck which has 92,000 miles on the clock with the original spark plugs wires will look like the Fourth of July under the hood. Normally ignition wires are good for only 50,000 miles so get the trash basket ready. Inspect the outside of the gray Motorcraft wires for tiny white spots where the wires have rubbed on the motor or wire-looms. That's a dead giveaway they've been loosing spark energy to ground. Pull the waste basket even closer! Moroso Race 40, Taylor, MSD and DUI Live Wires have lower radio resistance than stock Motorcraft brand wires. A stock set of AC-Delco wires are slightly less expensive than Motorcraft wires and have lower resistance. I've tossed two sets of Motorcraft wires from my 24 valve Mercury Sable. The Motorcraft plugs burn the electrodes too wide after 50,000 miles. ** Wide plug gaps and ignition wires that leak voltage will burn-up one or more of your individual ignition coils. Or single coil module. A word to the wise. Don't buy cheap ignition coils from box stores.
What causes spark plugs not to fire?
It can be a problem with the distributor or the plug itself. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9K78XIhhj... this video is very helpful
Truck still shaking after spark plug change?
We have a 2006 ford f150 with a 5.4L V8 3 valve triton engine in it. One morning the engine light came on and the truck started shaking heavily. We took the truck to autozone and they said 8, 6, and 5 were misfiring. We successfully changed the spark plugs and turned on the truck. The engine light has turned off but the truck is still shaking. Any ideas of what might still be wrong with it, possibly a coil pack?
There is no spark in my 1996 Ford F150 4.9L straight 6, 5 speed standard, any suggestions...?
if voltage at coil then the only thing left is spark plug wire or spark plugs
92 Ford F-150 will crank but not fire. Has spark and fuel pressure. Won't start?
I have a 92 Ford F150, I drove it to the bank, was in side maybe 5 minutes, came back outside and it would turn over but not fire. I checked all of the fuses first, and then listened for both fuel pumps, they were both humming fine. I then pressed down on the valve core of the fuel rail and seemed to have good pressure. Next move I took the ignition module off and went to the parts house to get it tested. It passed all 5 times he tried it. The parts guy did say the machine can be inaccurate, so I bought one anyway to try. Plugged up new module and engine started, ran a little rough at first and the cel did come on but I managed to make it home. Once I was safe in the driveway I tried to start it again and same thing happened, crank but no fire. I checked fuel pressure first and it was right at 40 psi, the I checked spark at the coil. I had good spark at the coil and I checked about 4 random cylinders and they were all sparking. I'm at a loss. It is a 92 ford f150 with a 302 v8 5.0L. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated
What would cause a new spark plug not to fire after you put it in?
bad coil no power to the coil bad points / condenser [if fitted] bad hall sensor [if fitted] bad crankshaft position sensor [if fitted] bad ecu / pcm [if fitted] bad stator [if fitted] bad magneto [if fitted] you neglected to identify the engine so no real answer possible. Just guessing.