06 Ford Fusion rattling noise?
Its coming from the ac compressor. Thats why its intermittent. The front clutch hub on the compressor probably needs to be replaced. This is on the passenger side of the engine.
What is causing my Ford Focus to make a noise for 5 minutes after turning the engine off?
This is pretty difficult to diagnose based on your description. What year is the car and which engine does it have? Can you give a description of the noise and what volume it is? What part of the car does the noise come from? To be blunt, I’m tempted to downvote the question for giving so little useful detail.However, there are a couple of things that come to mind.If it’s a turbo, most modern cars have a pump that will run to circulate coolant through the turbo so residual heat doesn’t cook the oil into a solid and cause blockages in the oil passages. Also, if it’s a gasoline engine, some newer cars will run a pump that puts pressure on the fuel system and fuel tank to check for leaks. This is for emissions purposes. Finally, I believe some of it might have to do with the high pressure fuel pump on direct injection cars.In any event, many modern cars have systems that continue to function for a few minutes after the car is shut down. If the sounds are fairly quiet whirring noises and they’re consistent every time you shut the car off, don’t worry about it.
My 2007 ford fusion makes a rattling sound near the engine what causes this?
could just be a loose skid plate, take a look around, grab/shake things till you find it its a metal plate bolted to the bottom of your car under the engine go to ford and get it looked at
My 2007 ford fusion makes a rattling noise only when I hit the gas what causes this?
Dead kitten in the engine
What does it mean if your starter is making a grinding noise?
Honda Accord /Civic :Why Starter Making Grinding Noise1.Flywheel should be suspect firstly.You need go ahead and climb back under your 2006 Honda Civic or 2007 Honda Accord and remove the access panel under the bell housing of the transmission. This will give you access to the flywheel. Using a flashlight you can inspect the teeth on the flywheel for any abnormal wear, then use a ½ inch ratchet and correct size socket for the crankshaft pulley bolt, and turn the engine clockwise. This will allow you to slowly inspect the hidden areas of the flywheel that could be damaged. Be sure to mark the flywheel with white out or a marker so you can verify when you start and end as you rotate. If at any time you feel uncomfortable doing this, please enlist the assistance of a certified mobile mechanic. After check ,if the flywheel is damaged ,it will need to be replaced.2.If you are unable to see any issues with the flywheel itself, then the problem may lay in the electrical components of the vehicle.Some of the most common electrical problems are corroded electrical connections, an undercharged or bad battery, or a malfunctioning component:bad neutral safety switch (automatic transmission),bad clutch safety switch (manual transmission),bad starter relay,bad starter solenoid,corroded electrical connections in the starting circuit,worn-out part in the starter motor or some other system component.For example,the ignition switch has failed to supply proper voltage to the starting circuit causing the starter solenoid to partially engage which can create a grinding noise .In this case,you could check the battery/relay/solenoid /ignition switch.If it’s a small problem,you could buy some aftermarket replacements then fix it.If you aren’t sure and don’t know how to do ,maybe a new starter at hexautoparts for your honda accord civic or a certified mechanic can get you back on the road quickly and safely.Anyway,if you hear a harsh or grinding noise as you try to crank up the engine, you may have a loose starter motor (mounting bolts), or a flywheel or pinion gear with broken or worn-out teeth. If the gears on the flywheel and pinion aren't able to mesh properly, all you hear is the sound of metal teeth clashing loudly.Hope that helps.
Why is my car shaking and the check engine light flashing?
A shaking vehicle AND flashing MIL ("check engine light") sound like the vehicle is misfiring on at least one cylinder. As @Anna Nguyen, @Brendan Sinclair, @Antoun Nabhan and others have said, it could be an ignition related problem. It could also be fuel-related. If one or more fuel injectors are clogged or dead, that would also cause a misfire in the affected cylinder(s). These are relatively cheap/easy things to check and fix.Other causes (which could be more complicated and more expensive) to fix include contaminated fuel, a bent intake or exhaust valve, a broken valve spring, a damaged piston/connecting rod, and on and on.I recommend getting a scan tool and checking the codes which are causing the MIL to light/flash and I also strongly recommend NOT driving the vehicle until the problem is fixed. If you continue to drive the vehicle as is, you will exacerbate the problem. Dumping unburned fuel into the exhaust due to a misfire will overheat and kill your catalytic converter. A more serious problem like a bent valve can eventually cause you to crater your engine (i.e.: completely destroy the engine).
Why did my car shake and the check engine light flash while stopped at a light?
What you experienced was almost certainly a misfire event and the cause may be recorded as a diagnostic trouble code (DTC) in the engine controller’s memory. Most failures that are significant enough to cause MIL illumination will record a trouble code and its environmental/ data information from the moment, even if the MIL is no longer lit. Onboard Diagnostics work constantly to keep the MIL off, looking for a reason to turn the CE light out if the condition hasn’t been seen again recently, eventually even erasing trouble codes if all’s good. I can only speculate on the nature of your event, but a thorough scan to retrieve codes and freeze frame data of the moment will often shed some light on the situation.Misfires come in many flavors, ranging from slight loss of performance in a single cylinder, to one or more holes being completely dead. Your description of shake at an idle implies a power imbalance, which usually involves complete loss of performance, but just one hole.Barring an at-home scanner being available, rolling the ignition key from LOCK to RUN three times, then leaving it in the RUN position at the end will initiate the customer code-read feature, spilling any matured codes stored in the PCM through the instrument cluster’s odometer window. All codes will be four digits in length, beginning with the letter P, such as P0123. DTC information can be found at OBD2-OBDII Engine Light Trouble Codes Definitions, Description and Repair Information online.One-trip failures - those that have not quite matured - will not be displayed in this feature, but will show up on a high-end scanner if present.If only a single cylinder misfire code is retrieved, pull the coil and spark plug to inspect for signs of flashover - black marks on the upper spark plug insulator and inner coil boot that will not scratch off with a fingernail. Flashover is pretty common on coil-on-plug ignition systems and the cure is to replace both the boot and spark plug together. Worn plugs tend to incite this sort of situation as spark will always seek the path of least resistance.If your DTC list includes an injector control circuit code that matches the cylinder of misfire, chances are good that the injector is at fault. The injector may test as completely normal when cooler, but will go to an open circuit once heated, either naturally or with a heat gun.
If you drive long enough with a flashing check engine light, what can happen?
The flashing CEL is indicative of a severe condition.In particular it can mean the introduction of unburned fuel into the exhaust stream ...which can lead to catastrophic failure of the catalytic converter (the word *BOOM* comes to mind).I suppose it never occurred to you to look in the owners manual to see what, specifically, the flashing CEL means with regard to your vehicle.In most cases it means quit driving the car, there is something seriously wrong that can cause serious problems and you need to get the car looked at ASAP.Or, you can be the poster person for the "Ignorance Is Bliss" society and keep driving your car ...until it's not ...."bliss" that is.
Battery light just came on in my car and steering wheel tightened up...?
I waS on my way home and my battery light came on so i turned off the air and the radio (thought maybe it would conserve some of the energy if the battery was dying. everytime i tried to turn a corner the steering wheel was sooo tight i had to force it to turn. I got home and turned the car off and back on a few times, turned the radio and the air back on to see if they still worked...everything was still working but the battery light was still on and the wheel was still locking up...does anyone know what would cause both of those things to happen at the same time?