Oil pressure gauge install help?
For the VW you need to get a gauge with a larger size(diameter) line. The common gauges available have a very thin line with a very small diameter in it. Since on the VW that line has to run all the way from the back of the vehicle to get to the gauge it will not read even close to accurate. Personally I recommend against them unless you also have the idiot light hooked up as well.
350 Chevy Oil Pressure Gauge Installation?
put a ( t ) connector on the oil pressure sending unit's hole and then put the stock electrical type back on one end and the mechanical line on the other end, there are also other oil galleys that have plugs in them where you can install the fitting for the mechanical line, look on the side of the block near the oil filter.the regular place for the stock unit is next to the distributor on the block ( not the intake manifold)
Install Oil Pressure Gauge in GM 2.2L engine?
Well first off, the gauge I have IS a mechanical gauge, not an electrical one. So it does have the old-school oil line running thru the firewall to the gauge. Secondly, I would just disconnect the factory dummy light sender unit, but then my CEL stays on with no way to turn it off, same with the oil pressure dummy light. So maybe I'll rig up a T-connector. Either way, my question was where is it located on the engine. I would do my own research but the car is on the side of the highway, it's like 15 degrees F here, and I gotta diagnose the problem and do it FAST!
What are the main causes of high oil pressure?
Oil pressure in a car is measured as the resistance to flow between the oil pump in the oil pan and the bearings in the crankshaft. If it is actually too high, it means you are not getting enough oil through the bearings to keep your engine from self destructing.The higher your rpm, the higher your oil pressure, up to the point where an extra valve detours the excess oil back to the oil pan to recirculate. Typically, at idle you will have 10 to 15 psi, with 30 to 40 psi at driving speeds.The colder your engine, the higher your oil pressure, as the oil is still much thicker than it will be at operating temperatures. Typically, on startup, you will have 40 to 60 psi, which will drop to ranges listed above once the engine heats up.A high oil pressure reading on your gauge means:The oil is too viscous (thick). Most cars today are designed for 0W-20 to 5W-30 viscosity. If you are using 10W-40, 20W-50 or something like that, you will have high oil pressure and high wear.Your filter bypass valve on the filter or in the block is stuck closed, and the oil is too thick or dirty to pass through the filter media, trying to go through the bypass valve.If the high pressure is at high rpm, it may be the secondary bypass valve I mentioned at the beginning.Clogged oil passages to the bearings from sludge.Your thermostat is missing or stuck open, not letting the engine heat up.Your gauge is broken. Check it with a manual gauge.
What causes high oil pressure?
It seems that you've only changed two things on and inside your truck motor. Wish you'd had listed what the oil pressure is at this time. 45 psi. is normal going down the road when the motor is @ 200 degrees. 20 - 25 lbs at idle when the motor is hot. The electrical sending unit and thick molasses Engine Restore are the only two things that you've changed . Both or one of these these changes could be giving you a different oil pressure reading. I would recommend a mechanical oil pressure gage right off the bat. If the reading changes, you've found the problem. If it doesn't change, get rid of the "goo" inside the motor before the weather turns-off cold. Any-time oil viscosity goes uo so will oil pressure. The oil pump is working harder which costs you horsepower and mileage. 5W-30 with no goofy additives is recommended for that motor year round. You'll soon wish it was in there during cold Winter starts.
Why does the oil pressure gauge fluctuate on my 2000 Mazda B2500?
It is normal for oil pressure to fluctuate somewhat along with engine speed. It may also decrease a little when oil is warm. The phrase "bottoming out" is frightening though. It should never go to zero. If it is bottoming out there are several things that may be wrong. The worst case scenario is that your oil pressure is actually fluctuating as indicated by the gauge. If that's the case you need to get that fixed PRONTO! This could be caused by an oil pump on the verge of failure or "trash" in your oil filter, or more sinister problems deep inside the engine. Aside from the filter, none of these is easy to fix. If it was my car I would purchase and install a mechanical oil pressure gauge. If the mechanical gauge fluctuates like the old one then the problem is actual oil pressure see paragraph above. If it's stable then it's the wiring or sending unit and you can breathe a sigh of relief. Try replacing the sending unit first. If that doesn't fix it then you'll have to chase down a wiring problem.
Oil pressure gauge fluctuating.. drops at idle.... Sound normal?
I have a 99 Camaro v6 3.8L about 117K About 7 months ago I had the Oil Pressure Sending Unit replaced because the gauge wasn't working at at (like it was off) Just got an oil change yesterday My oil pressure gauge ranges from 0-120 and 60 being normal, its usually between 60-70 at cold start-up When I started up my car I took checked my gauges (because I'm a gauge watcher) and saw that my oil pressure gauge was at 60-70. Which is normal since I had gotten off of work and it had been sitting for quite some time. (oil was thick and cold) So then I had been driving for a good 20-30 minutes or so and I was stopped at a light and noticed that my oil pressure was down to 30, as the light turned green I accelerated and it quickly rose back up to 60 (normal) this continued until I got home. When I got home I did the obvious thing to do and check my oil level, it was normal. Plus there was no puddle in my driveway so I had a clue it couldn't have leaked out. After I had the oil changed yesterday I went right home (less than 5 min away) and didn't drive it again last night. In that short drive the oil didn't heat up thin out enough to drop in pressure I'm assuming. That would explain why I noticed it today in a drive where my car had the opportunity to reach normal operating temperature (which by the way did not go up at all during the fluctuations in the pressure) I'm slightly concerned about it, but it never got down to the red. I haven't had this issue before. The only time the oil pressure was low before is because I needed to top off my oil. Sorry it's a little long of an explanation but I figure it's better to have more details than not enough. :) Thank you!!