Nissan Navara Tyre Help

Thanks for A2A.Ground clearence depends on the wheel radius, which in turn, depends more on the tire than the wheel rim - particularly with just 1 inch difference in the rim size.The tires are typically rated as xxx/xx Rxx (Eg. 275/75 R15). Here, the first xxx (275) is the width of the tire in mm. 275 mmThe second /xx (/75) is the aspect ratio of height to width in percentage. height of tire above rim = 275 x 0.75 = 206.25 mmThe third Rxx (R15) is the diameter of the rim in inches. 15 inches = 381 mmDiameter of the wheel = height of tire x 2 + rim diameter = 206.25 x 2 + 381 = 793.5 mmRadius of the wheel = 793.5/2 = 396.75 mmNow if you go for a larger rim and / or wider tires, you could chose the tire aspect ratio such that you can come close to or match the wheel radius.For example you want a 16-inch wheel in place of the 15-inch 275/75 R15 tire with the same width (275 mm). Let's work our way backwards.Diameter of the wheel = 793.5 = H x 2 + 406.4. Or H = 193.55 mm (H = height of tire above rim)Aspect ratio required = 193.55 / 275 = 0.70 or 70.Thus, a tire 275/70 R16 tire on a 16 inch rim would give you the same ground clearence as a 275/75 R15 tire on a 15 inch wheel rim.Here's one of the many free tire calculators available online if you don't want to do these calculations yourself.http://www.miata.net/garage/tire...Disclaimer: The static and dynamic rolling radius are slightly less than than free radius calculated above due to flattening of the tire at the contact patch. Thus the ground clearence would also be slightly lower.

First off you need to understand that spinning your wheels deliberately is apt to result in breaking things and spending a lot of money to fix them once broken. Burn outs EAT TIRES as well as axles, clutches, and transmissions. If a cop catches you doing a burn out on a public road, expect an expensive ticket.Now having said this much, if your car is powerful enough, just put it in drive, and floor the gas, and you will get your burn out. It’s much more satisfactory to play this game with a rear wheel drive car with a front engine. It has less traction.You can hold the brakes and get a more impressive burn out, which will not do much harm to the rear brakes , considering that you are destroying tires anyway, and maybe the transmission or engine mounts etc as well.The front brakes are always the ones that grip the hardest, so light pressure on the brake pedal is enough.If the road surface is slippery it really helps. A hard traveled road will always have an oily film on it unless there has been a recent hard rain. Skinny tires help. Over inflating the tires helps.If you have to, you can rev the engine and THEN put the shifter in D. It might go in gear, and give you the burn out you want, or it might not go in gear, or the transmission might eat itself, meaning you need a new transmission.If you want to cheat a little and have the opportunity to do so, rub an oily rag on your tire tread, but be aware that this might cause you to have an accident. An oily tire will spin and smoke like crazy.There are other tricks.

Yes. But let me qualify this.Less than 10 miles at speeds under 50 mph to the shop to get it fixed, you should probably be fine.Driving 300 miles at highway speed? NO.Storytime: My brother and I rushed replacing a wheel bearing on my 92 accord wagon at his house in Peoria Illinois, we were on a time crunch, totally messed it up. I drove to the Quad Cities and then Milwaukee well over 200 miles while this wheel bearing was failing. It got pretty loud and the wheel was vibrating pretty bad. We made it home to Milwaukee, I took it into the shop the next day, the mechanic looked at it and asked me if I replaced it in a hurry without a press. He knew right away.Moral of the story, get that wheel bearing fixed ASAP. It takes a lot of force from steering and it is always spinning when you drive. Even if it isn’t dangerous that steering wheel vibration is pretty tough on the hands and wrists.

There are two common causes of steering wheel vibration or shaking. 1. Front wheel brake disc out of true (buckled), so that steering interference occurs only when the brakes are applied (the disc mechanically forces the deflection through the wheel and steering mechanism, culminating in steering wheel deflection).2. Front wheel or tyres out of balance (usually tyres) and this causes feedback of the resultant wheel deflection via the steering mechanism.Why no imbalance at speeds outside of this speed-band? This could be because tyre balance falls within reasonable, but not optimal bounds and as rotational forces are frequency based, one finds that a frequency harmonic can develop at a specific speed band creating imbalance within that band only. At speeds outside this band harmonics are canceled out by other rotational forces.i would like to see the pure explanation in engineering terms, mine being a lay view.

Here in Belgium, it seems to vary by the different regions, mainly Brussels, Flanders and Walloon. This is all based on my observation.In Brussels, at the place where I work, that part is mainly Francophone, I see Toyota C-HR, Toyota Auris Touring, Nissan Juke, and Nissan Qashqai a lot. Mainly Toyota and Nissan as you can probably tell.In the Flanders, I live in a town just 5 minutes away from Brussels, I see mainly Toyota Hilux, Nissan Navara, Nissan X-trail, and Honda Civic.In the Walloon, I don’t live or have much association over there, but I do visit Namur every now and then just to enjoy the scenic view of the natural landscape. As for Japanese cars, I’d say the Walloon seems to have more Japanese cars than the Flanders. They drive Japanese pickups (old and new), like the Mitsubishi L200, Toyota Hilux and Nissan Navara. They also have a lot of Mazdas and even old Japanese cars from the 1990s still running (subarus, Mitsubishi, Daihatsu, etc…). They also appear to have some likes towards the Mitsubishi Pajero, and Nissan Patrol.

If you are only driving in the city you will likely be able to count the days with snow on the road on one hand.You will want to get 4 sreel wheels and 4 snow tires for winter driving. The best inexpensive snow tires I have ever had were only available at Canadian Tire. Goodyear Nordic snow tires. I bought a new 2008 Pontiac G5 GT 2 door with a set of 17 inch pirelli summer performance tires. Day after I picked the car up we got 4 inches of snow, in a temperature of 30 degrees F. I tried to drive the car down our unplowed road, and even though it was downhill, I managed to get stuck as soon as I got out of the driveway.Went to Canadian Tire the next day(roads were plowed) and had them install 4 steel wheels and 4 of those Goodyear Nordic snows. It snowed a couple of days later and I went out just see if it was better. Car was incredible in snow. Never drove a car better in snow. I had an 86 Jeep Cherokee Limited 4wd and this G5 GT was easier to drive in snow. They are very good on ice as well. They wear fast on dry hot paveme t, so get them off early March.You may find it just as cheap to acquire a winter car.

I’d say the pad you found was discarded or not thrown in the garbage can after brake pad replacement was performed on a vehicle. For the pad to work it’s way out of a brake caliper is nearly impossible. The pad is pinned in place by 2 fasteners. If the fasteners somehow vibrated loose and came out the pad is still sandwiched between the caliper and brake rotor making it impossible to fall out anyway. I’ve seen disc brakes worn so bad that the pads metal backing plate wore through a rotor like a grinder, grinding the rotor to nothing to the point that the calipers pistons contacted each other. Needless to say doing so had to be extremely loud and extremely stupid to the person driving the vehicle endangering the lives of others as well as himself and or his passengers. And if seeing the vehicle braking as such at night time would have been like watching a Fourth of July giant sparkler going off under the wheel of the car lol. Good luck and hope this helps.

Because they are no longer ‘spare’ tyres, but ‘get you home or to a tyre shop’ emergency tyres. They are not intended to run as normal use tyres, unlike the spares of old.Many manufacturers don’t even give you those either…sometimes they just provide a can of tyreweld, other times the emergency spare is an optional extra.My car has steel rims and a conventional spare, but I have actually never used the spare in an emergency in the seven years I have owned the car. I have always managed to inflate a tyre with a slow puncture and just get it repaired or replaced at my local tyre shop.In fact. the tyre on my ‘spare’ would technically be illegal if fitted to the car and presented for it’s annual MOT test as the tyre is factory original from 2002 and has gone past the end of it’s ‘use by’ date stamp.It sits in my back yard to save me weight and space in the car.The arguement about tyre rotation just doesn’t wash these days. You would never try to get 5/4th of the use out of all five tyres by rotating them.On a front wheel drive car, you take the rear pair off and move them to the front. Tyres are directional these days so if the tyre was left rear, it becomes left front and if your tyre were right rear, it becomes right front. Hard to say with the spare whether you will need it as a left or a right tyre so it should remain as a spare and not left on the car.I always thought that on a front wheel drive car, the fronts are more important as they handle both drive and steering and wear out quicker than the rears.In actual fact, the rear tyres are the most important (and wear much less) so if the fronts get worn to near their legal limit, you should move the rears to the front and put a pair of new tyres on the rear.You should never just replace one tyre on an axle. If you do, then put the slightly mismatched pair on the front, never the rear. Counterintuitive, perhaps, but based on years of research by tyre companies and the independent TRRL laboratory boffins.