Maytag Oven Range MER5570. No power to oven after power outage, elements still work. Any suggestions?
Same questions as Elizabeth. But let's assume you do mean the top coils are working & the oven elements are not. Your electronic control board may have been toasted or it may have just gotten "confused." Try disconnecting the power by turning off the breakers for the range. Wait 10 minutes. Turn the breakers back on. Does it work now or are you getting any error codes, such as E02? If you get any codes, post those along with the complete model and serial numbers.
Can I power a 240 volt (15 amp) stove on a 208 volt supply?
Good Lord...I'm not even going to say anything... Standard appliance ratings allow for a 10% +/- on voltage. This means, something that is rated to run on 240 volts can run on 10%, or 24 volts in this case, more or less. 240 - 24 is 216, obviously not within the 208 volts you say you have. 208 volts does come from a three phase system. However, just because that is the building supply doesn't mean you have three phase in your apartment. Oft times, three phase power is brought in in order to run mass quantities of motors more efficiently. You still only have 2 phases in your apartment which may give you 208-215 volts. Will the oven run on it? Yes. Will it slightly reduce the output of the burners? Only a little. Will you notice it? No. Hope this helps.
Can I use other burners on cracked glass top stove?
technically yes but don't cook big items like big pots of stew or use heavy pans and if that crack(s) spreads to within 6-8 inches from another burner don't use that burner either, some have complex sensors that detect heat that readings will be a lil off so keep an eye on it for the first week...and the last item which is the NUMBER ONE THING TO LOOK FOR!!! (yes I am screaming this very loudly at you..I apologize but neccessery ) DO NOT LET ANY WATER (OR ANY LIQUID)BOIL OVER INTO THE CRACK(S) because its 220V and if you do it could and probally will be very bad for you but as long as you do that you should be fine, another thing that you can do on your part is keep the burner heat level as low as you can to cook ur meal, kinna gotta nurse it till you get a new one. Find a good Magic Permanent Paint marker thats visible on ur stove and put good size dots on the tips of the cracks to see how fast their spreading...If they are spreading faster than you can afford them to go to the hardware store and ask the tool guys to find you a decent (1/4) drill bit for glass(smaller bits usually break with novice tool users, but can be used). Turn the circuit breaker or fuse off, and only with (GOOD) variable speed drill (cordless preferred) slowly NOT pushing hard drill a hole at the very ends of every crack but but don't go past the glass, be very careful of that because you may hit something under it. Of-course you shouldn't but times are tough and u have to have a stove till you can replace it especially if you have kids. So as long as you follow those few guidelines you should be just fine. Just keep a watchful eye for a while and look for the breaker of fuse in the box and make sure ur able to get to it and kick it off anytime while cooking, just in case for safety, but doubt you will need it, sorry my answer is so long but I understand your predicament and don't wanna just say no you cant. I went to apprenticeship school for a year for electricity but that mainly covers circuit boxes,meters,and Industrial high voltage factory motors, and the power requirements of appliances. NOT the workings of the actual appliance itself. If you smell anything that don't smell right (electrical burning, plastic burning, etc.) you should turn off the breaker for it and consider that stove dead (period).
My power went out and now my electric jennair oven/stove has no power, and my bathroom light /fan don't work after resetting the circuit breaker. Can anyone help?
If you have a gas stove then it only needs a 110 volt outlet for the electronic controls. That outlet might be on a GFCI circuit which could have popped when the power went out. The same with the bathroom light and fan. The problem with that is it might not be the outlet that the appliance is plugged into. The outlet may be downstream from the GFCI outlet that controls the circuit and there are probably two circuits in your kitchen so you might have to hunt a little. Look for an outlet that has a button on it. Even if it looks okay, press the button. If you feel it pop up, that was not the GFCI you were looking for. If the button resets you should be good to go. If you don't see any GFCIs outlets it is still possible that the circuit has GFCI protection. That protection would be on the breaker that controls the circuit.
How do I reset My Whirlpool Stove?
Try and unplug it from the wall for about 15 minutes and then plug it back in. If that doesn't work, then there may be a blown fuse and you would need someone to come and repair it for you.
No power at all for GE Spectra oven #JBP48WOB4WW?
The range should have its own 220/240 volt circuit breaker probably 40 or 60 amps and located near the top of your electric panel. It generally will be black in color and contain 2 throws held together with a metal strap. When tripped it will be in its center position, turn all the way to off and then to on to reset. Did you check this breaker?
Kenmore oven not working but stove does?
There normally is a fuse bank on electric stoves. Sometimes they are located in the drawer below the oven, other times they are in the back guard. If you call Sears Service the tech. will be able to tell you where the fuse bank is located. However there may be more than a blown fuse in the stove. Something caused your circuit breaker to trip, so by all means check out the in stove fuses, but make sure the oven is OFF before you replace blown fuse, then if every thing looks OK, turn the oven on before you close the fuse bank on the stove. If the breaker trips again you should call Sears Service to have one of their technicians inspect the stove.
My Range trips the circuit breaker, now I think the breaker is dead. Call an electrician?
It does sound like the breaker is failing, 12.5kw is 52 amps, but a 4% overload should take a long time if ever to trip unless there are other contributing factors. Unfortunately the wire probably isn't large enough to increase the size of breaker. It could be a loose connection at the breaker, at the receptacle or at the cord connection of the range, the breaker termination would be most suspect. You shouldn't need to to spend a lot on an electrician, you could call a couple of contractors, ask them to quote you a price for a to check connections at the all three places, and install a new breaker, they will need to know the brand of panel. You could get an amp meter (actually called an ammeter) to see how many amps it is drawing when it trips, just clamp it around one wire in the panel. Furnishing this information to the rental management company may help spur them into action. Another point that occurs to me is have you asked the management company to have this "fire hazard" inspected "in writing"? Florida Landlord Tenant Law (83.60) requires 7 days notice in writing before allowing you can get repairs done yourself and deduct required repairs from your rent.
I have a 60 amp breaker and am installing a 50 amp appliance. Do I need to change the breaker out to a 50 amp?
The short answer is no, you do not need to change your breaker, assuming the wire to the appliance is properly sized for a 60 amp circuit. There seems to be some major confusion here, so a few points to clarify. 1) The size of the breaker has nothing to do with the amount of electricity going to the appliance. The appliance "pulls" the amount of energy it needs, there is no pushing based upon the size of the breaker. 2) The function of the breaker is to protect the wire and connections leading up to the appliance. As long as the wire and the connections are properly sized for a 60 amp circuit, the 60 amp breaker is appropriate. 3) Breakers do not protect against a shock hazard. A fatal shock requires only a fraction of an amp for a fraction of a second. A regular breaker requires a significant overload for a much longer period of time to trip. That is why circuits that are a high shock risk require GFCI breakers. This is a hard concept for people to get, but it shouldn't be as most circuits in a home have breakers that are much larger than the load that they will see. Do you have a 150 milliamp (that's 0.15 amp) circuit to plug your cell phone charger into? What about a 3 amp circuit for your computer? I don't either. Generally these types of things are plugged into 15 amp outlets often on a 20 amp breaker (which is also just fine, but an answer for another question). The point is as I stated earlier, the breaker protects the circuit, not the device(s) plugged or wired into them. Your cooktop is actually another example of this situation in itself. Although it is a "50 amp" appliance, you will probably never pull that much through it. While it is considered a single appliance, it is actually a collection of several different devices (separate induction coils, controls, maybe a fan and/or light) that each pull only a fraction of the 50 amps. Now, if after all of this you feel better with a 50 amp breaker, go right ahead. It will not hurt anything other than if you change cooktops again later you might have to change back to the larger breaker. I suppose you will be out a few dollars as well, but not really significant.