My car will not go in reverse but will drive forward. What could be wrong with it?
My 2003 Ford Escape cranks and drives forward with no problem, but will not go in reverse. I tried putting it in neutral and pushing it backwards, but something catches and it won't budge. I did the same thing in reverse, no luck. My car is parked in my garage and I cannot get it out to take it to a repair shop. Does anyone know what may be wrong with it? Does anyone know what I could do to get it out of my garage??
Can I drive my automatic car if it only goes forward and not reverse?
You certainly “can” drive your car, with no reverse gear, but you probably shouldn’t. Aside from the fact that this severely limits your ability to safely park and maneuver, it could also indicate a serious problem with your transmission, which could leave you dangerously stranded.There actually were some early “microcars,” which were never equipped with reverse gears. To back up, the driver would exit the car and push or pull. The vast majority of motorcycles also don’t have reverse gears, even though some of them weigh over 800 pounds.However in an automatic, if something isn’t functioning correctly, it should be immediately inspected and repaired. If caught early, the repair could be relatively minor and inexpensive. If not, the entire transmission could fail, which could cost thousands of dollars to repair or replace.
Ford F150 Stalls when put in reverse?
there is a device on your truck called a gear shift position sensor [do not confuse this with the park/neutral safety switch] the position sensor serves to indicate to the computer what gear the truck is actually in the computer then decides what r.p.m. will give the smoothest idle. if stalling in reverse only , and you can "feather" the gas pedal to keep the engine from stalling. have the system scanned for code{s] then go to live data scroll down until the shift position sensor data shows up then put the truck in reverse if scan tool display does not indicate reverse selected but will indicate all the other gear positions replace the sensor and clear both the code and keep alive [learned] memory.
I have a 2000 Ford Taurus and trying to remove th back seat to clean under it but do not know how?
Back seats are held in by 2 or 3 metal clips that run along the front edge of the seat as well as a few metal prongs that snug up under the back of the seat. On the front edge of the seat, where your legs would go over, push down hard and push back towards the back of the car at the same time. Don't be afraid to climb in and put your body weight into the lean and push. On rare occasions a few cars have been equiped with pull tabs to release the clips under the seat. Double check where the seat meets the carpet in the rear feet area and see if any small plastic tabs stick out, if so pull. If a back seat hasn't been taken out for a while and the car has aged, it may be stuck some due to food, pop spilled, crayons in the way, etc. Once removed and cleaned out underneath. Scoot the back hooks on the seat under the back of the seat first, then line up the metal clips with the holes and push down hard. You should hear a snap sound knowing its locked back in place. You will hear a snap for each metal clip. Safety is No. 1 so ensure the seat is replaced properly. If you still have problems removing or replacing the seat, normally any detail shop, body shop, clean up lot tech at a dealership can help you re-install it. Those that know how to remove/replace it can do it in under a minute.
Why does my car jerk slightly when shifting into reverse?
all automatics do this. Regardless of gear the magnitude, the jerk is a function of drivetrain and suspension slop, clutch pressure and condition, clutch engagement setting, transmission fluid properties, idle speed.If the jerk is extreme and changes engine RPM by more than 100RPM, you certainly have a problem. beware, it’s easy to get either ripped off or spend heavily. Start by checking idle speed, then inspecting/changing fluid, then inspecting suspension. then check the transmission and drivetrain for slop, wear, damage, starting at a driveshaft shop.Your low mileage car could suffer from the hands of an abusive and jerky driver, a driver who spent long hours shearing transmission fluid stopped in traffic, or a transmission defect.Without mechanical service, you can reduce the jerk by not stepping on the brake as you change gears, and shifting to neutral every time you must idle for more than 20 seconds.
Is it normal for a car engine to move back and forth while changing gears?
Its ‘normal-ish’ to move a bit, not so normal if it moves a lot. Almost all, if not all of a car’s drivetrain (engine, transmission, rear differential) is actually sitting on mounts that usually have a flexible (rubber) component to them that absorbs shock in the drivetrain (from shifting etc). These mounts can be ‘motor mounts’, ‘transmission mounts’ and even differential mounts (or bushings). Since they are flexible, they do normally move a bit. With age, mounts get old, compressed and less flexible, or can break completely. Due to supporting the weight of the engine, motor mounts are more prone to wear/breaking over time.Generally speaking the mounts themselves are quite inexpensive, but the work involved in replacing them can be time consuming/difficult. I replaced the transmission mount on my car recently, which was easier than I expected, but the motor mounts would have been considerably more difficult for me to do by myself.
Rear drivers side brake locked up, any idea what might be causing it?
Hi there, I got home today and found that my 2005 renault clio's rear drivers side brake seems to have locked up. I released the hand brake and tried to reverse it out of the car park space but the wheel just stays locked up meaning the car wouldn't budge. I tried moving forwards and again it was stuck. I only bought the car a few weeks ago and I had it MOT'd and serviced when I bought it. Ive already payed a years insurance on it so I can't just take it back, I need to know how to fix it if I can. I have heard that it might be the caliper. My sister's boyfriend is a mechanic so he should be able to fix it for me but I'm looking for any suggestions as to what it might be and how to fix it, cheers, Dan
Ford 500 now it has a rough idle and it sound like it wants to stall. Help?
there are several things to check first. keeping in mind that ALL AIR ENTERING ENGINE MUST BE MEASURED by the mass air flow sensor. 1. the person who suggested the can of carb spray and the person who suggested the vacume leak are close to being on the right track. 2. clearly there is "false' [unmeasured] air entering your engine creating a 'lean condition' at idle. 3 before spending any money warm the engine, and let idle, raise hood [keeping in mind the moving parts[[don't put your hands or clothes near anything moving]]. listen closely for an abnormal hissing sound[note a normal hissing from the idle air control motor and throttle body area is o.k.. a vacume hose could have become dislodged on the back side of intake plenum. 4 if nothing is found in step 3. use a pair of pliers and squeeze shut the rubber hose going to the brake booster. if idle returns to normal the booster has a ruptured diaphragm and must be replaced. [this is an easy check but rather rare]. 5. the most likely cause is the condition of crankcase ventilation system and hoses. this system uses a positive crankcase vent valve, located under the intake manifold . [ rather difficult for the average owner to replace] the vacume supply hose to this valve [it is a combination of molded rubber hose and plastic pipe] is the most common culprit. this pipe and the valve are available from your local ford dealer. the rubber parts of this hose assembly get oil saturated collapse and split resulting in a large vacume leak. the proper way [if you choose to repair this yourself] is to remove the boot between the air filter housing and the throttle body,remove the throttle body disconnect the hose remains from the p.c.v. valve. now using a 5/8 inch spark plug socket [non flex] and a 6 inch extension [without a ratchet give the valve a 1/4 turn to the left [counter clockwise] remove valve with the socket [pulling strait out ] now install the new valve and new hose assembly. reinstall the [cleaned up] throttle body,wiring, cables,intake boot etc. previously removed in reverse order and start vehicle. it should now run normally.[note after warming up put on the emergency brake and the foot brake place in gear [D position] [with ALL ACCESSORIES TURNED OFF and just sit there for 5 minuets [this will allow the computer to relearn idle parameters]
Why does my car jerk?
It really depends on how hard the jerking is. Some people can be more sensitive than others on how hard they consider it to be. The reason I say this is because your Escape's automatic transmission has a torque converter clutch that applies and disengages upon certain parameters to give you the best mileage. The clutch can still be locked up because you are in overdrive or high gear (some times) and at a steady part throttle. At low speeds that can give you a slightly jerky feeling like on a manual transmission car. And sometimes the onboard computer might be hunting for the right parameters and can constantly engage and disengage the clutch. This is all normal. Now, if you've had the car for quite some time now, driving the same roads and it is just starting to happen then that could be a sign of some sort of defect. Like many have said so far here, your tranny fluid could be low as that is needed to move the torque converter clutch shuttle valve open and closed. Other than that it can be a misfire from the engine. Look at the tachometer when it happens. Does the needle blip as you feel the jerking? If so then it is an engine misfire which can be fuel or ignition and would need a mechanic to test things in order to diagnose.