Can I use an RC car receiver for a quadcopter?
if you dont mind seriously limited control, ie, anything more than up and down and maybe yaw, sure.you can have all the props tilted to provide forward movement. constant forard movement, like a plane. yaw is steering.so with a throttle and steering, you can fly…in a limited manner. no roll or pitch available. no hovering.then you can just let the auto stabiliser do the hard bit of keeping it level.it sounds pretty stupid though. maybe fun if you know what you are doing, otherwise. stupid.never tried running my flight control from just two channels. not sure it would even let me turn it on! now i have to have a go… probably have to modify the code and reflash it to not throw errors with no roll or pitch control.generally, you need four channels minimum. five if you have a auto level switch or a controller that requires fifth channel to even arm the motors.some RC car controllers do have a third channel. generally for a reverse control on nitro cars. its either on or off. no proportional control. could use that for arming/autolevel. useless for anything else.the receiver will take all three channels from a transmitter on the same frequency though.multi channel radio setups are cheap.noone wants their old MHz ones anymore. they give better range, can penetrate trees and walls, and are generally built tough. no glitching. no silly computer crap to program. just switch them on and fly. the only issue on quads is that the aerials are about a metre long and cant be wound up. so you have this wire dangling out the back. do some dead stick falls followed by full throttle recoveries and you chop your aerial off. oops.i have a box of 2.4GHz radios here. all dead from one thing or another. waste of damn money. some are DAMN EXPENSIVE.yet my 40 yr old futaba and JR work flawlessly. why would i want another GHz system?
My remote car starter sucks for range. Will adding 2 - 3 volt batteries instead of 1 extend the range?
It more likely the antenna wire in the car that's the problem. People stuff them down where they can't pick up the remote signal.
The wires of my receiver circuit of a Rc car have come out from their soldering points. How can I locate the points?
Ordinarily the only way is if you can see where the wires originally lay, due to the lengths of the wire ends and perhaps the impressions in the solder.Such a disconnection should not occur, if the toy had been well made. Coming apart in this manner suggests that the overall car is of very low quality. Most likely, repairing it will lead only to a failure at another point.As a guess, one might speculate that you made the original purchase because it was favorably priced, in comparison with other RC cars. Now you are seeing why it was inexpensive — because it was, apparently, cheaply and shoddily constructed.You may need to conclude that you have been swindled, and buy a replacement. You probably should not buy any product from that manufacturer again.
What prevents RC toys from interfering with one another?
With lower quality products, which generally operate in the sub 100 MHz range, there is nothing preventing radio interference. This can be seen with cheap R/C car controllers, which can take control of the another car if they are operating on the same frequency. When these same frequencies are used for more hobby grade products, especially in long range R/C plane groups, users generally have to coordinate who can operate on which frequency, however their transmitters and receivers allow them change their frequencies.Once you move up to higher frequencies, such as the widely used 2.4GHz (used for r/c cars, drones, and wifi), things get more interesting. I may be wrong about the exact implementation, but from my understanding, the frequencies of this speed can be divided into sub frequencies, and then the transmitter and receiver will rapidly, and randomly alternate between these sub frequencies together. The end result is that there is any interference on any specific sub frequency is short enough that it can be filtered out, and the primary signal carries on, mostly uninterrupted.
What would cause a popping/crackling sound in one of my stereo speakers?
Most popping or crackling sounds in an audio system come from a bad or dirty connections. Sometimes they do come from a faulty unit or component, but in most cases it is a connection issue. Whether that connection is in the connectors, wiring, circuit board or components, or even just a bad solder joint, wherever that connection is, finding it becomes the main issue to tackle. There are some relatively simple methods that can be used to locate it.First identify which part of your audio system has the issue. The fact that it is only in one of your speakers is a huge help in identifying what might be causing the noise. If both channels had the same noise, this method would not work. You can easily identify the source by swapping the channels and seeing if the noise moves or stays on the same channel.For example, swap the channels the speakers are connected to. Does it persist on the same speaker or does transfer to the other? After swapping, if it remains with the same speaker ( other channel), then it is the speaker connections (or the speaker itself) that are problematic. If it is now on the same channel (other speaker), it is somewhere in the system, before the speaker connections. You can continue to swap different components back and forth, swapping channels and work back to where the source and component is identified.Sometimes just connecting and reconnecting the cables and components solves the problem, as the connection is improved. Good luck!One component that usually becomes noisy that way (more of a crackling sound than a popping one)is a potentiometer (also called a ‘pot’, normally volume controls, bass-treble-balance controls, etc.). These can be easily identified by rotating or sliding the controls as the case may be, and listening for the noise. These can be cleaned with the right solvents or sprays.Worst case scenario is a failed or failing component such as a transistor, capacitor, resistor, solder joint (actually solder joints are relatively easily repaired, just identifying the problematic one is the challenge!), etc.Once you have identified the part or unit in the system that is causing the noise, then it will be easier to decide how best to correct the issue (replace or repair).
Neighbor with loud RC car- is there a way to interfere w/the signal?
Yes, but you would need to know the frequency of the receiver... and it would be expensive! You could try to purchase another remote for that car that uses the same frequency. That way, you can "take control" the next time he is out there and "accidentally" turn it into oncoming traffic. ;-)
Why is my RC car driving on its own?
Are you sure it’s R/C? Not just pull-back and go? Or one of those toys that drives around randomly to amuse babies and terrify the cats & dog? Maybe just out-and-out possessed?Just kidding. My sarcastic side is becoming increasingly dominant in my typing. (Join the Dark Side. We’re Punny!)If it is:Infra-Red => Make sure you only use it indoors or at night. Sunlight will cause interference (and yes, it still has effect on cloudy days).Between 27 and 49 Mhz => These are the two frequencies all R/C toys from Wal-Mart, Target, and Walgreens tend to operate on, and each toy uses very similar if not the same encoder chips on it’s signal. This means anyone else with the same frequency controller can interfere with your car while they are in range, and this is even more so if their controller has a higher power signal, or fresher batteries than yours. Solutions? Get a better, hobby grade car, or wait an hour and then see if the interference has ceased. If it has one, switch the “Channel” or “Frequency” setting on your remote and car to change the encoding and (hopefully) bypass the interference.2.4 Ghz or higher => Congratulations! You have most likely got a Hobby-Grade car. This means you can probably “Bind” the car to a specific remote, and the car will only respond to that set of inputs. If you have not done so, follow all the instructions on the included booklet to finish this procedure. If it doesn’t have this function, then interference is your best bet. You can wait it out, or take your car elsewhere and see if it works. I’d take it to a hobby shop to see what is wrong with it.If nothing else works, try to get a refund, and maybe look at online reviews and such before buying a different, better car.
How do you program a remote keyless entry for a 2000 pontiac grand prix?
Get inside the car and close all the doors. Remove the MALL PRG fuse from the fuse block inside the glove box. Turn the key to the accessory position. This next step is very important! Turn the key to the "off" position and then back to the accessory position within 1 second. Open and then shut the driver's door. If you have done everything correctly you will have heard a chime sound. Press and hold both the lock and unlock buttons on your remote for 15 seconds. If you have another remote program those by doing the above step. After you have finished take the ignition key out of the lock and reinstall the fuse.
Why does my garage door open on its own, and how do I prevent this from happening?
That’s a toughie. Generally, garage doors open because they think you hit your remote. Oh, you didn’t? Then it probably heard some other RF ( Radio Frequency ) signal. Might be another remote in the neighborhood, although the garage door is only supposed to respond to yours. Might be an unrelated, powerful transmitter that is overwhelming the garage door’s primitive receiver. Say, a radio ham or a CB’er, although such are rare these days. Another possibility is loose connections at the button in your garage. Or a loose connection in your remote. Or electrical transients at the supply to the opener.What I would do - make sure that all the connections are tight and secure. Look for patterns in when it opens. Same time each day?I had the opposite problem - my wife complained that the door was not reliably opening. Turned out that I had installed a pair of fancy LED lightbulbs in the case of the opener - and those lightbulbs were generating RF hash that confused the receiver, so it couldn’t hear my wife’s remote.Your best bet might be to call tech support at the manufacturer of the garage door opener.