Life expectancy of 2004 Kia Spectra?
2004 Kia spectra actually had two distinct models, the original spectra which ended production of that generation that year, then the 2004 1/2 model which began that year and ended the generation this year. If you keep up on maintenance the car should last, although the 2004 1/2 has proven to be more durable. At 60,000 miles kia recommends replacing timing belt, if you don't do this the motor will be a ticking time bomb. On the other had, even though overall the earlier 2004 is less reliable overall, if you miss replacing the timing belt and it snaps, you can just replace it then. The newer 2004 1/2 model has whats called an interference engine and will bend valves and require extensive engine work or replacement if the belt breaks. The older model is susceptible to rear wheel cylinders leaking and bad transmissions, bad weather seals, odd electrical problems. The newer version has not been as predictable with problems, but I have noticed some reoccurring problems such as guage cluster defects and crankshaft sensor problems. Of course there is no way of knowing how long exactly the car will last, if you keep up on basic things like fluid changes, brakes, belts, hoses, plugs, and filters, this will maximize the life of your car. I've seen them stumble in at 60,000 needing transmissions, I've seen them die at 80,000 with broken timing belts, and i've seen them still pushing along at 120,000 strong as can be. 2004 1/2-http://a332.g.akamai.net/f/332/936/12h/w... 2004 - http://vlane.com/img/chrome/4588.jpg
What does (EX) mean on a 2004 kia spectra EX?
its the model type just different SPECS like how big the motor is and how nice it is and things like that
Kia spectra 2004 speedometer not working?
If the used part was tested and was working properly before installing it in your vehicle, it seems that the problem is within your car and could be related to the sensors or the ECU (vehicle's brain). We would advise you to take the vehicle to an authorized Kia repair shop or your local Kia dealership service department. Raul Kia Social Team
My speedometer is stuck on 80mph, What does that mean?
HI! it is ok to drive the vehicle...just try not to speed! You have NO Cable to operate your Speedometer. it is all electronic ( and i do not mean digital ! ) The Speed Sensor could not be at fault for this type of Problem either! I have seen this Many Many times in Chevy , Gmc , Buick , Pontiac Etc vehicles. They even will warranty the cluster thru the dealership!! The Problem lies in the Speedometer Cluster. These Clusters made after 2000 have Stepper Motors to drive ALL the gauges including the SPEEDOMETER ! The Tachometer and Speedometer are the Most prone to failure as they are used the most! It is best to have the Instrument Cluster Removed and Repaired or Replaced. A junkyard Replacement is ok but make sure you get a guarantee. I pull at least one cluster a week and repair them for this same sort of problem! I would charge $100 to repair the cluster plus shipping. I guarantee my work for 2 years. I hope this helps Good Luck!
Is it possible to "roll back the odometer" in modern cars?
It's not just possible, it's easier than it has ever been. On old cars you could tell that the screws on the dash had been tampered with, it was also possible to spot wear on the seats, pedals, steering wheel, gear lever, etc. On modern cars you hook up the car to a laptop via the diagnostic port and apply the correct (freely available) software and you're done. Zero evidence. On top of this modern cars, particularly cars that are likely to have high miles such as German saloons, are much better made, the interior trim doesn't show signs of use nearly as clearly.
Why does my brake light fuse keep blowing out?
If none of your three brake lights is working, it's doubtful that all of the individual bulbs have burned out. It's far more likely you have an electrical system problem. It may sound complicated and expensive, but don't worry. Odds are the electrical system trouble is nothing more than a failed brake light system fuse.Each part of the car's electrical system corresponds to a fuse, which protects it from amperage overload; if one electrical component blows out, the rest of the car doesn't get fried. If the fuse fails, electricity can't reach the lights, which may be in fine working order otherwise.Like all fuses, the brake light system fuse can be found in the power distribution centre, which is under the dashboard or tucked away underneath the hood. Never heard of the power distribution centre? It's just the technical name for a fuse box. Using your car's manual, locate the fuse that correlates to the brake lights.You'll need a connect test light for the next step (you can get one at any auto parts store.) Turn your car's ignition to the "on" position, grab the connect test light and attach it to a ground, like the dash or the body of the car, and gently press the tip of the tester to each of the fuse's two ends. Now, press down lightly on the gas pedal. Does the test light illuminate? If so, the fuse is functional, and the problem most likely is a used-up brake light bulb. If, however, the test light illuminates when the connection is only pressed against one side of the fuse, the fuse is faulty. If the test light fails to light at all, regardless of where it's connected to the fuse, you definitely need to replace the fuse.But wait, you're not done -- once you put in a new fuse, you'll need to test it again. If both lights trigger, the fuse is working and the repair is complete. If the new fuse doesn't work while you have a foot on the pedal, the circuit itself is shorted out. That's a more complicated and expensive fix, which will need to be handled by a professional mechanic.Hope it helps.
What are some symptoms of a bad idle air control sensor?
Idle air control valves open to allow more air to "leak" into the intake, raising the engine rpms, or close when not needed. When your AC compressor kicks in or power steering is activated as you suddenly turn the steering wheel, the sudden drag on the drive belt will bog down the engine. These systems send a signal to the engine computer telling it they are active and it then signals the IAC valve to open, which increases the engine speed. Without this occurring, the engine could struggle, or die. The IAC valve can cause weird idle issues, mess with throttle functionality or cause the car to die. Sometimes they fail, get stuck or just get all carboned up. Sometimes people have success at cleaning them, but generally it is best to replace them when bad. Idle issues and even problems with the IAC valve may not be due to the IAC valve being bad itself. An idle issue does not mean the IAC valve is bad. It is best to pay close attention to how the vehicle is acting, and then communicate that clearly and as completely as possible to your mechanic. Intermittent problems can be very hard to diagnose. Details will help. Knowing more about the vehicle in question and its symptoms (in detail) will also help in understanding more about what it is doing.
How much would an automatic to manual transmission swap cost?
It depends on what vehicle and what manual transmission. In general, on a rear wheel drive vehicle, swapping out the auto for a stock style manual isn’t terrible. Stock manual transmission assemblies can run anywhere from $1000 to $2000 on common vehicles. Removal and replace usually takes between 5 and 8 hours. Adding a clutch pedal and mounting a cylinder depends on the vehicle and again, whether it is aftermarket or stock bolt in. The problem is, you can’t always just bolt stock replacements back in. If the parts aren’t modular, then adding a pedal can take some time.Swapping out the flex plate for a flywheel and installing a clutch only adds about 15 minutes to the overall labor time.I doubt that manual and auto trans on any vehicle are exactly the same length, so the driveline probably needs to be cut and re-welded. This part of the job would be outsourced by most shops and may run 100–300 bucks. Measuring everything properly so accurate info can be given to the driveline shop takes time. Pinion angles must be checked with the new driveline and in some cases must be adjusted which sometimes requires different spacers being installed under the rear axle.Measuring and cutting a hole for the shifter and boot takes time. Re-wiring the neutral safety switch takes time as well.So, you have the parts cost of transmission, pedal assembly, reservoir, clutch fluid hose or cable, clutch kit, flywheel, driveline modification, any additional brackets that must be bought or made, shifter boot and neutral safety switch swap.Then you have the standard labor of removing and installing the trans, plus the extra labor of making everything work. The extra labor cost is very hard to pin down without knowing what vehicle and if you are going with nice, aftermarket parts or trying to stick with stock parts.Trying to covert a front wheel drive vehicle to manual has potential to be easier. It would be (possibly) easier and cheaper to just buy a complete motor/trans assembly and swap out the whole thing. Sensors might need to be modified and some holes cut in the firewall, but anything can be done.So, I dont know. On old trucks you might be able to do it for 2500 if you buy all new components. On newer vehicles it gets more and more expensive the newer you get as more and more components must be modified or swapped.